{"id":2786,"date":"2019-08-02T00:05:14","date_gmt":"2019-08-02T07:05:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/pal\/pal-question-576\/"},"modified":"2023-08-08T12:51:52","modified_gmt":"2023-08-08T19:51:52","slug":"lilac-and-elm-wood-and-allelopathy","status":"publish","type":"pal","link":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/pal\/lilac-and-elm-wood-and-allelopathy\/","title":{"rendered":"lilac and elm wood and allelopathy"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>I have a huge planter to fill but don&#8217;t want to buy that much soil so I want to partially fill it with wood. I&#8217;m going to plant herbs in it but I wanted to know if the wood I have would make eating the herbs inadvisable. I have roots and branches from a snake bark elm and some large pieces of lilac. None of the wood is treated but I know some wood is poisonous and wasn&#8217;t sure about these two.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Before you go ahead with using wood to fill in the planter, another trick<br \/>\nyou might try is to put an upended smaller pot inside the large pot, if<br \/>\nthe planter is too deep. What you are looking for is a potting medium<br \/>\nwith good drainage.<\/p>\n<p>I am not familiar with snakebark elm (there is a snakebark maple, and a<br \/>\nlacebark elm&#8211;might it be one of these?) so I can&#8217;t give a conclusive<br \/>\nanswer about its wood or roots. The phenomenon of plants which are toxic<br \/>\nto other plants is called allelopathy. The most famously allelopathic<br \/>\ntree is the black walnut. Apparently, lilac wood (Syringa vulgaris) has<br \/>\nthe ability to raise the phenolics content in the soil, according to a<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/web.archive.org\/web\/20150908043920\/http:\/\/seas.iung.pulawy.pl\/pdf\/str107.pdf\">2004 scientific article<\/a> (now archived) I found, from the 2nd European Allelopathy Symposium.<\/p>\n<p>To be on the safe side, I would avoid using the lilac and elm wood as<br \/>\nfiller in your planter, since there are better options.<\/p>\n<p>You may find the information below useful:<\/p>\n<p>Local gardener Mary Preus&#8217;s book, <em>The Northwest Herb Lover&#8217;s Handbook<\/em><br \/>\n(Sasquatch Books, 2000) offers a recipe for potting soil for herbs grown in containers:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>8 quarts compost, earthworm castings and\/or composted chicken or steer<br \/>\nmanure<\/li>\n<li>4 quarts sphagnum peat moss<\/li>\n<li>4 quarts perlite<\/li>\n<li>4 quarts builder&#8217;s sand<\/li>\n<li>1 cup all-purpose fertilizer mix (she has another recipe for this*)<\/li>\n<li>3 tablespoons ground dolomitic limestone<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>*all-purpose fertilizer recipe:<\/p>\n<li>2 pounds fish meal or crab meal<\/li>\n<li>1\/2 pound greensand<\/li>\n<li>1\/2 pound steamed bonemeal<\/li>\n<li>1 pound rock phosphate<\/li>\n<li>1 pound kelp meal<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Virginia CooperativeExtension also has <a href=\"https:\/\/www.pubs.ext.vt.edu\/content\/dam\/pubs_ext_vt_edu\/426\/426-336\/SPES-255.pdf\">information on soil mixes<\/a> for growing edible crops in containers:<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;A fairly lightweight mix is needed for container gardening. Soil<br \/>\nstraight from the garden usually cannot be used in a container because it<br \/>\nis too heavy, unless your garden has sandy loam or sandy soil. Clay soil<br \/>\nconsists of extremely small (microscopic) particles. In a container, the<br \/>\nbad qualities of clay are exaggerated. It holds too much moisture when<br \/>\nwet, resulting in too little air for the roots. Also, it pulls away from<br \/>\nthe sides of the pot when dry.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Container medium must be porous in order to support plants, because roots<br \/>\nrequire both air and water. Packaged potting soil available at local<br \/>\ngarden centers is relatively lightweight and may make a good container<br \/>\nmedium.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;For a large container garden, the expense of prepackaged or soil- less<br \/>\nmixes may be quite high. Try mixing your own with one part peat moss, one<br \/>\npart garden loam, and one part clean coarse (builder&#8217;s) sand, and a<br \/>\nslow-release fertilizer (14-14-14) added according to container size.<br \/>\nLime may also be needed to bring the pH to around 6.5. In any case, a<br \/>\nsoil test is helpful in determining nutrient and pH needs, just as in a<br \/>\nlarge garden.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I have a huge planter to fill but don&#8217;t want to buy that much soil so I want to partially fill it with wood. I&#8217;m going to plant herbs in it but I wanted to know if the wood I have would make eating the herbs inadvisable. I have roots and branches from a snake bark elm and some large pieces of lilac. None of the wood is treated but I know some wood is poisonous and wasn&#8217;t sure about&#8230;<\/p>\n<div><a class=\"more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/pal\/lilac-and-elm-wood-and-allelopathy\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">lilac and elm wood and allelopathy<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"menu_order":0,"template":"","keyword":[247,76,132,502],"class_list":["post-2786","pal","type-pal","status-publish","hentry","keyword-container-gardening","keyword-herbs","keyword-potting-soils","keyword-quirky"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pal\/2786"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pal"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/pal"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2786"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"keyword","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/depts.washington.edu\/hortlib\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/keyword?post=2786"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}