An Eco-Lawns is composed of turf-grasses with deep root systems, therefore it cannot be sold as a sod. When an Eco-Lawn is cut like sod, its roots are severed and it dies. Since it‘s the deep roots which enables Eco-Lawns to be drought tolerant, it is sold in seed form. That said, Eco-Lawns once germinated will usually form a dense turf over a full growing season. When planting an Eco-lawn the same methods for establishing and maintaining a new lawn are pretty much the same. Some mixtures of turf have more fescue grasses or perennial plants in them, so the best tactic would be to read the directions for installation on the back of the package, or ask if there is a particular way of installation that the seller has found successful. Below are some general instructions for planting and maintaining lawns.

When installing a lawn, one must start from the ground up and make sure that the soil for the lawn has the proper nutrients and PH levels that the seed mix requires. In the Eco-lawns seed mixes there are plants that require less nitrogen in the soil, or can fix nitrogen themselves, such as Dutch clover, and some seed mixes are formulated to be drought tolerant and therefore wouldn't need as much amendment to the soil as others. If your seed mix has tall fescue in it those plants are adapted to a wide range of soil conditions but grow best on fertile, well-drained soils with a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Again, picking a seed mix that works in your area, specially formulated for the temperatures and amount of rain-fall would be the best chance for establishing a lush green lawn.

When considering soil mixture around the Seattle area , Seattle Public Utilities recommends tilling the top six to 12 inches of soil, incorporating 2 inches of organic material for each six inches of soil. Make sure the seeds are completely surrounded by soil that is the right moisture for the mix. Spring or early fall are best times to plant for good germination and optimum weather conditions. Usually most Eco-lawn seed mixes will grow in full sun, part shade and even in deep shade conditions. While browsing the different seed mixtures the package or seller could recommend the method for installation. One example from Wildflower Farms Eco-Lawn seed mix states that it is, ”well suited to broadcast, drill and hydroseeding at a rate of 5 lbs. per 1,000 square feet or 220 lbs. per acre”, just to give you a general idea.

If your plant mix is comprised of mostly fescue here are some general parameters when to plant according to Cooperative Extension Service, University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences at http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/L354.htm

Cool season grasses such as fescue, grow best when the soil temperatures are between 50 and 65 degrees F.  These temperatures usually occur when the daytime air temperatures are between 60 and 75 degrees.  High temperatures of summer can cause these plants to go dormant and thus planting during summer is asking for problems.  Thus start planting your cool season grass seeds when the temperatures reach 75 and are dropping as fall / winter approaches.  Or have reached 60 and are rising in the spring.  Planting in summer can occur, but irrigation becomes a critical factor in establishment.  Planting when night time temperatures are above 70 should be avoided

Dormancy often occurs in Fescues growth at temperatures above 90 and below 50 degrees. Basically they stop growing when dormancy occurs.  Also, be aware that a freezes and/or frost can damage or kill immature seedlings that have not had enough growing time to harden off to survive a return to dormancy.

Below are methods for installation of a lawn taken from www.grassing.com that can be used for establishing whichever Eco-lawn you choose.

• Planting on a prepared seed bed (bare soil / harrowed or tilled).

• Planting in an existing grass lawn.

• Broadcasting on top of the soil / lawn area.

• Planting early in season or out of season.

• Planting over snow.

• Planting with erosion mats.

• Hydroseeding.

• Planting with a slit seeder or turfgrass seeder.

Planting on a prepared seed bed (bare soil).

Planting on a prepared seed bed is the best choice.  This is because you have removed a lot of competition by killing any existing "adult" weeds or other plants.  Little seedlings grow better when they don't have to compete for food, water and sunshine that an existing plant would also want and basically take first (being the big bully).  Secondly a prepared seed bed has reduced compaction of the soil allowing the roots to push through and grow (find water and nutrients) easier and faster.  Third a prepared seed bed usually insures that "seed/soil" contact is better.  The only drawbacks are having to till up an existing lawn area (perhaps killing an existing lawn) and the fact that you have bare dirt for a period of time until the new grass can establish.

Planting in an existing grass lawn.

Planting seeds into an existing lawn is somewhat harder to obtain good germination because seed / soil contact is often less.  The key is to somehow increase the seed to soil contact.  Cool season grasses usually work better (germinate easier) with this method than will warm season grasses.  Aeration (using some type of spike or plug aerator, or a vertical mower to produce slits in soil) prior to seeding helps increase the likelihood of individual seeds falling next to soil and hopefully being slightly covered by soil due to wind / rain action.  Most often experts recommend higher seeding rates because a certain percentage of the seedlings are going to fail, either due to competition from existing grass or the inability to properly germinate due to seed / soil contact problems.  Even raking the area before or after broadcasting seeds can help increase germination and create better seed / soil contact and/or coverage.

Broadcasting on top of the soil / lawn area.

This method is dependent on the amount of seed / soil contact that can occur and also on the type of grass planted (cool season / warm season).  Warm season grasses will RARELY germinate if they simply are laying on top of the ground, unless some action (walking, rain, raking, etc.) causes them to become covered by soil.  Cool season grasses on the other hand may partially germinate as they will occasionally germinate with less coverage / soil contact... In fact, ryegrasses have the ability to easily germinate with just good contact with the soil.  Fescues and Bluegrasses require more contact for good germination to occur.  Again, any method used; aeration, raking, covering with top soil, etc helps increase germination. 

Planting early in season or out of season.

If you decide to plant too early or too late, perhaps weather giving you spring fever prematurely, or waiting too late in the fall to plant.... Don't expect germination to be as good (or perhaps NOT at all).  First seeds require specific planting temperatures to germinate. SECONDLY they require a certain amount of growing time at proper temperatures and conditions (rainfall, soil nutrients available, etc.) to grow to a mature enough size to survive any dormancy caused by either high or low temperatures or other weather extremes.  Grass seedlings are like babies... you don't put babies outside in temperatures below 55 degrees or above 80 degrees without some additional protection to survive.  There are "dormant" seeds in some grasses that are natures way of preserving the species.  These seeds lay successfully dormant while waiting for the correct temperatures and weather conditions to occur before beginning germination.  Often these seeds are one that are called "un-hulled" seeds.  Removing hulls on seeds results in quicker germination, thus breaking natures dormancy protection.

Same goes for your "baby" grass seedlings.  

Plant at the right time of year for your type of grass (Early Spring / Early Fall for cool season grasses / Late Spring / Early Summer for warm season grasses.).  You can in some instance plant outside normal times, but just be aware that the risks are higher.  Either rot of seeds from excess cold / moist soil can occur... or freeze / frost kill by late cold temperatures after seeds germinate due to an early warm up.

Planting over snow .

Cool season grasses (Perennial Ryegrasses, Fescues, Bluegrasses) can be successfully planted on top of snow for winter planting.  What happens is that the seeds are carried downward to soil level by melting snow in the spring.  At that times cracks are present in the soil from the freezing temps of winter that the seeds can be "melted" into.  This provides for reasonable seed / soil contact.  The disadvantages are the same as for planting out of season above... a higher risk that this method may have some failures.

Planting with erosion mats .

Seeds can be covered by "erosion mats" that help prevent erosion.  However for best results, the seeds still need to have good seed / soil contact for germination to occur.  Simply covering the seeds with an erosion matting material does NOT insure better germination.  The mats are to help prevent erosion (and thus washing away of seeds).  Not to increase actual germination.

Hydroseeding

Modern hydroseeding methods, when correctly done help maintain good soil moisture in the top soil.  The hydroseeding machine also slightly forces the seeds (by pressure) into the top soil to be covered by soil, thus ensuring better germination.  Some seeds also benefit slightly by the soaking inside a tank of water prior to planting.  Usually you also get more uniform application of seeds when mixed correctly and applied correctly.  This method should be only done by a qualified applicator.

Planting with a turfgrass or slit seeder.

Commercially designed "turf" seeders are available for planting grasses.  Some are built to plant in prepared soils (Brillion seeders).  Others have what are called slit discs (slit seeders / No-till & grain drills).  The discs slice very narrow holes in your soil / lawn and direct the seeds through tubes to drop into these slits, thus ensuring better seed / soil contact.  They are excellent devices for seeding into existing lawns in order to improve either the variety planted or the total stand.  These planters are available from small walk behind models to large tractor types.

Another method from www.fescue.com is listed below if you have a fescue grass mix:

Plant 5 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet using a mechanical spreader. Divide the seed into two equal parts and spread half in one direction and the other half at a right angle to the first direction. After seeding, lightly rake or drag the area to cover the seed to a depth of about 1/4 inch, and then lightly roll the soil to firm the seedbed. Applying a straw mulch is beneficial, especially on slopes; it helps prevent erosion and retains moisture for rapid germination.

Irrigation

When establishing an Eco-lawn water the lawn as much as you would water a normal lawn for the first summer or two until the root system is established. After that however, Eco-lawns only need water every month or so during the summer months to keep the dormant grasses alive. Don't worry, your lawn won't turn brown during the summer, the mixture of other plants will stay green throughout the summer.

Mowing

Mowing an Eco-lawn is optional. Some turf mixes will have grasses that will grow to be 4”-9” long, but bend over and lay down to form more of a lush carpet about 3” high. Other turf mixes have been tested to withstand mowing and can be mowed like a regular lawn and will still be green. If you cut an Eco-Lawn short in late fall, it can green up quickly the following spring as it won't have to fight through the remains of the previous year's growth. If you leave it unmowed, it will still "green up" but it could take about two weeks longer to be totally green than it would if you had mowed it in the autumn- an idea similar to conventional lawns.

Fertilization

Most Eco-lawn mixes have been formulated to need little if any fertilization. If one decides to use a mulch-mower, it could return enough nitrogen to the soil to not need additional fertilizer for the lawn. Some seed mixes have been formulated to include plants that fertilize the soil themselves so no fertilizer is needed.

Pest Control

Most Eco-lawn mixes have been formulated to not need herbicides. Due to the combination of plants, weeds will find it difficult to grow in competition and bugs that normally appear in conventional lawns such as June Bugs have not been found in Eco-lawns due to the dry soil, (from infrequent watering), and the dry environment isn't susceptible to laying eggs. Bugs that prefer exotic grasses found in high maintenance lawns such as the cinch bug won't take roost either, and bugs used to the Kentucky Blue grass won't find any if at all so they probably won't establish themselves either. If the Eco-lawn seed mix is made up of mostly tall fescue the most commonly troublesome bugs are armyworms, sod webworms and white grubs, however the other perennials and grass seeds should compete with the fescue to not make it the dominant plant in the lawn- so the problem should be small if at all existant in your Eco-lawn.