{"id":2760,"date":"2020-03-27T00:04:48","date_gmt":"2020-03-27T07:04:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/pal\/pal-question-558\/"},"modified":"2024-04-13T12:41:30","modified_gmt":"2024-04-13T19:41:30","slug":"caring-for-sago-palms","status":"publish","type":"pal","link":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/pal\/caring-for-sago-palms\/","title":{"rendered":"Caring for Sago palms"},"content":{"rendered":"

My Sago palm hasn’t shown any<\/strong>
\nnew growth or hint of life for several years, other than the same few fronds. The remaining fronds are still a uniform<\/strong>
\ngreen and appear healthy. I water periodically,<\/strong>
\nwhen the soil feels dry to the touch.<\/strong><\/p>\n

About 2 years ago, I emailed a Sago palm specialist website and<\/strong>
\ninquired; they advised transplanting it into a new pot with new soil and<\/strong>
\nto stop feeding it African Violet food (which I had been), saying that it<\/strong>
\nwas raising the electricity in the soil (which Sagos evidently don’t<\/strong>
\nlike). I did as they said, using a soil mix that was a Sago preference,<\/strong>
\nand only gave it plain water, but still nothing.<\/strong><\/p>\n

I’ve read that it enjoys direct sunlight; so I put it in the sun (during<\/strong>
\nthe warm seasons) and the leaves began to show signs of burning and<\/strong>
\nprematurely drying out. I’ve also read that it enjoys shade or indirect<\/strong>
\nlight, and that’s where it is now inside by a window; its leaves are<\/strong>
\nnot yellowing (at least not as fast as when in the sun; they are<\/strong>
\nbeginning to age as they ought), but, as said, it is fast, fast asleep.<\/strong>
\nOur condo is not heated so the temp inside is relatively cool most of the<\/strong>
\ntime. I’m beginning to wonder if it is worth keeping; I really would<\/strong>
\nlike to see it flourish, of course, but how long do I wait?<\/strong><\/p>\n

To wit, is there a way to wake up this sleeping beauty?<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

The book Cycads of the World<\/em><\/a> by David Jones (Reed Press, 1993) says that
\nas a potted plant, Cycas revoluta will do well indoors with poor light
\nand neglect, but does prefer sun. (The information from a nursery owner
\nbelow says that the plant orientation is more important than the amount
\nof sun). Good drainage is key, and watering when dry, and regular
\napplications of light fertilizer should be helpful.<\/p>\n

Through University of British Columbia Botanical Gardens online forum, I
\ncame across information from the owner of a British Columbia Cycad specialist nursery,
\nLori Pickering:<\/p>\n

“Cycads are very hardy plants and are rarely bothered by pests or
\ndiseases. They do, however, require very loose soil with perfect
\ndrainage. Allow the soil to dry out somewhat between watering. If
\npossible, use rain water or filtered water, which is pure and free from
\ncontaminants.<\/p>\n

“Cycads do exceptionally well in pots. They actually like being
\nroot-bound, so do not be too anxious to re-pot. Always keep pots
\noriented in the same direction (e.g. facing north) to prevent the leaves
\nfrom spiralling and twisting out of plane. Just write “N” on the pot
\nwith a felt marker.<\/p>\n

“Cycad potting mix: 3 shovels friable loam, 2 shovels coarse sand, 4
\nshovels milled pine or fir bark, 1 shovel peat moss, one cup complete
\norganic fertilizer (OR 45 grams slow-release balanced pellet fertilizer
\nsuch as 18:6:18 with micro-elements, 40 grams dolomite lime, 3 grams iron
\nsulphate, 3 grams magnesium sulphate). Mulch with compost.
\nCycads grown in pots do not have access to all the nutrients available
\nwhen growing in the ground. During the growing season, when your cycads
\nare summering out of doors, water every so often with a weak dilution of
\nsea kelp or de-odorized liquid fish fertilizer, according to package
\ndirections. This will provide the trace elements they require for
\noptimum growth.<\/p>\n

“Complete Organic Fertilizer recipe: 4 parts seed meal (i.e. flax or
\ncanola), 1 part rock phosphate OR 1\/2 part bone meal, 1 part lime, 1\/2
\npart kelp meal.<\/p>\n

“When planting cycads in the garden be sure they have excellent drainage.
\nThe best way to ensure this is to plant them on a mound and incorporate
\nlots of sand into the soil. Some species are more tolerant of rainfall
\nand frost than others, so be sure to choose the right plant for your
\nsituation.<\/p>\n

“Asian Cycad Scale (Aulacaspis yasumatsui), a native of Thailand, is a
\npest that has been spread to cycad populations of the southern U.S., the
\nWestern Caribbean, and Hawaii. It has proved devastating to growers in
\nthose areas. So far it has not been found in Canada. That is another
\nreason we grow all our cycads from seed and do not import any plants from
\nabroad. (This scale looks like a white powder on the leaves).”<\/p>\n

Cycad care instructions from the Jurassic Plants website (no longer available online):<\/p>\n

“Cycads are generally very easy to grow. Their main requirement is perfect
\ndrainage, as they will develop root rot if water remains stagnant in the
\nsoil. A loose, fast-draining potting mix such a cactus mix is preferred,
\nwith a neutral to slightly alkaline soil, pH6 to 7. Terra cotta pots will
\nhelp to keep the soil on the dry side and provide aeration. Fertilize
\nwith a low phosphorus (3-1-3 ratio) timed-release fertilizer including
\ntrace nutrients. All cycads benefit from a mulch, which will encourage
\nthe growth of their coralloid roots. Rain forest cycads especially are
\nsensitive to salts in the water, so use rainwater or filtered water, if
\npossible. Those from drier habitats are more tolerant of mineralization
\nin the water. Some cycads prefer full sun, others shade, but always keep
\nthem oriented in the same direction (e.g., north) to keep the leaves from
\nspiralling out of plane.”<\/p>\n

Cycads<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

My Sago palm hasn’t shown any new growth or hint of life for several years, other than the same few fronds. The remaining fronds are still a uniform green and appear healthy. I water periodically, when the soil feels dry to the touch. About 2 years ago, I emailed a Sago palm specialist website and inquired; they advised transplanting it into a new pot with new soil and to stop feeding it African Violet food (which I had been), saying…<\/p>\n

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