My Sago palm hasn’t shown any
new growth or hint of life for several years, other than the same few fronds. The remaining fronds are still a uniform
green and appear healthy. I water periodically,
when the soil feels dry to the touch.
About 2 years ago, I emailed a Sago palm specialist website and
inquired; they advised transplanting it into a new pot with new soil and
to stop feeding it African Violet food (which I had been), saying that it
was raising the electricity in the soil (which Sagos evidently don’t
like). I did as they said, using a soil mix that was a Sago preference,
and only gave it plain water, but still nothing.
I’ve read that it enjoys direct sunlight; so I put it in the sun (during
the warm seasons) and the leaves began to show signs of burning and
prematurely drying out. I’ve also read that it enjoys shade or indirect
light, and that’s where it is now inside by a window; its leaves are
not yellowing (at least not as fast as when in the sun; they are
beginning to age as they ought), but, as said, it is fast, fast asleep.
Our condo is not heated so the temp inside is relatively cool most of the
time. I’m beginning to wonder if it is worth keeping; I really would
like to see it flourish, of course, but how long do I wait?
To wit, is there a way to wake up this sleeping beauty?
The book Cycads of the World by David Jones (Reed Press, 1993) says that
as a potted plant, Cycas revoluta will do well indoors with poor light
and neglect, but does prefer sun. (The information from a nursery owner
below says that the plant orientation is more important than the amount
of sun). Good drainage is key, and watering when dry, and regular
applications of light fertilizer should be helpful.
Through University of British Columbia Botanical Gardens online forum, I
came across information from the owner of a British Columbia Cycad specialist nursery,
Lori Pickering:
“Cycads are very hardy plants and are rarely bothered by pests or
diseases. They do, however, require very loose soil with perfect
drainage. Allow the soil to dry out somewhat between watering. If
possible, use rain water or filtered water, which is pure and free from
contaminants.
“Cycads do exceptionally well in pots. They actually like being
root-bound, so do not be too anxious to re-pot. Always keep pots
oriented in the same direction (e.g. facing north) to prevent the leaves
from spiralling and twisting out of plane. Just write “N” on the pot
with a felt marker.
“Cycad potting mix: 3 shovels friable loam, 2 shovels coarse sand, 4
shovels milled pine or fir bark, 1 shovel peat moss, one cup complete
organic fertilizer (OR 45 grams slow-release balanced pellet fertilizer
such as 18:6:18 with micro-elements, 40 grams dolomite lime, 3 grams iron
sulphate, 3 grams magnesium sulphate). Mulch with compost.
Cycads grown in pots do not have access to all the nutrients available
when growing in the ground. During the growing season, when your cycads
are summering out of doors, water every so often with a weak dilution of
sea kelp or de-odorized liquid fish fertilizer, according to package
directions. This will provide the trace elements they require for
optimum growth.
“Complete Organic Fertilizer recipe: 4 parts seed meal (i.e. flax or
canola), 1 part rock phosphate OR 1/2 part bone meal, 1 part lime, 1/2
part kelp meal.
“When planting cycads in the garden be sure they have excellent drainage.
The best way to ensure this is to plant them on a mound and incorporate
lots of sand into the soil. Some species are more tolerant of rainfall
and frost than others, so be sure to choose the right plant for your
situation.
“Asian Cycad Scale (Aulacaspis yasumatsui), a native of Thailand, is a
pest that has been spread to cycad populations of the southern U.S., the
Western Caribbean, and Hawaii. It has proved devastating to growers in
those areas. So far it has not been found in Canada. That is another
reason we grow all our cycads from seed and do not import any plants from
abroad. (This scale looks like a white powder on the leaves).”
Cycad care instructions from the Jurassic Plants website (no longer available online):
“Cycads are generally very easy to grow. Their main requirement is perfect
drainage, as they will develop root rot if water remains stagnant in the
soil. A loose, fast-draining potting mix such a cactus mix is preferred,
with a neutral to slightly alkaline soil, pH6 to 7. Terra cotta pots will
help to keep the soil on the dry side and provide aeration. Fertilize
with a low phosphorus (3-1-3 ratio) timed-release fertilizer including
trace nutrients. All cycads benefit from a mulch, which will encourage
the growth of their coralloid roots. Rain forest cycads especially are
sensitive to salts in the water, so use rainwater or filtered water, if
possible. Those from drier habitats are more tolerant of mineralization
in the water. Some cycads prefer full sun, others shade, but always keep
them oriented in the same direction (e.g., north) to keep the leaves from
spiralling out of plane.”