View Article: Melancholy of the Antique World
University of Washington Honors Program in Rome


Melancholy of the Antique World
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  Part 1:
 
When the Colosseum was built it was truly glorified by the Roman people. It represented something that had the power to bring all Romans together; sports. Regardless of age, gender, social status or wealth, all Romans could gather together at the Colosseum and be united in Roman pride. The Colossuem was gigantic, externally measuring 188 by 156 meters. It could seat 50,000 spectators. It was truly splendid both architecturally and in function. It was the pride of Rome and all who had the opportunity to see it were in awe of its magnificence. That moment when the gladiator triumphed and sunk his sword into his aggressor all of Rome was united. At that moment of ecstasy, nothing else mattered. It represented the Roman immortality; as long as the Colosseum was standing the Roman society would be remembered in all its glory. The Colosseum was Rome

Last week I visited the Colosseum for the first time. As I approached it I couldn’t believe my eyes. It was so immense it practically swallowed everything around it. My eyes were drawn to it and as I approached I couldn’t even look at anything else; I just gazed in wonder. I was so excited to get closer I could feel myself actually speed-walking in the 90 degree weather to get there as quickly as possible. I was a little confused as I approached and tore my eyes away from the massive arches and columns; there were tourist traps swarming the premises that I hadn’t noticed before. Why were there men dressed up as gladiators walking around, and why were they smoking? Even worse, why were people paying money to pose with these imposters? I couldn’t believe how touristy and tasteless the Colosseum had become! I felt sickened, and thoroughly disappointed at the site before me.

At that moment I understood what Flaubert meant when he said the “melancholy of the antique world.” The Colosseum, like the Roman Forum, represented Roman immortality. It represented the best of Roman society. Now it is little more then a tourist trap. One should leave the Colosseum with admiration of the Romans, amazement even, at such a beautiful society who could create something so glorious. The Romans had preserved their immortality through the Colosseum. They maintained a certain power as a society that would never dissipate as long as their great works remained to represent who they were. Any power that the Colosseum may have held is long gone. It disappeared the moment that people lost respect for the building as a symbol of the Roman people.

I left the Colosseum with a profound sense of disappointment that humanity had ruined something that was once so beautiful and great. It is truly a tragedy that the world has so little respect for precious monuments such as the Colosseum that stand for so much more then just a money making opportunity. We desecrate their memory and crush any hint of immortality residing in their walls. And for what? Just a few dollars here and there, a little bit of profit, insignificant in the scope of life. The actual Colosseum will never again be magical to me. It is nothing more then a place to stay away from when I visit and ignore when I walk by.

I did find one small glimmer of hope, however, in an otherwise frustrating experience. Once inside, I was immediately overwhelmed again at how many people were shoving around trying to get the best view of the inner floor. Out of frustration I pushed my way to the edge of the outside wall to breathe for a second away from all the loud and aggressive tourists. I was leaning against the wall and I turned around to get some fresh air. From my perch, through one of the open arches lining the outer wall of the Colosseum, I could see all of Rome spreading out before me. The gladiators were so close to the base of the building that they were not in my view range (thank god) so all I saw was Rome with me in the center of it. My breath caught and for just a flash I felt like a proud Roman citizen looking over my city with satisfaction. At that moment I realized that the gladiators can ruin the Colosseum but they can’t ruin the entire city. Although it was not the feeling I expected, it was a brief, but satisfying, flash of Roman immortality nonetheless. I realized that although Flaubert’s melancholy of the antique world is very real indeed, it is not all consuming. If one looks hard enough, there is always some hope to be found.
 
   
  Part 2:
 
The Forum at Pompeii left with me a profound sense of sadness, not toward humanity, like at the Roman Forum and the Colosseum, but more of a general sense of loss. Walking through the ruins I didn’t notice human nature mutilating the meaning of the Forum, as I did at the Colosseum, or not truly appreciating its splendor, like at the Roman Forum. What I took away from that experience was a much more ethereal sensation of devastating loss.

The Forum at Pompeii was so impressive, seeing it really pushed me to imagine what the culture that created it must have been like. It was not as showy and grand as that in Rome, but was seemingly more efficient. It appeared to be organized with the intent of amplifying effectiveness, with the basilica on one end and the marketplace on the other. At the same time, it was beautifully crafted and the remains of the buildings really did invoke admiration in all who the saw them. I get the impression of power and strength of the people of Pomepii when I walk through its Forum. It genuinely saddens me that nature, of all things, was responsible for decimating the mortality of the entire city in one day.

Like the Roman Forum and the Colosseum, the Forum at Pompeii was damaged and reduced to less then its original splendor. Like the Roman Forum and the Colosseum, there is still a glimmer of what it once was remaining despite all forces against it. However, there is one significant difference between the buildings in Rome and in Pompeii. Those in Rome were destroyed slowly, over time, by our own humanity. The Forum at Pompeii met a much more swift, and in some ways sad, demise at the hands of nature. It makes me wonder if Pompeii, such a great and powerful city, was extinguished so abruptly because by chance, or because it was heading in a direction that would eventually lead to some greater sorrow?