I saved seedpods from my Baptisia this fall, and wonder about the best way to grow this plant from seed—when to sow, etc.
According to The Gardener’s A-Z Guide to Growing Flowers from Seed to Bloom (Eileen Powell, Storey Publishing, 2004), you can sow directly outdoors in late autumn or early spring at a depth of ¼ inch.
You can also start seed indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost. Germination time varies from 5 to 36 days. Powell recommends soaking the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, and then chipping them with a knife. Keep at 70-75 degrees F once sown. Transplant after the last spring frost, or in early autumn. Baptisia likes full sun to light shade, and well-drained soil. Plants grown from seed may take a couple of years to settle into the garden.
Miriam Goldberger, author of Taming Wildflowers (2014) and proprietor of Wildflower Farm, has additional advice, including an alternate outdoor method of putting sown seeds in potting medium out in late fall to winter to allow natural cold stratification (this applies only if your winters are cold enough!). “The seed will germinate in the pots in spring as the weather warms up. Be sure to water the pots regularly in spring and once the plants are 5 cm (2 inches) tall, transplant them into your garden.”
Will watermelon and cantaloupe cross-pollinate and produce bad-tasting melons? Is it possible for a vine that had cucumbers growing on it earlier in the season to produce a cantaloupe? I could swear that we now have what looks like a melon on a vine that had cukes before…
The short answer is, no. It’s fine to grow watermelons and cantaloupe side by side. Cross-pollination between melon varieties may occur, but not between watermelons (Citrullus lanatus v. lanatus) and cantaloupes (Cucumis melo ssp. melo v. cantalupo), as they are two different species. In addition, cross-pollination affects not the melon produced that year, but the melons one might grow from any seeds produced inside that melon. According to Sue Stickland’s Back Garden Seed Saving (Chelsea Green, 2001), “commercial seed growers are recommended to isolate melon varieties by 500-1000 meters” or “bag and hand-pollinate the flowers” to keep unwanted hybridization from happening.
The same principle holds true for cantaloupe (Cucumis melo and cucumber (Cucumis sativus): they are indeed in the same plant family (Cucurbitaceae), but they are different species. If your vines were planted close together, you might not have realized there was a melon developing in among the cucumbers–and if you planted the vines from seed, it’s very possible the seed packet contained a surprise cantaloupe!
You may find this information from Iowa State University Extension about cross-pollination among vine crops interesting:
“Since they have a similar flowering habit, bloom about the same time, and are members of the same plant family, it is logical that gardeners might assume that squash, melons, and cucumbers will cross-pollinate. Fortunately, however, this is not true. The female flowers of each crop can be fertilized only by pollen from male flowers of the same species. Cross pollination, however, can occur between varieties within a species.”
An article on fruit set in the
Cucurbit family from University of California, Davis (which also has information on how to hand-pollinate plants when necessary) says much the same thing:
“A common misconception is that squash, melons, and cucumbers will cross-pollinate. This is not true; the female flowers of each can be fertilized only by pollen from that same species. Varieties within each species, however, will cross-pollinate.”
As an avid plant person who is also a metalsmith and jeweler, I was surprised to learn that we get the weight measure for stones (carat) from the ancients who used carob beans as a standard weight. Because “carob beans are unusually consistent in size. This means that carob beans usually all weigh the same, no matter when or where harvested!”
My mind is reeling! How can that be? Nature doesn’t do that! Every plant is unique, I thought, weather, soil, location should change the harvest, I thought. Am I mistaken?
On that last point, you are not mistaken: there is variability in the weight of carob seeds, but it is relatively small. Ceratonia siliqua is in the bean/legume family [Fabaceae]. It is not the elongated carob pod that was used as a standard, it’s the seeds contained in that pod ( a typical pod contains about 10 seeds). Seeds from female trees are relatively consistent (0.197 grams or 1/150th of an ounce). This weight was standardized to 200 milligrams in 1907, and continues to be in use.
The scientific paper Seed size variability: from carob to carats (Turnbull et al., 2006, Biology Letters: The Royal Society, published online 2006 May 2) attempts to explain the “myth of constant seed weight.” As far back as ancient Greece, there was a weight called a kerat (which is echoed in carob’s Latin genus name, Ceratonia). Keration was the Greek word for carob (possibly a Semitic loan word from Aramaic/Syriac karta meaning pod or husk), and its literal meaning was ‘little horn,’ which describes the shape of the pods (not the seeds). Siliqua, carob’s species name, was the Latin word for carob, and used to refer to the smallest subdivision of the Roman pound. Carob seeds were no more consistent in mass than the other 63 species the article’s authors measured. They theorize that seeds used for weighing were a product of human selection.
Carob thrives in its native Mediterranean and Middle Eastern regions, and would simply have been readily available as a counterweight for precious substances, like gemstones and spices. Humans can perceive mere 5% differences in carob seed mass. In the ancient world, measurement of weight based on carob seeds would have been fairly dependable, based on the accuracy of the human eye—unless an unscrupulous vendor also kept sets of seeds that were heavier or lighter than the standard, either to shortchange or overcharge!
I bought some shiny dark seeds at an Ethiopian grocery store. The proprietor said they were good for sore throat. The name of the seed sounded something like ‘nuk.’ Can you tell me what plant they are from? And is it safe to use them?
By guessing at different possible spellings, I came across a plant whose Amharic name sounds like ‘nuk’ or ‘noug.’ I also showed your sample seeds to an Eritrean colleague, and confirmed that they were familiar to him for their high oil content, but also for steeping in hot water to make a kind of tonic. I can’t recommend consuming them medicinally; you would need to speak to a medical professional. But I can tell you that the plant source is Guizotia abyssinica. It is in the daisy family (Asteraceae), and has a yellow flower that might remind you a little of a yellow daisy. There is research being done at University of British Columbia’s Botany department on this plant and its potential as a crop to increase food security and alleviate poverty in Sub-Saharan Africa.
Purdue University researchers are looking into cultivating this plant (also called Nigerseed) in the Midwestern United States.
Wikipedia has additional information about this plant.
Chia seeds: what are they, and what are they good for, besides sprouting on clay animals (Chia Pets!)? Lately, I’m seeing them promoted everywhere for their health benefits. Is there any validity to this?
The common name Chia refers to several species of Salvia, and to Hyptis suaveolens. The species that is imported into the United States is usually Salvia hispanica. Purdue University’s New Crops database has information about the uses of chia seeds:
“The seeds of chias have been eaten for centuries by native North Americans, either raw or parched. They are used in sauces and as thickening agents. When soaked in water the seed envelops itself in a copious mucilaginous polysaccharide, excellent for digestion, and together with the grain itself forms a nutritious food. Mixed with orange juice the gel-like seeds make a nutritious breakfast and can help to control excess weight. Users report that a glass full of orange juice with a teaspoon of presoaked seeds leaves one feeling full and without hunger until noon. The plant explorer Edward Palmer wrote (1871): ‘In preparing chia for use the seeds are roasted and ground, and the addition of water makes a mucilaginous mass several times the original bulk, sugar to taste is added, and the result is the much prized semi-fluid pinole of Indians and others, and to me one of the best and most nutritive foods while traveling over the deserts.'”
The New York Times published an article (11/24/2012) on the current trend for consuming chia seeds as a nutritional supplement (purportedly high in antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids). More studies are needed to substantiate the health claims, as this information from Columbia University’s “Go Ask Alice” website points out:
“People eat chia seeds for diabetes, high blood pressure, and to reduce the risk of heart disease and stroke. However, there is currently no good evidence to support chia consumption for these uses. People have also tried using chia seeds as a weight loss aid, as the high fiber content is thought to suppress appetite and ultimately help with weight loss. There’s not much support for this claim. One study found that eating chia seeds had no effects on body weight, body fat, or changes in appetite over a 12-week period. However, studies have shown that a particular variety of chia seeds, marketed under Salba, can reduce certain risk factors for heart disease such as blood pressure, clotting factors, and inflammation.”
Are there any seed libraries or seed exchanges in the Seattle area?
Yes, there is the King County Seed Library which currently has several locations:
At the Northeast Seattle Tool Library 2415 NE 80th St Seattle, WA 98115
At the Phinney Neighborhood Center Tool Library 6532 Phinney Ave NE Seattle, WA 98103
Seattle Farm Co-Op 1817 S Jackson Place Seattle, WA 98144
Pickering Garden 1730 10th Avenue NW Issaquah, WA 98027
Hillman City Collaboratory 5623 Rainier Avenue S. Seattle, WA 98118
You might also look out for local celebrations of National Seed Swap Day, which happens on the last Saturday of every January.
The best-known national organization devoted to seed-saving and distribution is the Seed Savers Exchange in Decorah, Iowa. Another example is the Hudson Valley Seed Library in New York State. Both of these organizations sell heirloom and unusual seed varieties.
You might see if your local public library (the kind which lends books and other materials) is interested in following the example of Tucson, Arizona’s Pima County Public Library, which maintains a seed exchange.
Some local horticultural organizations have organized seed exchanges among their members, such as the Hardy Plant Society of Washington and the Northwest Perennial Alliance, but these are primarily seeds of ornamental plants. You can also start your own informal exchange by learning about seed-saving and passing along that knowledge (and its fruits–that is, seeds!) to your friends. The Miller Library has many excellent books on saving seeds. You can search the online catalog, using keywords such as ‘seed saving.’You can also check the calendar of plant sales and gardening events that the library maintains, as sometimes there are seed-sharing opportunities posted.
I harvested in mid July some columbine seeds (unknown Aquilegia cultivar). Can I plant outside now? Do I need to start indoors? Or wait?
A great book resource used to find this answer was Seeds: The Ultimate Guide to Growing Successfully from Seed by Jekka McVicar. In the book, McVicar recommends “sowing fresh seeds in early summer into pots or modules using standard soil-less seed compost (substrate), either a peat free proprietary blend or composted fine propagating bark. Cover with perlite or vermiculite. Place under protection at 50F (10C)” If the seeds are old (viable for 5 years), “sow seed in autumn into pots. Use standard loam-based seed compost (substrate) mixed with coarse horticultural sand. Mix to a ratio of 1 part compost + 1 part sand. Cover lightly with compost and place outside, exposed to all the weathers. Germination takes place the following spring but can be erratic. May flower in its first or second season.” (p.145)
I receive a food stamp benefit, and I’ve been able to use it to buy food plants to grow in my garden, but I would like to be able to grow food from seed. Do you know if the benefit covers seeds for food crops?
Thanks for pointing out that food stamp benefits can be used for food plants! I consulted with legal experts at Seattle’s Solid Ground and found out that the benefit does include seeds. Here is the USDA Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program web-site where this is stated:
Excerpt:
“Households CAN use SNAP benefits to buy: Seeds and plants which produce food for the household to eat.”
According to the historical information on the website of SNAP Gardens, this benefit has existed since 1973, when the Food Stamp Act was amended to include “seeds and plants for use in gardens to produce food for the personal consumption of the eligible household.” You would still need to obtain the seeds from an existing vendor who accepts the food stamp benefit.
When is a seed a seed? My wife and I are in agreement on not putting weeds with set seeds in the compost (and the “Easy Compost” book says just that). However, we are less sure about weed flowers (probably OK), and what about seed cases that haven’t formed seeds yet? I’m thinking in particular of foxgloves right now, as the flowers are coming to an end and leaving behind the undeveloped seed cases. I’m unsure whether to compost them or not. Just an aside: our compost pile doesn’t get superheated.
That is a very good question. I found an article in Fine Gardening magazine which discusses harvesting wildflower seeds. It is relevant because it suggests that some unripe seeds may continue to ripen even after being harvested from the plant before maturity. Whether unripe seed will eventually germinate may have to do with the permeability of the seed coat: the more permeable, the more likely the chance it will germinate.
The book Seeds by Peter Loewer (Macmillan, 1995) says that plants with tough seed coats (like legumes and morning glories) “are virtually impermeable to water and must be nicked by the gardener or soaked in warm water for twenty-four hours before they germinate. If these jackets are not broken, scratched, or eroded, water never enters and germination never begins.”
I have found several references to the immature seeds of invasive plants (Ailanthus, teasel, yellow flag iris, to name a few) being capable of germination. The Complete Compost Gardening Guide by Barbara Pleasant and Deborah Martin (Storey, 2008) “weeds that show up in your garden are fair game for compost, even if they are holding seeds. […] Weeds that have not yet begun to bloom and lack viable root buds that help them grow into new weeds can be added to any compost project, but it is important to keep weed seeds to a minimum every chance you get. […] In every climate there are plant criminals known as noxious weeds […] Unless you are confident and committed to processing the compost made from noxious weeds with a high-heat procedure, collect them in a black plastic garbage bag and subject them to various forms of torture before dumping them in an inhospitable place. Cook bags of them in the sun, add water and let them soak into slime, and keep track of what works and what doesn’t. If your superweeds survive your torture methods and you don’t have a spot in your landscape suited to use as a little landfill, discard them as garbage.”
If you want to be on the safe side, avoid putting anything seedy (even green and immature) in the compost, especially if the pile is not going to get especially hot and speed the decomposition process.
I read an article recently that said some of my favorite seed companies are now owned by Monsanto. I don’t want to use genetically modified seeds in my home garden, so I’d like to know where I can find more information on the sources seed companies use for the seed I am buying.
You may be referring to the January 2009 issue of the PCC Newsletter regarding Monsanto purchasing many of your favorite garden and farm seed catalogs. Territorial Seeds, Johnny’s Seeds, Park Seed, Burpee, Cook’s Garden, Spring Hill Nurseries, Flower of the Month Club, and Audubon Workshop are not owned by Monsanto or Seminis. PCC subsequently posted a retraction.
The folks at Organic Seed Alliance are a great resource on this issue. Here is what they suggest:
“For gardeners interested in buying non-GMO seeds, the best bet is to purchase seeds from seed companies who sell only organic seeds and who have signed the Safe Seed Pledge.”
For further reading on the subject, see this February 2005 article (now archived) by Matthew Dillon from the Rodale Institute on Monsanto’s purchase of Seminis. Environmental News Network also has information about a September 2008 discussion forum with writer Michael Pollan and Monsanto CEO Hugh Grant.