View Article: Ghetto and Pantheon

	Ghetto and Pantheon
	written by ars7 / 10.06.2004

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The social characteristics of the residents

Shane

Ghetto: barred windows

Shane

Ghetto: Judaica shop

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Ghetto: Hare Krishna

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Ghetto: graffiti

Shane

Pantheon: contrast in building quality

Ghetto: The residents are middle or lower class based on clothing styles, vehicle quality and cleanliness, and building quality. Many buildings seem abandoned, and many had bars on the windows of the lower stories. There was a range of age groups visible, slanted towards middle-aged/older people and children. There was strong evidence of a significant Jewish population based on the stores in the neighborhood, although there were two Hare Krishna/Buddhist storefronts. We saw some anti-homosexual grafitti, but no other signs of sexual preference or PDA.

Pantheon: There was a wide variation in residential buiilding upkeep in this neighborhood, sometimes right next to each other, but the streets are fairly clean and there is much less grafitti. Few locals appeared to be present, so it is difficult to judge their social class. The locals are vastly outnumbered in this area, since they cluster to Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. Presumably they are younger and more wealthy than those of the ghetto, since stores in the neighborhood are more expensive and trendy.

The distinctive economic and consumption activity in the neighborhood

Shane

Ghetto: Jewish restaurant

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Pantheon: a taste of home

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Pantheon: McDonalds

Ghetto: There were few restaurants visible. Those that were were mostly kosher "delis" serving pizza and Middle Eastern food to local kids, and had Hebrew on their storefronts. There were also many small fabric, pajamas, home furnishings, Judaica, and modest lingerie shops that catered to local families. The display windows were less elaborate than those near the Campo. Presumably women did the shopping since there were only women's clothes visible. There was only one tourist shop, and that was near the Ghetto's only tourist attraction, the synagogue. Surprisingly, there were also several internet access points and photocopy shops, suggesting that the locals are more "connected" than they appear.

Pantheon: This neighborhood is clearly a tourist hotspot. There were many bars, restaurants, and gelaterias with their seats filled by multinational tourists. Most menus were in English, and there was even a McDonalds. There was only one establishment that sold bread and cheese for locals, and it also had pizza for the tourists. The Piazza Navona is filled with vendors selling souvenirs. Few establishments on the smaller side streets were open during siesta on Sunday (although it was clear that commercial establishments existed because there were many metal roll-down gates on the street level), but establishments on the wider streets and piazzas were open. There were several upscale clothing stores, including two "Totem" stores within 3 blocks of each other, and upscale accessory shops. There was a large clerical clothing outfitter, DeRitis, that took up many storefront windows, on the same street (Via del Cestari) as a religious art gallery and a church. There were a few hotels, but fewer than might be expected.

Generalizations about the character/culture of the area

Shane

Ghetto: more graffiti

Shane

Ghetto: anti-war

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Pantheon: tourist aids

Shane

Pantheon: public space

Shane

Pantheon: visible religion

Ghetto: We deem this neighborhood square, based on the lack of nightlife locations like restaurants or large public spaces. There were few people visible in the 18-30 age bracket and little evidence that they were provided for by local establishments. There was a clear religious history in the area, and it seems like people are still fairly religious, since at two Judaica shops were in business. The main Jewish synagogue in Rome is located on the edge of this neighborhood, but there were several churches in the interior. We found a flyer (in English) for sephardic cooking classes with many of the tabs torn off, so there is an interest in Jewish culture. There was a lot of political grafitti and posters here, mostly anti-war and anti-Bush. Many PACE flags flew from windows, and posters advertised Communist rallies.

Pantheon: The main characteristic of this neighborhood is its tourist orientation. There were tourists of all ages and races, and many family groups. We wouldn't call it hip or square per se, more oriented to people just passing through. At night there are many young people, mostly tourists, hanging out in the bars and public spaces. There was one religiously oriented street, and several Christian icons on the corners of buildings facing large piazzas.

Further observations

These are two very different neighborhoods, although only one street (Corso Vittorio Emanuele) divides them. They are both more extreme than the Campo, since the Campo area is both touristy and residentially oriented. There was much more public space in the Pantheon neighborhood--wider streets, more piazzas, more outdoor seating, more benches and statues to sit on. These elements were much reduced in the interior of the Ghetto, but existed on the busy streets on the periphery. Even during the siesta, the Pantheon neighborhood was bustling, but the Ghetto was very quiet. The Ghetto seemed like a closed community that was not accepting of outsiders, since we felt slightly out of place just walking through and were given a wide berth by locals. In contrast, the Pantheon neighborhood is very open and invites people to enter, because it derives its economic base from nonresidents.

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