View Article: Piazza della Rotonda
University of Washington Honors Program in Rome


Piazza della Rotonda
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  Piazza
 


I chose the Piazza della Rotonda, which is the square in front of the Pantheon. It has a large fountain in the center and small steps leading down from the fountain that are usually covered with tourists and locals.

 
   
  Reason for Selection
 


I have battled the crowds of tourists filling this piazza several times because I have visited the Pantheon on every return journey that led me near. After striding through the piazza seven times, I finally chose to sit on the steps of the fountain and take in the view of the Pantheon from a lower perspective. The souvenir stand that always stands erect and waiting for visitors to indulge themselves in its goods occupies the same location every day. I wonder why other vendors do not fill the square, and how this single vendor manages to monopolize the best location in the area. The lack of several vendors in the area is one characteristic that attracts me.

This piazza is unique because it unofficially includes part of a building in its practical size. The crowds of people are seamless, stretching from one edge of the fountain, onto the patio underneath the Pantheon awning and, during the day, extending into the Pantheon itself. Even at night, the Pantheon is the off-center focus of attention, looming greenish and imposing over the entire piazza, sheltering those who choose to sit on the small seats offered at the edge of each supporting pillar. I enjoy watching the reactions different viewers have, and seeing locals return to the piazza day after day. Though a tourist attraction as much as the coliseum or Trevi Fountain, I feel that the Pantheon is different because of the piazza that provides a popular place for people to relax and admire the outside of the monument.

The obvious attraction of the Pantheon during the day does not die during the evenings, when restaurants and souvenir stands continue peddling to tourists. The square fills with Italians, and the entertainment on nights that I have visited ranges from simple stargazing and watching other people, to a live German band concert in full costume. The diversity that this square offers to the observer who casually strolls in and becomes part of the excitement at any part of the day is what makes this piazza stand out in my mind.


 
   
  Comparison
 


The Piazza della Rotonda is always crowded, despite its relatively small size. The piazza is not large and open like the Piazza del Popolo, nor do motors overrun the cobblestones, as in Piazza Venezia. Cars do not threaten pedestrians wildly, but meander more quietly through the surrounding streets. Unlike the Piazza del Quirinale, which is defined by the road that outlines it, this piazza draws its own dimensions, unencumbered by motorist preferences. It is definitely a piazza established for people to walk, saunter, or sit. In contrast, other piazzas, such as the Piazza della Repubblica, are occupied not by people but by guards for the government buildings lining the piazza. Similarly, the Piazza di Pietra is usually empty. People walk through but never linger in the piazza as they do in the Piazza della Rotonda.

The piazza itself has its own form and is not shaped by the buildings around it. In the Piazza della Repubblica, the buildings facing the piazza are curved to match the curve of the piazza. The buildings in the Piazza della Rotonda are less affected by their surroundings. The local cafes lining the square offer refreshments, while the McDonald’s provides evidence of strong catering to tourists. Like the lovers that lie at Bruno's feet in the Campo, local Italians settle upon the steps of the fountain that lies in the middle of Piazza della Rotonda.

The fountain does not shape the piazza, however, as in the Piazza della Repubblica. Instead, it fits into its surroundings. The fountain in the Piazza de Trevi commands one hundred percent of the viewer’s attention, while this piazza’s fountain does not. Everyone looks at Trevi fountain, while hardly anyone looks at the fountain in this piazza. Instead of being the center of attraction, as the three fountains in the Piazza Navona are, this one provides a gentle balance to the strong lines and curves of the Pantheon. The fountain and the main building split attention, as is the case in the Piazza Repubblica. The Pantheon calls more focus to itself, as does the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri in the Piazza Repubblica.

The last characteristic distinguishing this piazza is the lack of merchants. There are no merchandise tents lining the edges of the small piazza, as in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. Instead, café tables occupy two sides of the piazza. The Piazza di Trevi has multiple souvenir stands, while this piazza only has one. Instead of vendors selling Prada purses, a horse-drawn carriage rests at the front of the Pantheon every day, waiting for tourists to ask for a ride.


 
   
  Impression
 


Though I have visited the Pantheon numerous times during the brilliant sunshine of the day, the image that I take away from the Piazza della Rotonda is that of a square full of nothing but puddles. One day after sitting down to a quiet lunch with Annabelle in the Campo apartment, we heard claps of thunder and the first few drops of rain on the shutters. Our immediate and impromptu mission was to run to the Pantheon before the rain stopped. We ran through the increasing sheets of drizzle that fell from the gray clouds until we saw the backside of the Pantheon. Upon arriving in the Piazza della Rotonda, I was struck by the lack of people. Local Italians had filed into nearby bars and cafes. Tourists sought shelter underneath the Pantheon awning. The piazza remained empty, the fountain water indistinguishable from the drops pelting down onto the cobblestones. For an hour the piazza remained this way, empty and waiting for the torrential rain to stop so it could fill with visitors again.
This image remains distinct in my mind because it contrasts so strongly with the other visits that I have made to the area. Grumbling tourists hiding from Roman rain clouds missed the great view I had of the piazza that day. With my back to the fountain, streams of water flowing through my hair, onto my shoulders and off my dress, I saw the Pantheon patio full of colors that yielded to the giant green doors. Inside, the luminescent dome gaped and let the rain fall drop by drop onto the cold stone floor.