Why fashion photoblogging matters

By Nikolaj Lasbo

Reluctance is not a trait of a photojournalist. Simply put: You either get the photo or you don't. When I approached people around campus and on the streets in the U-district, sometimes with a quiver in my speech or a hesitation in my stare, I did not have an editor, deadline, paycheck or other traditional standards to answer to. I only felt responsible to get a photo and the person's story of their fashion for the readers of my fashion photoblog University Street Meet . I was empowered and had become part of a movement in fashion photography.

In her 2004 photo essay, Karen Lehrman, author of the Lipstick Proviso: Women, Sex & Power in the Real World , argued that fashion photography was declining due to a departure from art and a trend toward photojournalism. Her argument couldn't be more irrelevant for fashion today. In the years following the publication of her essay, fashion photoblogging has emerged.

Fashion blogs have become the zeitgeist of an “e-generation” that embodies empowerment. Many of the bloggers did not have any formal experience in fashion photography and — speaking from experience — learned on the job. One of the first fashion blogs, The Sartorialist (started in 2005, a year after Lehrman's pronouncement), was started by a marketer for high-end fashion with the goal to present the realities of fashion.

“I thought I could shoot people on the street the way designers looked at people,” said founder Scott Schuman. “My only strategy when I began The Sartorialist was to try and shoot style in a way that I knew most designers hunted for inspiration.”

Lehrman's argument is irrelevant because, like Schuman intended, fashion blogs now connect with everyday street fashion through journalistic methods and show how fashion is experienced in reality. This has become increasingly important for editors of traditional fashion publications that bloggers like Schuman— who now contributes to GQ and Conde Nast's Style.com — have been recognized as an important source for fashion photography.

While not heralded as a Mecca for style, the University of Washington campus offered an interesting angle to approach fashion. With U.S.M ., I wanted to show a student's perspective of fashion by publishing what my peers were wearing and by editorializing about what I found to be effective. My intention — similar to Schuman's — was to give inspiration to my readers and possibly provide something for designers targeting my niche.

I did not consider myself an authority on fashion. Rather, I was often at a loss for words when it came to describing clothing and the way it was worn. I interviewed the people I met relentlessly, trying to understand their styles so that I could accurately describe them to my readers. Photographers that joined the blog described similar experiences.

“One of my subjects told me she favored an Empire silhouette style,” said Saba Samakar. “I actually had to look up what that meant.”

I began to notice certain proclivities in U.S.M. 's subjects, such as thriftiness, practicality and creativity that are serious considerations to keep in mind if you are a designer, marketer or even me: a blogger. These are the realities of fashion that exist for my readers and, as proof that they matter, I will recount some of the trends I noticed during the past couple of months.

“I go shopping in bins at the Goodwill outlet,” Chris Chan said. “I wear what old people from the ‘40s and ‘50s can no longer fit in.”

I had never heard of the “bins” before, but because a lot of the people I met referred to them, I had to check it out. The “bins” is a Goodwill outlet in South Seattle where shoppers can buy clothes by the pound. It typifies the need for cheap fashion for students.

Chan was actually living off of food stamps and was demonstrably the epitome of the poor-student lifestyle. Many said they wanted to obtain a high-fashion look without breaking the bank and found thrift stores to be the perfect compromise. Even professors needed cheap solutions.

UW geography professor J.W. Harrington said it was easy to have an inexpensive style because he had kept his ‘80s wardrobe and hadn't changed it since. He had a classic style that didn't need to change for yearly trends, which is needed for his lifestyle.

Lifestyle needs translated into practical clothing. Students' busy schedules could not be put on hold for fashion. One student I met was rushing from dance practice and was wearing her leotard as part of her outfit for the rest of the day.

“I have to try and make my leotard look like part of my costume,” Laurie Roberts said. “It is sort of a scientific coordination that I do think about.”

Some had it easier, as was the case with thrift-storeowner Caryn Cook. She had access to her entire store when it came time to create an outfit. She said her style is very short-lived, and she hardly wears a piece of clothing for more than a day. When I saw her, Cook's outfit was indeed an extension of her lifestyle, similar to other members of the university community.

Cook was naturally creative with her style, as were others that I photographed.

“I have to dress business casual here, but I try to be as creative as I can,” said Erin Wilson, an employee at the UW Career Center. “I could just wear pants and a shirt, but I don't want to do that.”

Others were able to experiment more with their style. Tim Eberth had a style all his own that I had never seen before. His Transformers-brand action figure hanging from his coat pocket was part of his outfit; the blues and reds complemented the hues of his Navy jacket. He had created a look that couldn't be matched by others.

“UW has always had its style leaders, and Tim is obviously one of them without even trying,” commented one reader named “Tulsa” on the blog. “Better still, he's his own man, unafraid of stepping outside life's box.”

This level of humanity would not have been revealed by traditional fashion photography. My photoblog shows how fashion was actually worn, on the streets, by the many faces of style. This is why Lehrman's argument is invalid: While fashion photography may be departing from tradition, it is moving toward realistic photoblogging that shows the actualities of fashion. I believe that fashion blogs like U.S.M. provide important insight for the fashion industry, inspiration to readers and an antithesis to Lehrman's argument.

“I think our blog is important because we connect with the people we meet and show how our readers can emulate their style,” said Samakar. “Most magazines will show what the models are wearing. Maybe a $2,000 coat from Burberry, a $1,000 bag from Coach and $500 pants from Diesel. These prices are impossible for students and by showing where people actually buy fashion, we provide a practical solution for our readers.”

Nikolaj Lasbo has worked as a writer and photographer for the University of Washington Daily newspaper. He is the founder of University Street Meet.