View Article: Pantheon: Exploration of space
University of Washington Honors Program in Rome


Pantheon: Exploration of space
The Pantheon 1 of 1

  Part 1:
 
As I walked into the Pantheon a few minutes after opening, my first impression was of the vastness of the space. No longer filled with people, the entire space was open to me, the only person inside, aside from one staff member sweeping the marble floor. The light from the oculus barely grazed the inside of the ceiling, the sun just beginning its sweep across the building. The whistling of the woman cleaning eerily breaks the silence with an almost haunting sound. Aside from the woman’s repetitive tune in the background, the Pantheon is very tranquil. I find gazing up at the oculus and absorbing the sky it frames oddly peaceful. My moment of serenity is broken however, as the tour groups begin to invade the building.

My first experience in the Pantheon was during midday, and I must admit, I was not entirely as impressed as I had thought I should be. Navigating our way through the crowds to reach the interior only led to even more masses of people. I felt as if I had just walked into a pen of sheep, and almost expected to feel a border collie nipping at my heels. The only way I broke the irritating buzz of tour guides shouting and tourists snapping flash pictures was to stare up at the oculus. Focusing on the large portal, I was able to block out the chaos of that around me. It only lasted for a moment though, as an elbow in my side jostled me back to reality.

Entering the Pantheon ten minutes before closing, I was mildly disappointed as there were still people milling around and the interior was lit with an abundance of artificial light. I had expected it to be similar to my morning experience, only with less light. However, I remained patient and sat down on a bench and watched people as they made their final rounds of the circular interior. Once the majority of the tourists had left and the lights were shut off, I finally felt satisfied. The oculus was once again restored to its true purpose as the sole provider of light. The darkness of the interior led to an even greater contrast between the fading light of the evening sky and the shadowed dome of the Pantheon. Loosing myself in the oculus’ gaze, I almost miss the fact that I am the last one to leave and have to be ushered out by an apathetic staff member.
 
   
  Part 2:
 
To me, the central focus of the Pantheon is the oculus. I find the interior walls to be gaudy and out of place in the building that was originally designed as a temple. Each time I have visited the Pantheon, which has come to a grand total of five times, I find myself drawn to the large domed ceiling and the oculus at the top. I always find a sort of tranquility in gazing at the circular portal framing the sky, be it a clear blue, muddied with clouds or illuminated by lightening. As the light from the oculus moves around the interior throughout the day, it always redirects my focus to its point of origin. Despite often being full of noisy tourists, I can always seem to find a sanctuary in gazing up at the oculus.

Entering the Piazza Navona, it is often difficult for me to find a single focus, as the antics of the crowd often supersede that of their surroundings. However, I do consistently find myself to be drawn to the tall obelisk that is supported by Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers. It is the highest point in the piazza, and visible from anywhere in the space. The Piazza Navona is often a busy place: tourists crowding for pictures, vendors selling their wares, gypsies serenading café customers, even the Statue of Liberty makes an appearance. It is accessible through many entrances and exits, making the Piazza approachable from almost any direction. It is this wide expanse of space that makes the obelisk a consistent focal point. Visible from any part of the Piazza, its strong erect shape outlined against the sky constantly draws my focus, no matter what my intent in the Piazza is.

Though they are both piazzas, the space of Piazza di Sant’Ignazio creates a much different feel than does that of Piazza Navona. It is not a large bustling square, but a quiet piazza in which people pass through on their way to other places. Arranged like layers of an onion, the unique curvature of the buildings draws my eye to the two flags at the middle of the center most building. With the buildings all painted in the same ochre color and white trim, their uniformity accentuates their shape. The space is conformed like a theatre, the buildings acting as the seats, curving around the center focal point at the front, as if the flags are the actors on stage.