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In October 2000, I went to live in Tartu, Estonia as a Fulbright Fellow at Tartu University. I was researching a dissertation on the Russian Romantic poet Zhukovsky, who came to Tartu in the early 19th century when the town was called Dorpat (or Derpt). At that time Tartu University was German-speaking, which made it unique within the Russian Empire. Today it’s the flagship university of an independent Estonia. Its multicultural history and long tradition make it among the best (in my opinion, the best) in the Baltics. Toward the end of the school-year, I took a vacation on the Baltic island of Saaremaa.
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