harvesting and storing pear fruits

I have several pear trees. I’m never sure when to pick the fruit–should it be picked when ripe, or can it be picked sooner and allowed to ripen off the tree? Any advice on storage after harvesting would also be helpful.

If you have European pears, and not Asian pears, they are best picked before they are fully ripe. University of California, Davis Integrated Pest Management has basic information on harvesting pears. Excerpt:
“European pear varieties ripen best off the tree. Fruit that is left on the tree doesn’t develop full flavor. Pick the fruit when it is green and hard but of mature size for the variety. The stem should break off the spur easily when the fruit is twisted upward. If the spur breaks off the tree, the fruit is not ready to pick. Allow the fruit to ripen in a cool place in a fruit ripening bowl or paper bag. You may store fall-ready varieties for several weeks in cold storage (below 40 degrees F) and bring them out for ripening at room temperature.

Asian varieties should be allowed to ripen on the tree. The fruit will generally turn from green to yellow and the flesh should be sweet and juicy. Asian pears will hold on the tree for quite a while after they have ripened. It is better however, to keep them in cold storage until ready to eat. Asian pears can be stored for several months, depending on variety.”

Oregon State University Extension has an article by Robert Stebbins and others (Picking and Storing Apples and Pears) listing different varieties of pear (and apple) and the best times to harvest and their average life in storage at different temperatures.

Here is more on picking and storing pears from a no longer available article by Carol Savonen with information from Oregon State University Extension agent David Sugar.
Excerpt:
“Pears picked when slightly immature will ripen with better quality than pears that are over mature when picked. To tell if a pear is mature, a general rule of thumb is that, while still on the tree, most mature, ready to ripen pears will usually detach when ’tilted’ to a horizontal position from their usual vertical hanging position. Bosc pears always are difficult to separate from the spur.

“Unlike apples, which are ready to eat from the day they are picked, pears must go through a series of changes before they can deliver their full splendor,” explained Sugar. “Pears do not ripen on the tree to our liking. If allowed to tree-ripen, pears typically ripen from the inside out, so that the center is mushy by the time the outside flesh is ready.

“Commercial pears are harvested when they are ‘mature,’ he continued. “In pear language, that means they are picked when they have reached the point where they will ripen to good quality, sometimes with a little help, but definitely OFF the tree.

“‘So the frequently heard notion that pears are picked when they are still hard and green as a convenience for enduring the long truck ride to market misses the point,’ Sugar quipped.

“Once commercial pears are picked, growers cool them down to about 30 degrees F. They don’t freeze at this temperature, because the fruit sugar acts like an antifreeze.

“‘The colder the pears are, the longer they’ll stay in good condition,’ said Sugar. ‘In fact, they actually need to be cooled in order to ripen properly.’

“Bartlett pears need to be cooled only for a day or two, and winter pears such as Anjou, Bosc and Comice require 2 to 6 weeks for optimal effect, he said.

“‘Without this chilling process, a mature picked pear will just sit and sit and eventually decompose without ever ripening,’ explained Sugar.’Pear ripening must be closely watched (…) There is a relatively narrow window between “too hard” and “too soft” where the perfect pear texture lies.’ Sugar recommends ripening pears at 65 to 75 degrees F for the following times: Bartlett, 4 to 5 days, Bosc and Comice, 5 to 7 days; and Anjou, 7 to 10 days. The longer the time the pears have spent in cold storage, the shorter the time to ripen them. ‘As ripening begins, pears produce ethylene gas, a ripening hormone, inside the fruit. This speeds the ripening along. The ripening time gets shorter as the time since harvest passes.’

“Pear lovers can ‘kick start’ the pear ripening process by putting freshly bought or newly harvested pears in a paper bag with a ripe banana or an apple, both of which give off copious quantities of ethylene gas. The bag keeps the gas near the pears, which soak it up and quickly begin producing their own.

“How do you tell when a pear is ripened to perfection? ‘Hold the pear gently but firmly in the palm of your hand, as a baseball pitcher might hold the ball while studying signs from the catcher,’ recommended Sugar. ‘Apply the thumb of that same hand to the pear flesh just below the point where the stem joins the fruit. When the flesh beneath your thumb yields evenly to gentle pressure, it is time to eat your pear. If you have to push more than slightly, it is not ready yet.'”

best procedures for preparing planting holes

I am going to take my 6-foot tall Wilma Goldcrest out of the giant pot it is currently in, and plant it in the ground. I am seeking some sort of consensus on how to prepare the hole into which the tree is going. Someone said that I should not put compost in the hole because that will encourage the roots to just stay in the area of the hole. If that’s the case, then shouldn’t the “no compost” rule apply to all new plantings (which, of course, it does not)? Also, when should I fertilize the tree and what kind of fertilizer should I use? I always use organic fertilizers. What about putting some bone meal in the planting hole to feed new root growth?

I refer you to the following information from Washington State University Extension horticulturist, Professor Linda Chalker-Scott, who discusses planting procedures in her book, The Informed Gardener (University of Washington Press, 2008). She says that the planting hole need only be the depth of the root system, but should be twice the width. She advises against amending the planting hole in any way: Backfill the hole with native soil, not a soil amendment. The idea is not to ‘spoil’ the plant by putting rich compost just in the hole, which will deter the roots from spreading out into the surrounding area.

Her debunked gardening myths may also be found online. This one addresses soil amendments and planting. She also addresses the use of bone meal as a planting amendment.

‘Wilma Goldcrest’ is a cultivar of Cupressus macrocarpa, or Monterey cypress.
The University of California’s Garden Information publication on “Pines and Other Conifers”(including Monterey cypress)says:
“Pines and conifers require less fertilizer than most other trees and shrubs. Heavy fertilizing can promote rank, unsightly growth, destroying their natural, symmetrical, picturesque form.” If you do wish to use fertilizer, a dilution of something like seaweed or fish fertilizer would probably not be harmful.

Here is more about fertilizing conifers from University of Minnesota Extension Horticulture.

Excerpt:
“Why Fertilize?
The plant itself will often indicate when it needs fertilizer. If growth rate and needle color are normal for a particular variety, fertilization is not necessary. If new growth is sparse or slow, or the needles are not a healthy color, or are shorter than normal, you should probably fertilize. Keep in mind, however, it is not unusual or abnormal for newly transplanted evergreens to exhibit slow growth until they’re re-established.
Regular fertilization may be recommended if you are trying to grow evergreens in a less than ideal site, such as very sandy or heavy clay soil, or if the plant has suffered damage from insects or disease. You might also wish to fertilize to encourage more rapid growth in relatively young evergreens.”

Local garden writer Ann Lovejoy says the following in her book, The Handbook of Northwest Gardening (Sasquatch Books, 2007): “I rarely feed plants directly, preferring to feed the soil with what are called ‘feeding mulches,’ made of materials such as compost, seed meals, kelp, and fish meals.”

pruning and maintaining Hops

I understand that in the commercial cultivation of Humulus lupulus, the newly sprouted bines are thinned to just one or two, which are then trained onto a support structure. However, what happens in a garden setting if the hops, growing at the base of their support, are not thinned and trained (basically in a no-maintenance context)? Will the bines indefinitely overgrow everything in their vicinity or just until they find the most direct path upwards?

Hops grow vigorously, so if you are planning to grow the twining bines untended and unpruned, you can expect them to cover a large area quite quickly (which is sometimes desirable, if you are attempting to disguise an unattractive structure in the landscape). If you want to grow them on an arch or other support, make sure it is sturdy. They will die back in the winter, and according to the American Horticultural Society’s Pruning & Training by Christopher Brickell (DK Publishing, 1996). the dead growth can be cut to the ground in early spring.

Brooklyn Botanic Garden says the following:
“Humulus lupulus, common hop: Flowers on new growth. Commercial growers cut their hop vines to the ground in late summer to harvest the cones. Hop vines grown for ornament should be cut to the ground in late winter to early spring. Root-prune to control underground runners.”

Fine Gardening has an online plant guide which describes a particular cultivar of Humulus lupulus:

Height: 15-30 feet
Growth habit: runs
Growth pace: fast (other sources say very fast)

Chicago Botanic Garden also has an informative article about Humulus. Here is an excerpt:

“Native to Europe and western Asia, Humulus lupulus is an attractive perennial vine suitable for Chicago-area gardens. During July, soft green conelike flowers known as strobiles emerge. Contrasting nicely with the foliage, these young flowers provide additional ornamental appeal. When the strobiles mature during mid- to late September, they can be collected for home brewing or other herbal uses.
Humulus japonicus, native to Japan and eastern China, is a vigorous annual vine that can easily become overgrown if not properly maintained. The strobiles of this species are useless for beer production, as well as herbal uses. The Japanese hop is best reserved for areas of the garden that simply require screening.
The vine is dioecious, meaning that male and female flowers occur on different plants. Female plants grown apart from males will still produce hops, but not seed, and the hops will weigh less.
Native to the Northern temperate region, hop vines can twine up to 25 feet in a single season, quickly filling in fences, bowers or arbors. The only physical features of the vine that may warrant consideration are the bristly spines surrounding each stem. They are only 1/8- to 1/4-inch in size and not as bothersome as one would think, but gloves should be worn for pruning or handling the vines.
With their smaller bristles, cultivated varieties of hop are favored by gardeners over the straight species. Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus’, or golden hop, is a cultivar with yellow foliage and a restrained growth habit that is suitable for smaller Landscape Gardens. As the vine begins its climb, golden, maple-like leaves emerge in spring. The light-green flowers complement the yellow foliage and add a unique bit of interest to the garden during late summer and early fall. Bright yellow foliage persists into late fall, blending attractively with fall-blooming asters and ornamental grasses that lighten as they approach dormancy.”

yellowing and dropping of Ficus plant leaves

Some of the leaves on my ficus plant have turned yellow and dropped. What could be the cause of this, and what should I do to remedy it?

There are a number of things which might cause your Ficus leaves to turn yellow and drop. Here is what the book, The House Plant Expert by D. G. Hessayon (Expert Books, 2001) says about Ficus troubles:

A sudden loss of leaves is usually the result of overwatering. Other possibilities are low winter temperatures, low winter light, too much fertilizer, and cold draughts.

Yellowing leaf edges and some loss of lower leaves can be a sign of underfeeding. Feed during the growing season.

The author does not recommend frequent repotting, but suggests doing this in spring every 2 years until the plant is too big to move easily.

If your fig is a weeping fig (Ficus benjamina), the shedding of leaves is an annual (fall) occurrence, and not necessarily a sign of problems, according to The Complete Houseplant Survival Manual by Barbara Pleasant (Storey, 2005).

starting seeds indoors

I started some seedlings of tomato, pepper, snapdragon and lettuce in my sunroom under shop lights in peat pots. The temperature in the room is in the 60s at night and 70-80 in the day. I keep the soil evenly moist, but after 3 weeks, none of the seedlings that have germinated have true leaves. No secondary leaves of any kind. I cannot imagine why this would be under those conditions. Can you help me?

There are a number of variables that may be at work here. Are the seeds new? If not, were they stored properly? Also, seeds have varying lifespans. Some seeds require light to germinate and others do not. Some must be sown on or near the surface, and others must be sown more deeply. Seeds require varying degrees of heat. Oxygen is another requirement: is the seed-sowing mixture in your pots compacted? That might prevent germination. The steady moisture you are providing is good, and the temperature in the room is about right for most seeds.

University of New Hampshire Extension has useful general guidelines for starting seeds indoors.

The temperature of the water or the time of day in which the watering takes place may be influencing the growth of the plants. According to an Ed Hume’s Garden Questions Archives article entitled, Starting Vegetable Seeds Indoors, seedlings should be watered with water that is just a little warmer than room temperature. If the water being used is too cold or if watering occurs in the evening as the temperature of the room drops, this could be slowing the plant growth.

I am wondering if the day time temperatures are too high.
To quote from The Seed Starter’s Handbook by Nancy Bubel (Rodale Press, 1988): “Plants grown indoors in warm rooms put on weak, spindly, sappy growth that is difficult to manage. Start seeds warm and grow seedlings cool.”

Lastly, Starting from Seed by Karan Davis Cutler (Brooklyn Botanic Garden, 1998) says: “Since both heat and light fuel plant growth, the relationship between the two is critical. A common mistake among home gardeners is to keep plants at too high a temperature for the amount of light they receive. What often happens is that the gardener tries to compensate for slow growth with more fertilizer and higher temperatures. The result is limp, leggy seedlings that are hard put to cope with outdoor conditions. On cloudy days, the experienced gardener lowers the temperature to compensate for the lower light levels. While every plant has a temperature range it likes best, within that range, the cooler you keep the temperature, the better off the plant will be. Do not take things too far, though. A combination of low temperature, low light and overwatering is ideal for the development of damping-off fungus.”

Hoya plant care

My Hoya bella was recently moved outside. It flowered nicely, but now the leaves are a light yellow/green and the soil surface in the pot is covered with moss. What is wrong and what can I do?

Here is some information I found in the book, Subtropical plants: a practical gardening guide (by Jacqueline Sparrow and Gil Hanly, 2002, p. 107), quoted below:

Hoyas do very well in pots. They need bright light, but not sun…Hoyas strike fairly easily from cuttings, taken at the warmest time of the year.

About the yellowing of the leaves…I am pretty confident that this is due to the plant getting too much water (rain, whatever source, while it was outdoors) and the soil not drying out, which also explains what happened to the top of the soil–the moss or algae growth there. I would just gently scrape off the soil surface and put a thin layer of potting soil over it. If the plant starts getting what it needs again (as it did before it was put outdoors), it will hopefully return to its former healthy self.

During its growing season, Hoya bella prefers temps between 64 and 68 degrees; during its rest season, 59 degrees is the recommended minimum temperature (so here in Seattle, right next to a window may be too cold).

University of Florida provides additional information about Hoya bella.

growing Crucifers and other vegetables in the PNW

We have a couple of beautiful heads of cauliflower and a nice set of broccoli. The cauliflower looked nice until we cut through it to find lots of little bugs, turning some of the flower inside dark. We have a few aphids on our mustard greens, but the cauli bugs do not look like aphids.

Is it possible to grow ANY Cruciferae up here without infestations? I have NEVER been able to grow ANY type without some kind of bugs. At least the aphids wait until the bok choy flowers before they infest….and our yard has lots of ladybugs! Is there any hope?

We recommend that you start your seeds indoors to reduce the threat of insect infestation. Once the plants have begun to establish themselves, you can move them outdoors.

These books have great information about growing vegetables in the Pacific Northwest:

Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades: The Complete Guide to OrganicGgardening (by Steve Solomon, Sasquatch Books, 2007)
Sunset Western Garden Book of Edibles (Sunset, 2010)
Winter Gardening in the Maritime Northwest(by Binda Colebrook).

Colebrook explains that crucifers are “susceptible to attack by clubroot, cabbage loopers, imported cabbageworms, cabbage maggots, and gray aphids.” Sunset recommends that to prevent pests, “plant in a different site each year. Row covers will protect plants from aphids, cabbage loopers, imported cabbage-worms, and cabbage root maggots. Collars made from paper cups or metal cans (with ends removed) deter cutworms, which chew off seedlings at the base.”

gardening magazines specific for the PNW

Are there any gardening magazines with practical information that is specific to the Pacific Northwest?

There are numerous newsletters and small magazines from Northwest organizations like Seattle Tilth, Plant Amnesty, and Washington Park Arboretum. There are relatively few mainstream magazines that only discuss PNW gardening issues. Here are two which are published in British Columbia that you might try:

GardenWise (B.C.)
Gardens West (B.C.)

Feel free to come into the Miller Library and browse our periodicals collection, which includes the newsletters and magazines listed above.

The Miller Library website has many links to online resources, many of which are Pacific Northwest-specific. For example, you can find local organizations and plant societies, as well as websites specific to gardening in our region. Look at the Resources page on our website for booklists and recommended links.

differentiating critter mounds

I live in Seattle and have, for the first time this fall, noticed dirt mounds on my property. These mounds tend to be located near patios/driveways, and are not in the sod. They are loamy, with no apparent holes, and are about three to five inches high. I wouldn’t call them conical. There are no mole tunnels, and, as far as I can see, no bugs. The mounds are bigger than the little fine-grain mounds I have noticed in years past with small black ants crawling in them. Is there someone I can ask about what is causing these mounds, and if it is something to be concerned about? Could it be ants or mice?

From your description of the dirt mounds, it sounds as though the critter in your yard may be either a mole or a gopher. The easiest way to tell the difference is by the type of mound you have. Here is information on moles and pocket gophers from Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife’s Living with Wildlife website.

Below is additional information from “Of Bugs and Blights” (in Balls and Burlaps, February 1988, pp. 4 and 14):

A gopher mound fans out from a hole near one edge of the mound. This hole remains plugged while the gopher is on the runway system. The gopher mound is relatively flat compared to the mole mound. Gopher mounds vary from 1 to 3 feet in diameter…several mounds often will be found together. They are not regularly found in a line as are mole mounds. The mole mound is somewhat conical and not much over a foot in diameter. The hole is not evident when you look at the mound. Push the soil aside and you will find it under the center of the mound. Each mound is connected with the other in a line by the moles’ runway system.

According to the article quoted above, moles are more likely to be found in gardens in Western Washington than are gophers. We have the journal Balls and Burlaps in the Miller Library. The article discusses the problems and benefits of moles, as well as control methods.

I also consulted the Western Garden Problem Solver (Sunset Books, 1998) to see if I could identify your mound-maker. Ground squirrels leave their burrows open, so if your mounds show no opening, you probably don’t have squirrels. Mole mounds appear volcano-like, with signs of soil excavation.

Here is a link to information on ants and their nests which you might look at to see if the images resemble the mounds of soil you are seeing.

resources on container gardening

I am going to create container plantings for some customers, and I wonder if you know the best source (book) for combining plants in containers. Also, where might I take a class in container planting?

The Miller Library has a large number of books in its online catalog on container planting, but here are a few which may be helpful to you:

Container Gardens by Number by Bob Purnell (Reader\’s Digest, 2004)

Contain Yourself by Kerstin Ouellet (Ball Publishing, 2003)

The Complete Book of Container Gardening edited by Alan Toogood (Quarto Publishing, 1991)

The Book of Container Gardening by Malcolm Hillier (Simon & Schuster, 1991)

A Practical Step-by-Step Guide to Complete Container Gardening compiled by Ideas into Print (Whitecap Books, 1997)

This booklist will give you an idea of the selection of books on the topic.

UW Botanic Gardens occasionally offers classes on container planting,
as does Seattle Tilth.

Also, some local nurseries occasionally offer classes. One example is Swanson’s Nursery.