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3 Settembre 2003...Villa Borghese |
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by Whitney Stoffel / 07.12.2004 |
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Itinerary |
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The group convened at the usual nine o'clock, and began the hike across town to the Villa Borghese. About half way to the park, Shawn called a halt to the procession, and pointed us into the Santa Maria della Concezione. The church was apparently a must see, but mysteriously our fearless leader remained outside as the students marched in. Once inside, it was obvious why he had remained at the door.
The walls and ceilings were covered with the bones of 4000 Capuchin friars, in an ornate "artistic" display. "Oh my god, that's the coolest thing I've ever seen" whispered Ben, but the others did not quite share his enthusiasm for the tomb. Skulls were piled into arches, shoulder blades constructed as alters, and even femurs fashioned into chandeliers. The overall mood of the "church" was definately creepy. On the end wall was a Latin inscription which read..."What you are, we used to be. What we are, you will be." Not the brightest of messages at nine thirty in the morning, but certainly summed up the theme of the shrine. The postcard shop at the exit was irresistible to most, and I am sure some of you parents will be receiving rather morbid mail within the next couple weeks.
Outside Shawn eagerly awaited our distorted faces, finding humor in his early morning surprise. After a few minutes of sinister discussions, we pressed onward to the Galleria Borghese.
The Galleria Borghese is a seventeenth century art museum, constructed by the opulent Cardinal Scipio Borghese. Scipio felt Italian art wasn't being preserved adequately, so he designed a gallery to house the finest sculptures and paintings in Rome. The musuem is a harmonious blend of gallery and art, as most of the pieces were commisioned by the rich Cardinal with a specific place mapped out for the work. The walls and ceilings are covered in frescoes, which complement the displayed pieces beautifully. As far as musuems go, it was definately the most lavish and well thought out ensemble of art I have ever seen.
Highlights include many captivating paintings by Carravagio, sculptures by Bernini and Canova, Raphael's "Entombment", and Titian's "Sacred and Profane Love". While all of the works were breathtaking, my favorites had to be the Bernini sculptures. His vision of "David" was so different than any other depictions I have seen on this trip (Michaelangelo, Donatello, and many others), and I loved the moment he captured. While most artists sculpt David posing, Bernini crafted the exact instant he was flinging the stone to slay Goliath. The movement to the piece was extraordinary, and the life like facial expression was amazing. His other piece..."Apollo and Daphne"...was just as impressive. One had to view the piece from all sides to fully appreciate the intricacy of the work. Bernini froze the instant in time where Apollo is rushing to capture Daphne, but the Gods have taken pity on her, and transformed her into a tree. Again, a truly amazing piece of art, and the favorite of many students in the class. I won't bore you with any more art descriptions, but can only say words will never do these images justice...you must venture to Rome to see them for yourself!!!
After the musuem trip, the group dispersed and meandered back through Rome to the Campo. Another great morning walk completed. Isn't school fun with field trips every day????
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Highlights |
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The highlight of the day was the intense thunder shower which drenched Rome in the early afternoon. After a summer of blistering heat, the rain and cool temperatures were a welcome relief to the Romans, but sadly reminded the group of being in Seattle.
With Shawn's words of wisdom running through their heads, a gang of students rushed to the Pantheon to see drops of rain sprinkling through the eight meter hole in the dome. Being stuck in the computer lab all afternoon, I missed the excitement, but was well informed of how "cool" it was by my sopping wet peers that evening in class. Apparently, a column of water fills the center of the immense cavity, and it is quite captivating to follow single drops of rain as the fall to the floor. Tricky Romans thought of everything...the marble is concaved and sheets the water to the sides, where 22 holes allow the water to drain from the building.
Sorry I missed it, but maybe next time. For a more complete description of the inspirational event, peruse this week's assignments...I am sure it will be the topic for many writings.
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Images |
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| Bernini's "David" |
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| Galleria Borghese |
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The entrance to the musuem, and my favorite work inside.
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