{"id":2775,"date":"2019-05-18T00:05:03","date_gmt":"2019-05-18T07:05:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/pal\/pal-question-566\/"},"modified":"2024-01-30T16:36:22","modified_gmt":"2024-01-31T00:36:22","slug":"fall-planting-and-transplanting-of-shrubs","status":"publish","type":"pal","link":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/pal\/fall-planting-and-transplanting-of-shrubs\/","title":{"rendered":"Fall planting and transplanting of shrubs"},"content":{"rendered":"

I have red osier dogwood, buttonbush, elderberry, and willow<\/strong>
\nshrubs that I want to transplant. They are going to be transplanted near<\/strong>
\na pond to strengthen the riparian buffer, and I wanted to know if it is<\/strong>
\nokay to plant them now. It’s late October but it has been very warm, 70’s<\/strong>
\nand 80’s, and not too cold at night yet. What are the optimal<\/strong>
\ntransplanting conditions for these plants and will they take if I plant<\/strong>
\nthem in the next week or so?<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Are these mature plants, or nursery starts? Is it both hot and dry where
\nyou are? Fall is usually a good time to plant and transplant here in the
\nPacific Northwest, but we have ample fall rainfall. If it has been dry in
\nPoughkeepsie, you might want to wait. However, I looked at the forecast
\nfor the next several days in your area, and it seems to be in the 40’s and
\n50’s, which should be fine.<\/p>\n

Any relatively young plant should not present a problem when
\ntransplanting. Below are general guidelines for planting\/transplanting:<\/p>\n

Fall Planting of Trees and Shrubs<\/a> from Iowa State University<\/p>\n

Excerpt (keep in mind this is from the mid-West):<\/p>\n

“If plants from a nursery can be planted in the fall, what about moving
\nor transplanting established trees and shrubs from one locale to another?
\nAs you might suspect, severing the roots of a plant (up to 95 percent in
\nsome cases), hauling it out of the ground, and moving it to a completely
\nnew site is a stressful operation, regardless of the season. Still,
\ntransplanting can be successfully carried out if it is restricted to
\nthose plants with a proven track record of surviving such a move in the
\nfall.<\/p>\n

“Why is it that some plants can be planted at almost any time of the year
\nwhile others are saddled with much narrower windows of opportunity?
\nReasons for these differences are a subject for debate, but the commonly
\nheld belief is that plants with shallow, fibrous roots can usually be
\nplanted with greater ease than those with fewer, larger roots. Prime
\nexamples of difficult-to-plant trees are magnolia and tulip tree; both
\nhave thick, fleshy roots. Other slow-to-establish species that are better
\nplanted in spring include fir, birch, American hornbeam, American
\nyellowwood, ginkgo, larch, sweetgum, hophornbeam, oak, willow, bald
\ncypress, and hemlock.<\/p>\n

“Notable tree species that can be successfully planted in the fall include
\nmaple, buckeye or horsechestnut, alder, catalpa, hackberry, hawthorn,
\nash, honeylocust, Kentucky coffeetree, crabapple, Amur corktree, spruce,
\npine, sycamore, linden, and elm. Most deciduous shrubs are easily planted
\nin fall; however, broad-leaved evergreens like rhododendron and
\nnarrow-leaved evergreens like yew prefer to be planted in the spring.<\/p>\n

“Fall planting (mid-August to mid-October) takes advantage of favorable
\nsoil temperatures and moisture conditions that promote the root growth
\nneeded to sustain plants through their critical first year in the
\nlandscape. Unfortunately, our midwestern climate is unpredictable, and
\neven the toughest plants may die if fall or early winter weather is
\nsevere or erratic. But if healthy, vigorous plants are chosen, if proper
\npost-planting care is given, and if slow-to-establish species are
\navoided, fall planting of trees and shrubs can be as successful as spring
\nplanting.”<\/p>\n

Cornell University Cooperative Extension<\/a> has an online manual on planting
\nand care for trees and shrubs which includes a general recommendation of
\nlate summer to fall for planting woody plants in New York State, as well
\nas a short list of species which should not be planted in the fall (it
\nmentions Cornus<\/em>, but not specifically red osier dogwood). The main reason
\nnot to plant too late in the fall would have to do with early frosts
\ncausing the plants to heave out of the ground.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I have red osier dogwood, buttonbush, elderberry, and willow shrubs that I want to transplant. They are going to be transplanted near a pond to strengthen the riparian buffer, and I wanted to know if it is okay to plant them now. It’s late October but it has been very warm, 70’s and 80’s, and not too cold at night yet. What are the optimal transplanting conditions for these plants and will they take if I plant them in the…<\/p>\n

Continue reading Fall planting and transplanting of shrubs<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"menu_order":0,"template":"","keyword":[35],"class_list":["post-2775","pal","type-pal","status-publish","hentry","keyword-transplanting"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pal\/2775"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pal"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/pal"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2775"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"keyword","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/keyword?post=2775"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}