Golden Fleece, Panther Pelt, Rose Revolution:
Under the Skin of Today's Georgia
2009 Exploration Seminar in Georgia
Program Directors: James West & Mary Childs
Dates of Instruction: September 1 - 25, 2009
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 The Place and the Program: In August, 2008, Georgia riveted international attentionwhen "frozen"
conflicts in its two separatist regions, Abkhazia and South Ossetia, boiled
over. Following weeks of escalating rhetoric between Russia and Georgia
regarding the separatist Georgian territories of Abkhazia and South Ossetia,
war broke out in August between Ossetian militia, Russian forces and
Georgian forces. The fighting stopped within a week, but the conflict and
the war over the war are unresolved. Russia recognized the independence of Abkhazia and South Ossetia and while it has pulled its troops out of
uncontested Georgian territory, Russia maintains troops in the break-away
territories. As of December 3, 2008, NATO decided to resume talks with
Russia following its largest military attack outside its borders since the
fall of the Soviet Union, while also promising Georgia eventual NATO
membership.
In our Seminar we will explore Georgia’s history and culture as keys to understanding its current state of crisis and transition:
- What makes Georgian national identity so strong and its culture so appealing?
- Why is Russia so intent on claiming and retaining Georgia in its sphere of influence?
- How has Georgia’s culture survived so remarkably intact, given its turbulent history?
- How are citizens and politicians alike coping with the ongoing crisis and transition?
A Brief History: Mythical and mystifying, Sakartvelo (Georgia), on the southern slopes of the Great Caucasus Mountains, stretches from the subtropical Black Sea coast to the wine country of Kakheti, boasting ancient traditions and tantalizing tales. Proclaimed home of the world’s first vintners, and one of the oldest human habitation sites outside of Africa, there is little this land, at the crossroads of empires and time, has not witnessed.
 Ancient Greeks traded in its towns of Dioscuri and Vani; Prometheus was chained to its mountain peaks; infamous Medea, who helped Jason steal the Golden Fleece, was a native of Colchis, the western lands of present day Georgia. The Roman Empire maintained outposts here to help fight its wars against the Parthians of ancient Persia. In medieval times, the Georgian kingdoms were caught between Orthodox Byzantium and the Persian Empire. During the 12th and 13thcenturies Georgia enjoyed a period of peace and unity; its culture flourished in the aura of the Persian Empire, and itsnational epic, The Knight in the Panther Skin, was written. Its economy was fueled by the Silk Road, the trade routethat linked China toVenice, and the country enjoyed a renaissance of knowledge and culture acentury before that in theWest. Unfortunately, its cultural centers were overrun by the Mongols, and fell into decline. The kingdoms of Georgia were then divided between the Ottoman and Persian Empires until they sought Russian protection in 1801. In the 19th century, Georgia became a Romantic destination that inspired some of the most moving Russian literature of the time. As a Soviet ‘National Republic’ in the 20th century, Georgia became a haven for Soviet elites and intelligentsia, and home to a remarkable flowering of literature and cinema.
 Today: An emerging democracy of 4.5 million citizens, Georgia remains at the crosshairs of the crossroads, its nascent democracy under fire, locked in a simmering feud with Russia, while still a darling to the West. Despite civil and separatist wars in the early 1990’s, and political and economic stagnation until the Rose Revolution of 2003, Georgian’s passion for celebrating life and the glory of the Tamada have never wavered. It enjoys a vibrant culture, but one that is little known orunderstood outside of its borders. One of the economically poorer of the former Soviet republics (60% unemployment), Georgia has yet been voted one of the most progressive, every more eagerto modernize and democratize in hopes of joining NATO and the European Union. Georgia is looking to the West for alliances and aid, and is a strategic ally of the US, while Russia is still trying to hold it within its sphere of influence. Few countries offer such an opportunity to witness and study the trials and tribulations of the transition to democracy and market economy as Georgia does today.
Accommodations and Activities: We will live in home-stays during the weeks we are in Tbilisi, and in guest houses or home-stays for field trips. Participants will meet Georgian peers and engage in informal dialogue about what it is like to live in a country undergoing rapid transformation, while yet enveloped in one of the most significant international crises since the fall of the Soviet Union: how are Georgian families holding on to theirnational traditions despite such turmoil and transition? How are these changes being expressed in the culture, in art, literature, music, and film of the day? What do Georgians think about the future of their country and culture?
While in Tbilisi, students will hear from local experts, both Georgian and expatriates, in the fields of history, archeology, political science, civil society, the arts, and more. Students will enjoy ample time to explore the old city, observe a society in flux, experience the quintessential Georgian feast, or Supra, and contemplate what constitutes Georgian identity. Participants will keep journals of their observations, have weekly interpretive assignments, and complete a final project in an area of their special interest.
 Visits to cultural sites in and around Tbilisi will include the major museums holding the country’s treasures, performances of traditional Georgian dance and polyphonic singing, and local festivals. A 5 day trip to the Black Sea coast will take us to Sarpi, on the border with Turkey; Batumi, ancient Roman outpost and current oil transport town; Vani, former capital of Ancient Colchis; and Kutaisi, a cultural center during the middle ages. Day trips from Tbilisi will include Mtskheta, the old capital of Georgia; Gori, Stalin’s hometown; Uplistsikhe, and Davit Gareji, sites of cave cities and monasteries; Mt. Kazbegi and Ananuri Castle, which lie north towards the Russian border; to the Medieval town of Sighnaghi; and Telavi in Kakheti, famous for its wines and the burial place of St. Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia in 330 AD. Preparation: Monthly pre-departure meetings will be held in Spring 2009, to provide background knowledge about Georgian culture and history. Films will be used to access the culture, with supplementary readings in English. There is no foreign language requirement for the course, as the Georgian language is difficult, and English is now widely spoken. Students will be encouraged, however, to familiarize themselves with the Georgian alphabet and learn a few basic phrases. Knowledge of Russian is useful. Students from all majors and disciplines are encouraged to apply.
 Credits: Participants may earn 5 credits in
- SISRE 490 (I&S)
- SISRE 499 (I&S)
- CompLit 396 (VLPA) or
- SLAV 490 (VLPA)
Participants should check with their advisors to determine how these credits can count towards departmental requirements.
Student Costs:
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