Garden Tools: tips, resources and reviews for gardeners

By November Seattle has usually had a good hard frost most of our herbaceous (non-woody) perennials have either turned to mush or look a bit tattered. Before you give in to the temptation to cut back everything in sight, consider the advice of natural gardening advocates James Van Sweden, author of Gardening with Nature (Random House, 1997) and Jackie Bennett, author of The Wildlife Garden (David & Charles, 1993):

• Leaving seed heads and dead stems over the winter gives the garden winter interest, especially if we get some snow
• Seed heads from Black Eyed Susans, Echinacea, Larkspur and Evening primrose provide bird food
• Beneficial insects hibernate or over-winter as eggs on plant waste
• Marginally hardy plants like some salvias and lavenders benefit from the little bit of frost protection from the desiccated stems

On the other hand, sanitation is critical if your apples suffered from codling moth or scab or your roses suffered from black spot. Rake up and dispose of every single diseased leaf or infected fruit. Insect and disease organisms also over-winter on plant debris, so if you had a problem this year, start the treatment now with a thorough clean-up.

Research from Purdue and Cornell University shows that autumn leaves can simply be left where they fall, shredded by a mower and allowed to mulch the lawn. Fertilize as you normally would. The shredding is essential, so don't skip that step. If the leaf mulch is too thick, move some into your flowerbeds or compost bin. Read the research report.

If you're only familiar with the florist's cyclamen with large pink or white flowers you might want to give one of the diminutive yet hardy species a try. Some species are in flower now, while others flower in winter or early spring. Even after the flowers fade the marbled foliage provide months of interest. These summer dormant tubers do best in well-drained soil under deciduous trees that allow good light in winter. Check out the Cyclamen Society web site for more details, including how to keep your florist cyclamen alive.

The multicolored Asian lady beetles look for crevices to spend the winter hibernating and they seem particularly fond of light colored south walls. If you don't want to find these little beneficial insects flying around your house on the first sunny day in spring fill the cracks in your house siding with caulk. For a description, management ideas and detailed vacuum cleaner bagging instructions Ohio State University Extension has a fact sheet on these critters.

Should you dig your dahlias or not? Enthusiasts dig them up every autumn when the clocks get turned back. They dust the tubers with fungicide, divide them up and finally store them in a cool place in slightly damp vermiculite. For those of us not so dedicated to our dahlias we can leave them in the ground provided that the soil is well drained and doesn't freeze. A little patch of plastic can help keep the spot dry over winter. For more dahlia growing tips go to the Puget Sound Dahlia Association website

Make room for herbs in your garden. Many herbs like rosemary and sage look good during winter, most are edible or medicinal, drought tolerant, and aromatic - what more could you ask for in a plant? Herbs do not have to be planted in a separate garden bed, so go ahead and mix some chives or chervil in with your flowers. Herb enthusiasts may want to join the Herb Society of America. For $50.00 per year members receive two publications and discounts from specialty herb nurseries. Call (440) 256-0514 or visit www.herbsociety.org.

The myth: stop watering in fall to encourage plants to go dormant. The reality: plants that go dormant in the winter do not need encouragement, so if it's not raining irrigate those drought stressed plants! Professor Linda Chalker-Scott exposes this and other gardening myths on her website.

Early fall is that magic season in the garden when a good soaking rain and warm soil trigger a flush of new growth in perennials and some shrubs before cold temperatures slows everything down. This explains why now is an ideal time to transplant, divide and otherwise shuffle around your plants. For an illustrated essay on techniques and timing of dividing perennials go to: Clemson University Extension.

Gardeners must forgo instant gratification when buying spring flowering bulbs in the fall, but a few dollars spent in September promise flowers for years to come. Here are the rules for buying good bulbs, with exceptions noted:

• Bulbs should be heavy for their size and larger bulbs give bigger or more numerous flowers, although some tulip and daffodil varieties are naturally small in stature.
• Bulbs should be firm and clean looking, but a little bit of the blue-green mold may be ok if it wipes off easily and the bulb is otherwise firm and heavy.
• The papery skins should be whole, except on tulips and crocus where some sloughing and cracking is ok.
• The bulb should not be "growing" yet (i.e. roots or stem should not be elongated.
• The sooner you purchase and plant, the better. Bulbs languishing in a heated store will start to grow, which can lead to rot and decay.
• What about those bulbs on sale in mid December or the bulbs you forgot about until early January? Go ahead and plant them, but the flowers may be on short, distorted stems this spring. The exception is lilies that never truly go dormant. Buy and plant these as soon as they are available. Don't waste your time or money on bargain lilies.

There are pros and cons of buying pre-bagged "bargain" bulbs. On the plus side discounts are generally offered on bulk purchases leading to a better impact of massed flowers in the garden. On the other hand, buying pre-bagged bulbs doesn't allow for inspection for disease or choosing the largest sized bulbs. Also, only the most popular cultivars are sold this way so you wont find the choice or the rare pre-bagged!