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Pantheon Assignment |
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written
by ninamil7 / 10.24.2005 |
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Part 1: |
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Sometimes I just hate people. I really do. I hate being bumped into, and I hate being so close to a stranger that I can feel them breathing on me. I can’t stand having my view blocked by someone’s head or not being able to hear what I’m listening for because of someone’s chatter. I hate feeling trapped and being unable to reach my destination because I am surrounded by people walking slowly with no direction at all. I realize that hate is a strong word, but sometimes, like after a midday visit to the Pantheon, you just have to use it.
My first visit to the Pantheon was during the afternoon. Upon entering, I could immediately see the impressive dome ceiling and perfectly round oculus projecting a circle of light onto the wall, but I couldn’t keep my attention on those things. Instead I was forced to deal with the swarms of people that were around me. I had to weave through the crowds until I could find a patch of empty marble on the ground large enough for me to breath. Once I made it there, I hurried to take in the beauty of this circular space and impressiveness of the design before I was forced to move yet again. After just a few minutes, I gave up and pushed my way out of the front doors.
My next visit came right around closing time. I assumed the later time of day would mean fewer crowds, but I was surprised to see the place almost just as busy as if it were the middle of the day. I was surprised, disappointed, and irritated all at the same time. The building itself didn’t seem especially different to me compared to the afternoon. There was no circle of light beaming through the oculus this time, but there were some artificial lights turned on to illuminate the walls and ceiling. My patience ran short as a large school group cut in front of me chattering loudly and flashing the room with dozens of shots from their cameras. I had to leave.
I put off my final visit to the Pantheon until very near the end of the trip. Honestly, I just didn’t want to go back in there. When I finally forced myself to make that morning visit, I was beyond pleasantly surprised. I walked passed the stubby columns just outside and into the wide open space with hardly another person in sight. It was wonderful. At last I was able to see this building in all its glory, stripped of the bothersome crowds and distracting camera flashes. I took a seat on a bench along the periphery and just sat there for a long time. I could finally see all the tombs and paintings that filled the little niches along the wall. I watched as a light rain fell through the oculus and gently splashed onto the marble floor directly below. The entire space was so quiet. A little sneeze or a quiet cough resonated from across the building and lingered in the air as if trapped for a moment. As the first signs of the day’s usual crowds started to appear, I decided it was time to get out of there.
What a difference a time of day makes.
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Part 2: |
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Upon entering the Pantheon in the early morning without, the first thing my eye is drawn to is the altar straight ahead. This is no surprise considering that it is indeed straight ahead. What happens next is slightly less expected. In one complete turn, I am able to slowly but surely take in all that this building has to offer. My head is directed up toward the ceiling where the depressed squares get smaller and smaller until I am drawn to the perfectly circular oculus at the top. From here my eyes fall back toward the ground where they are caught midway by the decorative columns and niches along the walls. Finally I come to the floor with its carefully designed circle and square motif. The ability to just stand in one place and see everything there is to see is particular to this place.
Just a short walk away from the Pantheon lays the Piazza Navona. Upon entering any one of the piazza’s entryways, I have to walk a considerable distance to see everything there is to see. From vendors and fountains in the middle to restaurants, hotels, and churches around the outer edge, there is always a lot going on in this place. No matter where I enter, my attention is always drawn first to Bernini’s masterpiece at the center, the Four River Fountain. As I near the fountain it becomes clear that there is no single vantage point to offer a satisfactory view. I have to circle the piece to find out where the head of the lion is or who is on the other side of the travertine base. As I circle the fountain, I in turn end up circling the entire piazza, getting a better view of everything around me. This distinct directionality surprised me at first, but also made me appreciate the power of strategic design.
I saw less of a directing effect in the Piazza di Sant’Ignazio. This theatrical space is situated between a number of side streets so that it acts as more of a place to pass through than a place to stay. Had it not been for this prompt, I probably never would have stopped on my way through this piazza. As I walked through, the curved Caribinieri building first stole my attention, then I was drawn to the space as a whole. It has a very enclosed feeling, with tall buildings all around. Most of the ground is shady except when the sun rests directly above at midday. With nothing around to really grab hold of my attention, I left this piazza after only a short stay.
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