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1 settembre 2003 |
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written
by Jennifer Lee / 07.04.2004 |
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Itinerary |
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We began the first Monday of our trip with a visit to Sant'Ivo all Sapienza. This 16th century church boasts a Baroque style and was designed by Borromini. It strongly contrasts in architecture and style with our second church of the day, built to Saint Luigi. In San Luigi dei Francesi, we compared this second 16th century church to Sant'Ivo all Sapienza and noted the differences that stem from the origins of the churches’ history. Specifically, San Luigi dei Francesi is a French national church and does not possess the Baroque styling of Sant'Ivo all Sapienza. Instead, its claim to fame is a small corner of the church containing three paintings by Caravaggio. Upon entering, the paintings are located towards the back of the church in a small, dimly lit alcove on the left side of the church. Be prepared to add a few or several coins to the small machine attached to the wall near the right-most painting. It will turn on bright lights that fill the alcove and allow you to view the paintings more clearly.
The third church that we visited was built in the 17th century. This church, Sant'Ignazio di Loyola, also lacks the Baroque styling of Sant'Ivo all Sapienza. A major feature of the church is its physical placement among the surrounding buildings. It stands in front of a large piazza, the Piazza di Sant'Ignazio. A balcony attached to one building overlooks the theatrical square, giving the piazza the appearance that it is always ready for a small outdoor opera or lively evening entertainment.
The next site we walked by was the Temple of Hadrian, a former Emperor of Rome. While not a very impressive structure from the outside, it now houses the Roman stock exchange. The exterior of the building looks old and somewhat in ruin, although the inside is completely modernized.
The fourth church of the day was truly unique because it provides a rare example of Gothic architecture. Santa Maria sopra Minerva was built in the 13th century and both Lisa and Jennifer referenced this church, both for its structure and design.
To finish off a day full of delights, Shawn led us up the road from the Pantheon that leads to the Piazza de la Minerva and Bernini’s elephant with the obelisk to the shop that has the reputation of the Best Gelato in Rome. In Caffe Giolotti, you pay for your gelato before selecting a flavor. This is unusual for most gelaterías, in which you typically select your flavor, receive your gelato, and pay afterwards.
Several students were inspired to comment on the gelatería. Stephanie’s selection of lemon and strawberry were a good mix, she says. Though she believes that “it was pretty good,” she reassures that the gelatería on the Campo is still her favorite shop. Paul Lang comments, “It definitely has the aura that the best gelato place in Rome should have, with the paying before you order, and the guy with the bowtie serving you.” In addition, he acknowledged that the shop has “a good selection of flavors, and the prices are reasonable.” However, he was disappointed by his own selection, saying, “I had grapefruit because I thought it was orange; it was an orange color. It was tangy, but not that tasty.” To listen to this interview, open the attached wav file.
While students universally agree that the Caffe Giolotti was worth a return trip, a common frustration was the inability to find the gelato shop on subsequent tries! When searching for this elusive fountain of gelato goodness, try the road that leads away from the Pantheon past Albergo Abruzzi and veer towards the right.
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Highlights |
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One highlight for me among the plethora of churches viewed today was the collection of three Caravaggio paintings in the San Luigi dei Francesi church. Though change was required to view the paintings with electric light, the art was certainly worth the pennies. The central painting featured "St. Matthew and the Angel" and was painted at the turn of the 16th century. The other two paintings were hung on either side and featured "The Calling of St. Matthew" and "The Martyrdom of St. Matthew." These paintings are distinguished by what Eliana so aptly described as their realistic depictions of religious narratives.
Other daily highlights include comparing and contrasting the churches, which was easier to do with the fresh experience of both Baroque and Gothic churches in mind. Hadrian's temple was only viewed from the outside and did not prove to be very thrilling, but the quiet Piazza de Sant'Ignazio suggested enjoyable evening entertainment and featured a stately balcony fit for any theater.
Another highlight was the visit to Bernini's elephant with an obelisk on its back. When we asked about the story behind the elephant, we were told that many obelisks were being erected all over Rome by various artists and that Bernini added one to the elephant as a joke. The elephant glances over one shoulder, seemingly unencumbered by the large mountain of stone resting upon its back.
The Caffe Giolotti provided a refreshing break from church analysis. Many students ordered a type of orange colored gelato, while others went for an already established favorite. I fall into the latter category and enjoyed excellent stracciatella, although it took me a few moments to understand that I was supposed to pay for the gelato first and then pass the ticket to the bow-tie clad gelato clerk behind the counter.
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Images |
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| Bernini's elephant and obelisk |
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| Caffe Giolotti |
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The picture of the day goes to the photo of the group posing next to Bernini's profound sculpture of the elephant with the obelisk. This was taken just a few steps from the Pantheon, near the Piazza Sant'Ignazio, and features a darling elephant with a rather large obelisk perched cheerily on its back. The elephant sculpture is located in the Piazza de la Minerva. If you want a postcard of this monument and don’t mind that the full obelisk is not pictured, don’t look in a nearby souvenir stand. The only shop that sells these postcards is the Librería Fahrenheit 451 on the Campo.
The second picture shows the outside of Caffe Giolotti and a few happy students enjoying what is proclaimed to be the best gelato in Rome. Be cautious of the orange flavor you order, as a grapefruit masquerading for orange may disappoint you. Notice that most of the students are standing; if you want to avoid chastising from the employees, who will dismiss you from your seat outside the café, you should stand outside as well. What this image does not show is the large selection of flavors that this gelatería offers. The interior is surprisingly large and will offer even the pickiest dessert connoisseur a tempting variety. Just be sure to pay for your gelato before you begin to drool over the different flavors.
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