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My companion Laine introduced me to Professor Ants Ilus, who was our host on the island of Saaremaa. Laine often told me that Professor Ilus (whose last name means “beautiful”) was one of the world’s eternally youthful people. As president of the local Whiskey Club, he wore a tiny carpenter’s level on his lapel, so he would know when to stop if he partied too long. Laine and I spent a long weekend at his rustic farmhouse while workers put a new roof on the barn.
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