Maxwell, John S. The Czar, His Court and People. London: Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1848. (243 pages)

This travel log, written by John Maxwell and published by the esteemed Richard Bentley, whose Bentley & Sons had published other travel logs by Americans as well as work by Charles Dickens, details the journey of an American traveling through the Russian Grand Duchy (Russian Empire) in the 1840’s. During Maxwell’s visit, Emperor Nikolai I was instating measures to control his subjects by restricting the curriculum in universities, enforcing strict censorship laws and persecuting any religious or nationalities that did not support the ideals of Russia. Maxwell is not pleased with this environment and his writings are aimed at validating this bias.

His journey by steamer also takes him to Norway and Sweden where he gives very descriptive details of 19^th century Stockholm with its lakes, canals and royal residences. Thirty English miles into the Baltic is the first Russian fortress on the island nation Åland, which was part of Sweden until it became part of the Russian Grand Duchy in 1809. He then travels across the Bay of Finland into Reval (Tallinn), Esthonia (Estonia).
Maxwell comments that Reval has long since lost its importance as a town. It is best known for its beaches in the summertime and as a naval depôt for Russia. The town is populated with ethnic Russians, Baltic Germans and many Estonians. The city is very poor. The peasantry, namely, the Estonians, still wears sheepskins and wears their hair long and uncombed. "The Esthonians", he writes, "in language, looks, and manners, resemble the old Finns." (Page 48) Maxwell also notes that even though the entire of Estonia has been conquered at one time or another, one must read the chronicles of the conquerors to learn what had happened. During his visit, Maxwell comments how the Russians removed the German Lutheran professors from the University of Dorpat, (the University of Tartu in Tartu, Estonia today) and replaced them with Russian professors. Now the young nobles from Livonia (Northern Latvia and Southern Estonia), Courland (Western Latvia), and Esthonia (Northern Estonia) would be learning the Russian way.

Leaving Reval by another steam ship, he travels to St. Petersburg. While here, Maxwell retells the story of the Varangian Rossi, a Scandinavian people, who conquered the Slavi people of the Baltic regions. He notes that the Russ, or Russian, probably came from this people. To validate his story, he cites as evidence of trading between this region and Arabia coins and monumental inscriptions that had been found. (It is not clear if Maxwell learned this information from speaking with Russians or if he has read this information from another primary or secondary source.)

Maxwell travels 1,000 miles, by ship, coach, and sledge into the interior of the Russian Empire. He describes exotic tribes who follow pagan rites and speak ancient languages. He finally crosses the Dwina River (the Daugava River in Latvian) and eventually enters the old dukedom of Lithuania. As he passes through Lithuania on his way to Poland, Maxwell recounts the turbulent history of the country and how it was a battle ground for Poles, Russians and most recently the French. He comments that, "The soil of Lithuania is productive, but a more wretched country it is impossible to imagine." (Page 214) His last night in Lithuania is in the town of Kovno (Kaunas, Lithuania). Here he encounters a large Jewish community. He learns of the plight of the Jew in the Russian Grand Duchy and the persecutions and exiles they face. (DQ 2005)