The Morton Arboretum Tree-Care Handbook calls topping, “indiscriminately sawing off large branches” (1994, no page numbers).

According to the Washington State Department of Ecology's Vegetation Management: A Guide for Puget Sound Bluff Property Owners (May 1993, p.23), the practice of topping usually refers to cutting the upper portion of the main leader (trunk) in conifers and to the removal of all branches at a particular height in deciduous trees. Topping is not advised.

Plant Amnesty has loads of information about topping - including why it should not be done - at the following link: http://plantamnesty.org/stoptopping/5reasonstostoptopping.htm.

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Date 2008-01-17
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I would not recommend topping the tree. Since this tree can reach mature heights of 50 to 75 feet, it may not be the right tree for the site. (For your information, here is a page about this tree from the Nebraska Forest Service website.)

Here is information from a local organization, Plant Amnesty, on why topping trees is not a good solution to your landscaping problem.

This organization has an "Adopt-a-Plant" service, if you think you would like to give the tree away. There are also referral services available from Plant Amnesty if you need the tree removed or moved to another location. You could also contact a certified arborist through this link:
http://www.isa-arbor.com/findArborist/findarborist.aspx

I would suggest looking at resources like Great Plant Picks, which lists trees and shrubs which will do well in our area, and includes information on their growth habits and ultimate size at maturity.

Season All Season
Date 2008-01-31
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It certainly could be compaction, though it is not possible to diagnose from a distance. However, symptoms of soil compaction damage include drooping branches, wilted or scorched foliage, and conifers dropping inner needles. This came from the Minnesota DNR's web site, which also discusses treatment. Here is an excerpt:

"Compaction can be partially alleviated by drilling a series of two inch diameter holes to a depth of 12 to 18 inches. Begin three feet from the trunk and continue drilling holes at two foot intervals in concentric rings around the tree and continue to at least the dripline. Each hole may be refilled with sand, peat moss or mulch. Don't recap the hole with a sod plug. There are other alternatives, such as soil injections of air or pressurized water, available from some professional tree care services."

WSU extension explains that careful watering and fertilizing can help damaged trees, though it is best to help them before damage is noticed. This, and more is found in their site "Construction Damage to Trees".

Another good resource is the University of Minnesota extension's "Protecting Trees from Construction Damage: A Homeowner's Guide." Much like the WSU resource, it discusses how to care for damaged trees and when to remove them, but in more detail.

Finally it would be a good idea to consult the Plant Amnesty referral service at 206-783-9813, or search for an arborist at the PNW International Society for Arboriculture site "Hiring an Arborist" site.

Season All Season
Date 2008-06-11
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