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Water chestnuts and edible tubers

What is the botanical name for water chestnut? Will it grow here? Are there other water plants that have edible tubers which will thrive in the Pacific Northwest? What about edible lotus root, from Chinese lotus?

 

Chinese or Sacred lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) is hardy in zones 4-10 and is considered invasive in some parts of parts of the midwestern and southeastern U.S. This article in The Guardian by Mark Griffiths, author of The Lotus Quest, suggests growing it in a container in a conservatory or on a sunny deck. However, you may not want to harvest tubers from a lotus grown in a relatively small container, as the plant needs to be large enough to have a substantial system of linear growth in order to sacrifice some of its tubers for human consumption. According to the Colorado Water Garden Society, “Lotus grow in a linear fashion, with a sequence of a tuber producing a leaf and perhaps a flower, then beginning another tuber to repeat the cycle . . . Tuber, leaf, flower, tuber, leaf, flower, etc. Each terminal point produces a single leaf and flower and then sends out the next, new growth. Beneath the soil, lotus growth takes on one of two forms: runners and tubers. The Summer “runner” growth is thin and long (to 24″+).”

American yellow lotus (Nelumbo lutea) also has edible tubers, but it can be an aggressive grower. If you are seeking out plants, be aware that there is sometimes identity confusion among Nelumbo, Nymphaea, Nymphoides, and Nuphar. In King County, there are two common invasive water lilies that are sometimes mistaken for lotuses, Nymphaea odorata and Nymphoides peltata. While some of these water lilies have tubers that have been considered edible in times of famine, they are not a desirable food source.

The common name ‘water chestnut’ may refer to the edible corms of the Chinese water chestnut familiar from Asian cuisine (Eleocharis dulcis), which is in the sedge family (Cyperaceae), or to European water chestnut (Trapa natans), which is in the loosestrife family (Lythraceae). Eleocharis is not winter-hardy in our area (it requires zones 9-11). Trapa natans is a noxious weed in Oregon and is on the Washington State Noxious Weed quarantine list, so it is not a good choice if you are planning to grow your own aquatic plants. Green Deane’s Eat the Weeds webpage describes the differences between these plants.

One commonly grown native plant with edible tubers is Sagittaria latifolia (common arrowhead, wapato, duck potato). It is an attractive ornamental in a water garden. According to Missouri Botanical Garden, the starchy golf-ball sized tubers that develop at the ends of the rhizomes (underground runners) “are edible, and may be boiled or baked and eaten as a potato-like food. Native Americans harvested and consumed these tubers, which in some areas were known as wapato. The tubers are also an important food source for waterfowl, hence the name duck potato.” According to Eat the Weeds, only Sagittaria latifolia is of edible interest to humans because the size of the tubers or corms is more significant than in other species. Generally, the larger the leaf size, the larger the edible tuber. In any case, avoid planting the two species of Sagittaria on the Washington State Noxious Weed list: S. platyphylla (quarantine list) and S. graminea (class B).

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aquatic plants and water gardening

I am looking for information about planting floating emergent plants (e.g., water shield, yellow pond lily) in natural ponds. If planting young plant material in the soil, what is the recommended water depth? Is it okay to submerge the entire shoot? If yes, what is a safe depth from top of shoot to water surface?

 

There are several different types of plants that are grown in ponds. A great resource on planting floating plants is The Water Gardener’s Bible: A step-by-step guide to building, planting, stocking, and maintaining a backyard water garden by Ben Helm and Kelly Billing (Rodale Inc., 2008). In the book they explain that floating plants will either float on the pond surface or be slightly submerged. The most popular floating plants are Frog’s bit (Hydrocharis morsus-ranae), Water hyacinth (Eichornia crassipes), Water chestnut (Trapa natans), and Water soldier (Pistia stratiotes). They also explain submerged plants that will inhabit a pond at all levels, from those whose roots sit on the bottom to those that emerge from the pond, getting only their feet wet. For planting a water lily, place on a stack of bricks in the position where the lily will be sited, so that the top of the planted basket is no more than 1 inch (3 cm) below the surface. As the leaves start to extend, remove the bricks until the basket is on the pond bottom.

Another great book is Plants for Water Gardens: The Complete Guide to Aquatic Plants by Helen Nash and Steve Stroupe (Sterling, 1998). The book contains a huge list of a variety of lily plants and specifications for planting and survival.

Texas A & M Extension has a website on water gardening with useful information on planting aquatic plants. You may want to check your local list of invasive species before planting.

on Marimo or moss ball

I saw some moss balls for sale in the gift shop of the new Nordic Museum. What type of moss is used? Is it native to Nordic countries? How do I care for one indoors?

 

The “moss” is actually a type of freshwater alga, Aegagropila linnaei, found in only a small number of northern hemisphere lakes. Other common names are lake ball or Cladophora ball. In Japan, they are called marimo (meaning a bouncy ball that is in water). The Ainu people of Hokkaido hold an annual Marimo Festival at Lake Akan to celebrate these charming lake goblins.

Iceland’s Lake Mývatn once had the world’s largest colony of lake balls but pollution has been altering the ecosystem there, and the mats of algae balls (colloquially called round sh*t or muck balls by the fishing community) began dying out. Their disappearance was first noted in 2013. There are some recent signs that the nutrient imbalance of the lake (caused by fertilizer runoff, and accumulation of bacteria) is correcting itself and that the ecosystem of the lake is bouncing back to better health.

To grow marimo inside, you will need a container that holds water, and a spot where the algae receive indirect sunlight. They prefer cool locations in nature, so they will do best if they do not get too hot (don’t put them near a heat source, and if it gets hot in your home, you can cool them off in water in the refrigerator). To keep the balls floating, squeeze out some of the water from time to time. To propagate the algae, use scissors to divide the marimo in half after squeezing out some of the water (you can repeat this process and cut into fourths or eighths). Use thread to wrap the cut algae back into a rounded shape, tie the thread close to the ball, and put back into the water. Some people combine them with other plants and tiny shrimp in indoor aquascapes.

If you have just acquired your marimo, inspect it for signs of  invasive zebra mussels, which sometimes hitch a ride on the moss balls in the import process. According to a 2024 report from the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, they have been found in marimo imported to a Renton aquarium supply wholesale business. If you need to dispose of a moss ball, keep it out of local waterways, and dispose of it safely, as follows: “If there is any sign of invasive mussels, do NOT dispose of them in drains, waterways, or gardens! Contaminated moss balls must destroyed (either by freezing, boiling, or bleaching), disposed of in a sealed plastic bag in the trash, and your aquarium must be drained and decontaminated.”  Sightings should be reported here.

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Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants

“The UF/IFAS Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants is a multidisciplinary research, teaching and extension unit directed to develop environmentally sound techniques for the management of aquatic and natural area weed species and to coordinate aquatic plant research activities within the State of Florida.”