Golden Fleece, Panther Pelt, Rose Revolution: Under the Skin of Today's Georgia
2008 Exploration Seminar in Georgia

Program Director: James West, Mary Childs & Allison Dvaladze
Dates of Instruction: August 25 to September 19, 2008

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The Place and the Program: Mythical and mystifying, Sakartvelo (Georgia), on the southern slopes of the Great Caucasus Mountains, stretches from the subtropical Black Sea coast to the wine country of Kakheti, boasting ancient traditions and tantalizing tales. Proclaimed home of the world’s first vintners, and one of the oldest human habitation sites outside of Africa, there is little this land, at the crossroads of empires and time, has not witnessed. Ancient Greeks traded in its towns of Dioscuri and Vani; one of the best-known Greek mythological characters Medea, who helped Jason steal the Golden Fleece, was a native of Colchis, the western lands of present day Georgia, and Prometheus was chained to its mountain peaks. The Roman Empire maintained outposts here to help fight its wars against the Parthians of ancient Persia. In medieval times, the Georgian kingdoms were caught between Orthodox Byzantium and the Persian Empire. During the 12th and 13th centuries Georgia enjoyed a period of peace and unity; its culture flourished in the aura of the Persian Empire, and its national epic, The Knight in the Panther Skin, was written. Its economy was fueled by the Silk Road, the trade route that linked China to Venice, and the country enjoyed a renaissance of knowledge and culture a century before that in the West. Unfortunately, its cultural centers were overrun by the Mongols, and fell into decline. The kingdoms of Georgia were then divided between the Ottoman and Persian Empires until they sought Russian protection in 1801.  In the 19th century, Georgia became a Romantic destination that inspired some of the most moving Russian literature of the time. As a Soviet ‘National Republic’ in the 20th century, Georgia became a haven for Soviet elites and intelligentsia, and home to a remarkable flowering of literature and cinema.  
           
Today, an emerging democracy of 4.5 million citizens, Georgia remains at the crossroads, its nascent democracy under fire, and locked in a feud with Russia, while a darling to the West. Despite civil and separatist wars in the early 1990’s, and political and economic stagnation until the Rose Revolution of 2003, Georgian’s passion for celebrating life and the glory of the Tamada have never wavered. It enjoys a vibrant culture, but one that is little known or understood outside of its borders. Georgia is one of the economically poorer of the former Soviet republics (60% unemployment), yet it has been voted one of the most progressive, eager to modernize and democratize in hopes of joining NATO and the European Union. Today Georgia is looking to the West for alliances and aid, and is a strategic ally of the US, while Russia is still trying to hold it within its sphere of influence. Few countries offer the opportunity to witness and study the trials and tribulations of the transition to democracy and market economy that Georgia does today.
             
In this Seminar, we will explore Georgia’s history and culture as the key to understanding its current state of transition:  How have its language and culture survived so remarkably intact, given its tragic and turbulent history? What makes Georgian national identity so strong and its culture so appealing? How is Georgia managing to maintain its traditions and sense of national identity and yet interface with the West?  How do citizens feel about the ongoing political and economic transition?

Accommodations and Activities: 
We will live in homestays during the weeks we are in Tbilisi, and in guest houses or homestays for field trips. Participants will interact with Georgian peers and be encouraged to engage in informal dialogues about what it is like to live in a country undergoing such rapid transformation, and again, at the crosshairs of the crossroads:  how are Georgian families holding on to their national traditions despite such transformations?  How are the different generations coping with the changes happening around them?  How are these changes being expressed in their immediate culture, in art, literature, music, and film of the day?  How do they feel about their future?

While in Tbilisi, students will observe and hear from specialists and practitioners in the fields of history, archeology, political science, civil society, the arts and more. There will be ample time to explore the old city, observe a society in flux, experience the quintessential Georgian feast, or Supra, and contemplate what constitutes the Georgian identity. Participants will keep journals of their observations, be given weekly interpretive assignments, and complete a final project in an area of their special interest.

Visits to cultural sites in and around Tbilisi will include the major museums housing the country’s treasures, performances of traditional Georgian dance and polyphonic singing and local festivals. A week-long trip to the Black Sea coast will take us to Sarpi, on the border with Turkey; Batumi, ancient Roman outpost and current oil transport town; Vani, former capital of Ancient Colchis; and Kutaisi, a cultural center during the middle ages. Day trips from Tbilisi will include Mtskheta, the old capital of Georgia; Gori, Stalin’s hometown; Uplistsikhe, and Davit Gareji, sites of cave cities and monasteries; Mt. Kazbegi and Ananuri Castle, which lie north towards the Russian border; to the Medieval town of Sighnaghi; and Telavi in Kakheti, famous for its wines and the burial place of St. Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia in 330 AD.

Preparation: Monthly pre-departure meetings will be held in spring 2008, to provide background knowledge about Georgian culture and history. Film will be used as much as possible to access the culture, with supplementary readings in English. There is no foreign language requirement for the course, as the Georgian language is difficult, and English is now widely spoken; however, students will be encouraged to familiarize themselves with the Georgian alphabet and to learn a few basic phrases. Knowledge of Russian is useful. Students from all majors and disciplines are encouraged to apply.

Participants will earn 5 credits of SISRE 490, or CHID 471 Europe Study Abroad (I&S), REECAS 499, or CompLit 320; Georgian 490. Participants should check with their advisors to determine how these credits can count towards departmental requirements.

Student Costs:
$ 2,475 Program fee
$ 200 IPE Fee
Additional costs include: Return airfare to Georgia, insurance, immunizations, personal spending money, some lunches (12), and any personal communication costs (email/phone).

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