There are a few possibilities. It might be a kind of leaf blight, as described by Iowa State University Extension.

Leaf blight is a fungal problem, but the control methods described above are not nontoxic, so you may want to look for a safer fungicide (example here), and also try to prevent the ideal conditions for fungus. Avoid wetting the leaves of the plant, and make sure there is good air circulation around the plant (by siting it properly, and by pruning to keep the plant's shape open).

Yellowed leaves could also be caused by scale, which is an insect. Do you see small bumps on the leaves and stems? If so, here are recommendations from The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control edited by Barbara Ellis (Rodale, 1996):

Minor infestations can be controlled by scraping the insects off the plant with your fingernail, and by pruning out the most infested parts of the plant. You can also use a soft brush and soapy water to scrub scales off the stems, or you can apply dormant oil to the trunk and stems of the plant just before growth begins next spring, and use superior oil during the growing season.

Because I'm not certain which type of problem your honeysuckle may have, you should bring a sample to a Master Gardener Clinic.

Season All Season
Date 2008-02-07
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Christmas cactus, or Schlumbergera bridgesii, does occasionally have problems with insects. Whitefly nymphs and adults cause damage by sucking plant juices, and their feeding can weaken a plant. They also secrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which may then harbor sooty mold. For indoor plants affected by this insect, you might try gently washing the leaves. Rodale's Encyclopedia of Indoor Gardening, edited by Anne Halpin (1980) says that adults are easy to wipe up when it is colder indoors, and the young are usually on the undersides of leaves and may be wiped off with a sponge. Many whiteflies are now resistant to insecticides, and so it is best to start with plain water or soap and water. The book Indoor Gardening the Organic Way by Julie Bawden-Davis (Taylor, 2006) lists sticky traps, insecticidal soap, alcohol spray, oils, and pyrethrin as potential controls. There are products containing Neem oil which could help, if plain water or soapy water don't control the problem.

Clemson University Extension has some helpful information on general care of this plant.

As for using grass clippings as fertilizer, as long as the grass was not treated with weed-and-feed or other pesticides, it should be a good source of nutrients. Also, avoid using grass which has already gone to seed. Mulch It! by Stu Campbell (Storey Books, 2001) advises not to spread the clippings too thickly, and to let them dry out a bit before using. Here is a link to Virginia Cooperative Extension's page on recycling grass clippings.

Taylor's Guide to Fruits and Berries edited by Roger Holmes (Taylor, 1996) says that "reasonably good soil enriched with an inch or two of good compost or a moderate dose of balanced fertilizer each year should provide sufficient nutrients for your plants to thrive. Berry lovers sometimes provide regular doses of foliar fertilizers to give their plants a boost. Absorbed by the leaves in liquid form, seaweed, fish emulsion, and similar organic materials in balanced formulations provide a broad spectrum of nutrients."

Season All Season
Date 2008-05-24
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