View Article: August 29: Trastevere

	August 29: Trastevere
	written by Allie Kunkel / 07.04.2004

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Itinerary

We met on the bridge to Trastevere, Ponte Sisto.

Our first stop was Santa Maria in Trastevere. A logical beginning since it dates back to the third century as the oldest place of Christian worship in Rome as well as the first church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin.

The next stop was another church, San Francesco a Ripa. At San Francesco we saw Bernini's "Ecstasy of Beata Ludovica Albertoni." Illuminated by a concealed window, her passion is palpable, the cherubs above ensure us it's purely religious.

Then we checked out Santa Celcilia in Trastevere. The third church in our tour.

Lastly we explored the crypt of San Crisogono. Underneath the church were dusty rock walls, ancient images still clinging in places. Femurs and tibias filled a stone bathtub in one corner as hunks of rock bearing fragments of ancient inscriptions littered another... then the nuns kicked us out.

Highlights

While crossing the bridge to Trastevere, Shawn explained to the girls the reputation we might acquire if found roaming the riverbanks at night...

The story of Santa Cecilia was my favorite part, she really earned her martyrdom. Shut up in her own baths to be scalded to death in 230, she exited unscathed, only to then become victim to a botched beheading that left her alive an additional three days. Everyone got a kick out of that.

Images

Bernini's "Ecstasy"

Highlights from each day in Rome

In this photo of Bernini's "Ecstasy" the flash of the camera has concealed the true source of light for the sculpture. Hidden behind the wall is a small windown letting in golden light that makes Beata shine and creates lifelike shadows.

The tub was in a corner of the crypt, bones lining the bottom. Unfortunately, they just appeared to be generic leg bones, no skulls. Pity.

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