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Gardening Answers Knowledgebase

Search Results for ' Acer palmatum dissectum'

PAL Questions: 3 - Garden Tools:

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Keywords: Acer palmatum dissectum, Deer

PAL Question:

Is the Japanese 'Crimson Queen' laceleaf maple deer resistant?

View Answer:

I found Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) on a few lists of deer resistant plants. (One source is Pacific Horticulture, v. 47 (3) 1986, "Co-Existing with Deer," by Mary Lynn Cox)

None of the lists mention specific cultivars, such as your 'Crimson Queen.' But the risk of damage should be lower than other plants that deer prefer. Every article I read warned that a starving deer will eat anything, so no plant is 100% safe.

Season All Season
Date 2006-03-03
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Keywords: Acer palmatum dissectum, Pruning trees

PAL Question:

How do I go about pruning my laceleaf Japanese maple, and when should I do it?

View Answer:

Cass Turnbull's Guide to Pruning (Sasquatch Books, 2006) specifically addresses the pruning of laceleaf Japanese maple (Acer palmatum dissectum). To summarize, she advises combing out any dead leaves, and then thumb-pruning tiny dead twigs (light gray in color). Remove dead or dying branches, especially near the bottom and inside the tree, working from the bottom up and the inside out. She likes to do summer pruning on this type of maple, but early winter is also acceptable.

You can find additional information on pruning from Plant Amnesty and this link to an earlier book by Cass Turnbull on landscape design, renovation, and maintenance.

Season All Season
Date 2008-02-08
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Keywords: Acer palmatum dissectum, Grafting, Woody plant propagation

PAL Question:

I have some standard Japanese maples onto which I'm trying to T-bud the weeping laceleaf maple. I've had pretty limited success, so I wonder if there's something I'm doing wrong. I've tried at different times of the year: late spring, summer. I cut a young small branch off the weeping Japanese maple. The I cut off a leaf bud. I use a very thin slice under the bud, and cut the leaf off the stem. I cut the T about an inch long in the standard Japanese maple, and slide the bud in. I've used duct tape and plumbing tape. I don't cover the bud but try to snug right up to it with the tape. I only get about 5-10% success doing this. Any suggestions?

View Answer:

You may want to consult the American Horticultural Society Plant Propagation manual (edited by Alan Toogood; DK Publishing, 1999), as it has detailed (and illustrated) information on T-budding and chip-budding. In the description of T-budding, the book emphasizes the importance of not pushing too hard into the bud. It also says to "sever the remaining tail of the bud by cutting into the bark again at the horizontal cut. Then secure the bud in place with plastic tape or raffia in the same way as for a chip-budded ornamental tree, leaving the bud uncovered to avoid exerting too much pressure on it." Texas A & M University also has an illustrated explanation of T-budding.

According to J.D. Vertrees's book Japanese Maples (Timber Press,2009), chip-budding is advantageous because it can be done at almost any time of year and uses less material per graft, allowing growers to make more trees with less. In any case, as long as your grafting knife is nice and sharp and you're working carefully, don't worry that not every graft takes. Professional propagators sometimes make four grafts expecting only one to take. You may find this article from Auburn University about grafting a Japanese maple (by Ken Tilt) useful.

Season All Season
Date 2010-05-20
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June 24 2013 12:55:25