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Growing Epimedium

Can you recommend some Epimedium species and tell me what kind of conditions they prefer?

 

The resources I consulted say that most Epimedium species prefer part shade, and most are evergreen. Some will tolerate a partly sunny site as long as the soil does not dry out.

Epimedium perralderianum has bronze leaves that turn green and last throughout the year. It blooms in March/April.

Epimedium x rubrum prefers shade, so if your site is partly sunny, this might not be the ideal choice.

Collectors Nursery in Battleground, WA, also carries several varieties.

One gardening website, Paghat’s Garden, has especially good information.
The site developer recommends in particular the following varieties:
Epimedium x versicolor ‘Sulphureum’, or Yellow Epimedium – for its evergreen foliage
Epimedium grandiflorum ‘Lilafee’ – for quite striking lavender flowers and evergreen foliage

Richie Steffen, curator of the Elisabeth C. Miller Garden, is the author of “Epimediums” Queens of the Woodland” published in Pacific Horticulture, April 2008.

A recent book, The Plant Lover’s Guide to Epimediums by Sally Gregson, has excellent illustrations as well as information.

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growing under Thuja

I have a large Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata, I think!) under which grow a few weeds but not much else. I would like to find a low maintenance solution for the ground that won’t do any harm to it. Ground cover? Pea gravel? I worry that the shallow root system can be easily smothered so that adding soil and plants is not a good idea, plus the roots are a dense mat and difficult to dig through. Do you have any ideas or suggestions? What native plants might grow under the tree and how can I get them established?

 

As you’ve realized, Western red cedars have a dense mat of roots close to the surface. It’s not a good idea to add soil on top of the roots of trees because their root flare should remain above the soil — and even if you did, the roots of cedars would spread into that soil in a short period of time. It’s also important to keep in mind that under natural conditions the ground beneath Thuja plicata is usually bare of other plants.

If the area beneath your tree isn’t in deep shade and has at least some sun, you could plant spring ephemerals, including bulbs. They emerge in spring when the soil has plenty of moisture, then most die back before our summer droughts. They’re not difficult to plant under large trees because you don’t need to dig a large hole for seeds, bulbs, or small bare-root perennials. Good choices are Anemone blanda, Aquilegia (Columbine), Corydalis lutea, Crocus, Galanthus (snowdrops), Iris reticulata, and various kinds of Narcissus, including daffodils. Most tulips are not long-lived in our area. Hardy Cyclamen emerge and flower at other times of the year, but they’re also an excellent choice. Unfortunately, most of these plants are summer-dormant, when you’ll probably be out in your garden, and some self-seed prolifically under ideal conditions. A valuable resource, available for checkout at the Miller Library, is Planting the Dry Shade Garden, by Graham Rice (2011). Some of the plants he recommends will require regular watering under cedars.

Another option, also feasible if your area has some sun, is to plant our native Western sword fern (Polystichum munitum). It’s evergreen, so has a presence all year, and is the most sun and drought tolerant of our native ferns. I have a 60 foot red cedar in my garden, and have successfully maintained sword ferns beneath it in partly sunny areas, but not in deep shade, where they’ve died out. However, because they won’t survive our summer droughts in nature under these conditions, I’ve needed to water them about every 3 weeks in order to keep them alive. I’ve planted fairly small plants and watered them more often than that during their first year. If your soil is very sandy, sword ferns might not do well.

If you require a reliably showy solution, staging large planters planted with annuals or perennials, shrubs and/or trees might be best. The plants you choose will depend upon how much sun the area receives. Of course, they’ll need to be watered regularly, but large planters don’t need watering as often as small ones. If your hose-bib is not too far away, installing drip irrigation on a timer will ensure that your plants survive when you’re away from home.

shade tolerant rhodie

Do you have a recommendation for a particularly shade tolerant rhodie? I have dappled shade, but also some areas of fairly deep shade. I’m in the Portland, OR area.

Generally speaking, rhododendrons are tolerant of shade, but need some light if they are to produce flowers. According to Rhododendrons in America by Ted Van Veen (Binford & Mort, 1969), “the larger the leaf, the more shade required … In the Pacific Northwest … most varieties look their best if they have about one-third shade when the sun is warm.”

Dappled shade should be fine for most rhododendrons, but deep shade might mean that you end up with a non-flowering shrub. Look for large-leaved species or hybrids. These are sometimes referred to as elepidotes (generally, this term refers to hybrids with large leaves and flowers that grow in relatively large clusters).

Below are just a few examples of the hundreds of species and hybrids available. (Images and information from Oregon State University are included)

R. catawbiense

R. macrophyllum

Marjatta hybrids

Here is a list of Proven Performers for Oregon, from the American Rhododendron Society:

(These are the recommended large-leaved cultivars from the Portland Chapter:)

  • ‘Blue Peter’
  • ‘Cynthia’
  • ‘Lem’s Cameo’
  • ‘Mardi Gras’
  • ‘Mrs Furnival’
  • ‘Odee Wright’
  • ‘Taurus’
  • ‘The Hon. Jean Marie de Montague’
  • ‘Unique’

shade tolerant and low maintenance groundcovers

What is a good way to deal with a gravelly area with a lot of shade? Are there good groundcovers that would be low maintenance? Can the plants grow right in the gravel, or do I need to do something to the soil?

If it’s pure gravel, you can just make a border (with rocks and/or wood, preferably non-treated) and fill it with 9-12″ of soil. (No need to remove the gravel.) You buy soil by the cubic yard, so to figure out how much, multiply the length (feet) x width (feet) x depth (.75 or 1), then divide by 27 to get the number of yards. One yard of soil is 3′ x 3′ x 3′, or 27 cubic feet. My guess is that you need less than a yard, but it settles.

You can save money by buying the soil in bulk. Otherwise, you have to buy it by the bag, and they might come in cubic feet. If there is only some gravel, you may be able to get by with the soil/gravel mix that you have. See how much hardpan there is by digging around a little.

If you have lots of weeds in the gravelly area, try mulching the whole area with a thick layer of wood chips (freely available from arborists) Smothering weeds depends upon complete darkness more than anything.

Once you’ve done that, you can plant right away. Here are some plant suggestions. I’ve
included links to pictures, but you can always find more on Google images or
the Missouri Botanical Garden’s PlantFinder.

  1. Lobularia maritima, known as sweet alyssum: You can plant seeds of this and it will come up this year. It’s best to mix it with something else, since it dies down in winter (but self-seeds vigorously and will return). The white seeds the fastest (year to year), but it’s nice to mix with purple. Both varieties smell good and attract
    beneficial insects.
  2. Fragaria x ananassa ‘Pink Panda’: A strawberry-potentilla hybrid that grows fast and spreads easily, is good weed suppresser, and blooms twice a year with pink flowers. This is an excellent groundcover, will probably be evergreen.
  3. Pachysandra: This plant is evergreen, and though it is not as fast growing as some groundcovers, it does spread.
  4. Hardy Geranium spp.: Geranium x oxonianum ‘Claridge Druce’ is a variety that spreads well. Another good variety is Geranium endressii ‘Wargrave’s Pink’; in particular, it seeds itself well. Geranium macrorrhizum has many cultivars, a pleasant scent, and self-seeds readily.
  5. Galium odoratum: Also called sweet woodruff, this plant is prettily scented, probably evergreen here, and spreads fairly rapidly. It produces white flowers in early spring, and it would be particularly good to mix with something taller, like Geranium species.
  6. Oxalis oregana: This native plant looks like a shamrock, and though it is slow to establish, once it has it’s very
    tough and spreads. If you don’t get the native Oxalis oregana be careful, as the other species are very aggressive.
  7. Euonymus spp.: These woody groundcover plants are evergreen, and come in lots of varieties like
    E. fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’Gold’ and ‘Emerald Gaiety’. Do be sure to get a groundcover and not a shrub version of the plant. ‘Emerald and Gold’ is the most robust choice.
  8. Convallaria majalis: Also known as lily of the valley, this is a vigorous (aggressive!) groundcover.
  9. Maianthemum dilatatum: Called false lily of the valley, this native plant is a good choice for shade groundcover.
  10. Polystichum munitum: The native swordfern (or another fern species) might work. P. munitum is basically evergreen, though you might need to cut out some dead fronds in late winter, and makes a good mix with something else. Other deciduous ferns are higher maintenance.

There are also a couple of plants to avoid!

  1. DON’T plant Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’: Commonly called bishop’s weed, and frequently used as a groundcover, this plant is very invasive.
  2. DON’T plant Lamium galeobdolon (formerly known as Lamiastrum), either: Yellow archangel is very invasive in Pacific Northwest forests.

shrubs and low trees that will grow in the shade

Can you suggest some shade shrubs/low trees that could be used in the bottom quarter of a huge, years-old pile of yardwaste and branches that is now a 20 foot cliff? I have started with some Vinca minor in the lower part but could use some ideas of some things to plant that might get 15 feet tall, evergreen, and grow in woods/shade or sun through trees.

The closest list I could find to meet your needs is one of evergreen shrubs that will grow in shade:

Japanese aucuba – Aucuba japonica vars.

common boxwood – Buxus sempervirens

camellia – Camellia sp.

gilt edge silverberry – Elaeagnus x ebbingei ‘Gilt Edge’

Euonymus – Euonymus fortunei radicans

Japanese aralia – Fatsia japonica

drooping Leucothoe – Leucothoe fontanesiana

Oregon grape – Mahonia aquifolium

Burmese mahonia – Mahonia lomariifolia

longleaf mahonia – Mahonia nervosa

holly leaf osmanthus – Osmanthus heterophyllus vars.

English laurel – Prunus laurocerasus ‘Mount Vernon’

Japanese skimmia – Skimmia japonica

evergreen huckleberry – Vaccinium ovatum

nannyberry – Viburnum lentago

Source: The Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Book of Lists, by R. & J. McNeilan, 1997, p. 46-47

 

on shade gardening

Which flowers can be planted in the shade?

 

The University of Minnesota Extension Service article entitled, “Gardening in the Shade” provides lists of annuals, perennials and herbs that do well in the shade.

Gardening with Ed Hume offers advice about growing plants in shady areas under tall trees.

For resources specific to the Pacific Northwest, try the list of shade perennials from Paghat’s Garden, Great Plant Picks, King County’s searchable Native Plant Guide, and lists of native plants for mostly to fully shady sites Washington Native Plant Society. There are also numerous books available in the Miller Library. Here is a booklist.

Garden Tip #85

If you think a shady garden is a liability there is a good book that will change your mind. Gardening in the Shade (Horticulture Books, 2004) was compiled from articles that originally appeared in Horticulture Magazine. The book is divided into four sections: techniques, general design, plant for shade and step by step projects. Some of the plants suggested are Epimedium, sedge, Cyclamen and Japanese Spicebush (Lindera obtusiloba). Any one with cedar trees in their garden will want to read the essay by a local Northwest writer on coping with dry shade.
Other resources for shade gardening include the classic book, The Complete Shade Gardener by George Schenk (Timber Press, 1984) and the web page created by University of Missouri Extension.