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Santa Cecilia in Trastevere |
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by Angela Hitt / 07.12.2004 |
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Church |
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Of all of the churches we've visited in Rome, my favorite is Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.
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Reason for Selection |
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While the interior of Santa Cecilia contains many of the same features as other churches we've seen, the entrance courtyard is what sets it apart from others. It is an accessible place of quiet reflection. In the center stands a large fountain providing the tranquil sound of running water. A seat on the edge of the fountain provides a good view of people entering and exiting the church. The edges of the courtyard are lined with blooming purple butterfly bushes, among other flowers. There is no audible traffic noise (the piazza outside the entry gate is very quiet), just the occasional sound of the bells.
The interior of church bright white trimmed in gold but not as overdone as many of the other churches we've visited. My favorite detail in the interior is the Cosmatesque marble inlay on the altar and divider of the nave with large pieces of dark reds, blues, and greens. I prefer the larger geometry of the designs to the more intricate marble work I've seen in other churches. The golden Byzantine mosaic decorating the top of the apse is simple; Christ is surrounded by six saints while underneath 12 lambs surround the Lamb of God. Plain green marble connects the mosaic to the floor, giving the viewer a visual break from the brightness of the mosaic above.
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Description |
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When we first visited the church, it was a relatively quiet Friday morning. Tourists wandered around the interior and a few lingered in the courtyard. The general feeling for me was one of secular observation.
I much preferred my visit on Sunday. The courtyard nearly empty and it was much more peaceful and conducive to thought, as was the interior. During mass a few tourists wandered in and out observing the building itself. There were many older Italian men and women in the congregation and several people who, like me, were not fluent in Italian but were there for the service.
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Memorable Visit |
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Because Santa Cecilia is the patron saint of music, I decided it would be fun to visit a Sunday mass and hear the acoustics of the church. It would also be a chance to see and hear the music of the Benedictine nuns of St Cecilia. After wandering through the winding streets of Trastevere, I finally came upon the church. I had assumed mass was at nine, as many of the other churches around Rome hold their first Sunday mass at that hour, but was pleasantly surprised that it wasn't until ten. That gave me an hour to enjoy the tranquility of the entry courtyard. I sat on the fountain, wrote a little, and observed a man sweeping up the confetti from a wedding. A nun, clothed in the classic black and white habit, unlocked the doors. I lingered a few more minutes in the courtyard. At quarter to ten I wandered into the church. The organist began to practice as I sat down in the red chair. I was impressed by the richness of the sound. When mass began, the chairs were only about half full. The nuns’ voices, though soft, were both rich and vibrant. Compared to the other masses I've been to in Rome, the music made it was much more personal.
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Image |
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| Front Courtyard of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere |
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I will take a calm and peaceful image of the time I spent in Santa Cecilia's courtyard when I leave Rome and the sound of the nuns singing the mass.
This particular image does not show the edges of the courtyard, but shows the exterior of the church and the fountain. During my visit the blooming flowers along the edge of the courtyard were beautiful. Although part of the bell tower is cut off, this image provides a reasonable view of the front of the church. I could not find any pictures of the interior.
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