{"id":2773,"date":"2019-05-18T00:05:01","date_gmt":"2019-05-18T07:05:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/pal\/pal-question-564\/"},"modified":"2024-01-30T16:38:55","modified_gmt":"2024-01-31T00:38:55","slug":"on-overwintering-dahlias","status":"publish","type":"pal","link":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/pal\/on-overwintering-dahlias\/","title":{"rendered":"on overwintering dahlias"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>I have some beautiful red dahlias in two flower boxes on my front<\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>porch. Two questions: I noticed some of the leaves at the bottom<\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>of the plants are turning yellow and dropping although the plants<\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>are still blossoming. What to do? Also, do I need to remove them<\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>from the soil for the winter here?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>To answer your second question first, you don&#8217;t have to dig up your<br \/>\ndahlias unless you prefer to do so. Here is what local gardening expert<br \/>\nMarianne Binetti says on this subject in her <a href=\"http:\/\/www.seattlepi.com\/lifestyle\/homegarden\/article\/Ask-Marianne-Take-it-easy-Leave-dahlia-tubers-1250076.php\"> Seattle P-I<br \/>\ncolumn<\/a>:<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Laid-back gardeners should just leave their dahlia tubers in the ground.<br \/>\nCut back the top growth after the first hard frost and then cover the<br \/>\ndahlia bed with a waterproof oilcloth tablecloth or tarp. Secure with<br \/>\nrocks or bark mulch. This keeps the tubers dry and in the spring you can<br \/>\nremove the covering and see what comes up. For dahlias worked into a<br \/>\nmixed bed, you can pile sword fern leaves on top and weigh these down<br \/>\nwith a rock.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;It is the wet more than the cold that kills dahlia tubers.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;If you really need to dig and store dahlias, place them in open paper<br \/>\nbags, never plastic, and let them dry in a covered area for a few days<br \/>\nbefore storing.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>As for the yellowed leaves, it is hard to diagnose the problem via<br \/>\ne-mail. There is a chance that you could safely just keep removing and<br \/>\ndisposing of the yellowed leaves. However, there are problems like<br \/>\nleafhoppers (an insect which feeds on the leaves and causes them to<br \/>\nbecome speckled, then turn dry and drop off), or viral diseases which can<br \/>\ncause yellow spotting or mottling of the leaves. I looked at <em>The<br \/>\nGardener&#8217;s Guide to Growing Dahlias<\/em> by Gareth Rowlands (Timber Press,<br \/>\n1999), and found descriptions of leaves which have turned yellow due to a<br \/>\nnumber of causes, including chlorosis (the leaves are unable to produce<br \/>\nenough chlorophyll, and turn yellow if there us still carotin present, or<br \/>\nwhite in only xanthophyll remains). When a mature dahlia turns yellow, it<br \/>\nmay be due to a nutrient imbalance (such as lack of magnesium or iron).<br \/>\nWithout having the plants diagnosed, it is impossible to recommend a<br \/>\nremedy, so you may want to bring samples to a Master Gardener Clinic.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I have some beautiful red dahlias in two flower boxes on my front porch. Two questions: I noticed some of the leaves at the bottom of the plants are turning yellow and dropping although the plants are still blossoming. What to do? Also, do I need to remove them from the soil for the winter here? &nbsp; To answer your second question first, you don&#8217;t have to dig up your dahlias unless you prefer to do so. Here is what&#8230;<\/p>\n<div><a class=\"more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/pal\/on-overwintering-dahlias\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">on overwintering dahlias<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"menu_order":0,"template":"","keyword":[134],"class_list":["post-2773","pal","type-pal","status-publish","hentry","keyword-dahlia"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pal\/2773"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pal"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/pal"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2773"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"keyword","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/keyword?post=2773"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}