Baltic Encounters

Liepaja

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June 11, 2000

We crossed the border into Latvia today and we are staying in Liepaja. Liepaja is a costal town with many factories, which is where much of the town finds employment. It isn't as much of an urban city as Vilnius was, it 's more of a rural coastal town. When we first arrived to the town we attended the rock opera "Kaupens, My Dear." This was a big deal in Latvia, everybody turned out to see it. The University of Washington first year Latvian language class had translated the opera into English for us as a class project, but it was still pretty difficult to follow along. Nonetheless, I thoroughly enjoyed being able to experience that part of their culture. After the performance we headed to the old Jewish part of town from back before the war where the Latvian "Atbalss" choir hosted a welcoming party for us. It was hard to look at the huge, extravagant mansions that once used to be in the wealthy part of town. Now, the abandoned houses were dilapidated and vacant, with burned out windows, crumbling wooden shutters, cracked plaster, and bowed roofs. Many looked like haunted houses from old cheesy Hollywood movies. All that was left were the remnants of a once thriving and magnificently beautiful and luxurious part of town. I think this was the first time that it hit me what the war and the oppression had done to these people, it was like a ghost town, but it was so beautiful.

Residential area
Residential area
Seaport

Our bus pulled up to one of the houses and we got out and inside was the Latvian Choir that had hosted a welcoming party for us, it was very similar to the Lithuanian choir get- together, with song, dance, food, drink and games (except no kissing this time). It was a lot of fun, these people really know how to party!

After a while we all decided to walk to the beach to actually see the Baltic Sea! It was only a few blocks away and we all needed the fresh air after all that dancing in the house. It was nighttime by now and the only lights were from the moon and stars, I could hardly see where I was going until we made it to the beach. The sand was white and you could see practically all the way across the water to Sweden! The moon illuminated the white sand and water and everything appeared to glow. We played around in the sand and took pictures that probably won't develop due to the blackness. We all joined hands, both choirs, and got in a big circle and sang songs to each other for hours.

On the Baltic Sea beach

June 12, 2000
Today we did a lot of sight seeing here in Liepaja. We visited the naval base and went on a tour of the mansion that used to house the Czar. It was huge and has been turned into a museum of sorts. We also saw what was left of the barracks, most of them were destroyed in the war, same deal as the houses, impressive abandoned buildings. In the middle of the base was this huge Russian Orthodox Temple. It was vibrantly colored and ornamented with gold and purple, reds, yellows, and blues. We went inside for a look but this priest came out and got very angry with us and made us leave. Some of us were wearing shorts and I guess that isn't allowed. So we left and when we apologized he replied in Russian, "God can only forgive you, I cannot!"
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Czar's House
Orthodox Church

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