View Article: Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri
University of Washington Honors Program in Rome


Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri
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  Church
 


The church built to honor Saint Maria, located in Piazza Repubblica, is my favorite church. The full name is written over the doorway and reads Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri.

 
   
  Reason for Selection
 


Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri is my favorite church for its location, structure, and inner ambience. The last characteristic will be further detailed in the next section of this entry. The church is located on the Piazza Repubblica, occupying a commanding location at the head of the piazza when walking on the Via Nazionale. This location on the edge of a busy square is unique, as many churches are more quietly tucked away, like Santa Maria sopra Minerva. A second church with similar public exposure is San Giovanni in Laterano, which also sits at an active intersection.

Due to its commanding location at the head of the Piazza Repubblica, the church calls much attention to its crumbling brown exterior, providing a charming impression of a church devoted to the worship of God and not to the upkeep of worldly appearances. The large piazza that it rests on gives the church plenty room for advertisement, as evidenced by the large sign legible from across the piazza. The outer façade separates this church from others because it lacks large windows facing the square. Instead of a modern, rectangular front, the church is more rounded, like the curvy piazza that it occupies.

The abstract bronze angel statue that greets you upon entering the church surprises unsuspecting visitors, who may criticize its place in a serious place of worship. However, the church commissioned this intriguing statue, which stands in the front center of the cathedral. Another unusual feature of this statue is the fact that it obscures the main altar of the church. This forces visitors to walk around, admiring the statue, to fully view the front altar. Usually the front altar of a church is immediately visible upon entering a church. Instead, in Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri, a more indirect approach distinguishes the church.


 
   
  Description
 


The first impression that a visitor may encounter in Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri is that of tranquility, for this church has a relaxed atmosphere. It carries the aura of a place to rest and ponder the glory of God. There are no tour guides waving flags to call their group over to the Pietá, nor are there hoards of students taking notes on the large paintings. Instead, local devotees occupy the pews. Light spills in through the windows and an upward glance reveals a glass dome in the entry.

The best time of the day to visit this church is in the morning, during the hours of 9 and 11. The interior is surprisingly large and well lit. The bronze angel visible upon entry is impossible to miss, but don’t forget to look around the rest of the church as well. Inside, visitors will appreciate the simple white arches of the ceiling, unadorned by gaudy woodwork or exaggerated frescoes. The glass dome above the entry spills light into the cathedral in lovely rays, illuminating the paintings in the front of the church. The windows lining the sidewalls of the church have a typical grid design but appear more beautiful from the inside than most windows of similar pattern do.

The people who frequent the church are the local worshippers, often older women. Fewer tourists venture into this church, as there are no famous Caravaggio paintings or Michelangelo statues. However, the casual visitor should not discriminate against this church for lack of artistic renown or because of the crumbly brown brick exterior. The inside of the church is charming for its natural lighting, deep dimensions, and devoted worshippers. The main cathedral extends far into the back of the church, leading down a long corridor lined with gorgeous colored marble. Figures in the tall wall frescoes peer down at worshippers who walk towards the front altar. The central altar is itself intricately designed and decorated in lavish color.


 
   
  Memorable Visit
 


The first time I entered the church, the rainbows adorning the marble floor and highlighting the paintings in the round entry cove called my attention. At first I thought the colors were due to stained glass, but as I looked up at the simple grid windows letting in floods of white light, I realized that the deep violets and bright oranges were due to the angle of the sun through the glass. As a cloud passed over the light rays penetrating the church windows, the rainbows vanished. A moment later, the rainbows reappeared, enchanting me with their simple beauty and illuminating the bronze angel that seemed to fight for its right to fly gleefully around the church corridor.

The unexpected beauty provided by these windows took me by surprise and made this a memorable visit for me. The bronze wings of the angel sculpture glistening in the colors of the rainbow and the already lovely frescoes dressed in additional hues was too enchanting to forget.

Upon exploring the rest of the church and returning the entry alcove, I stood in the pool of rainbow rays streaming through one window. With delight, I observed the colors wrapping around my legs.

This was the first time I had entered the church. Several trips to exhibitions walked me past this church, when I contented myself to simply stare curiously at the crumbling exterior and the long name. Going inside provided an experience well worth the time to tie a scarf around my shoulders.

 
   
  Image
 
 
Describe your favorite church.
 


Although the inside of the church is what elevated it to status as my favorite, the exterior is what I saw several times before ever entering. This picture shows the church as it appears from the piazza on which it sits. The outer walls are dirty and the brick is rough. However, the words reading the name are visible in neatly written letters on the two white boards visible in the middle left of the picture. The cross prominently placed in the center of the front also identifies the building as a church. Though a common Catholic and Christian symbol, I have often observed that many churches are indiscernable as churches from the outside and this was a characteristic that drew my attention.

What this image does not show is the rest of the piazza that the church sits on. It lies at the head of the piazza and commands a position of much attention. The crumbly bricks are picturesque to me, as they contrast so sharply with the immaculate and tastifully decorated interior. It is this image of the outside of the church that remains in my mind.