transplanting lilac

I have a dark purple lilac tree growing on the north side of my home. It does not get a lot of sunlight. I am wondering about replanting it somewhere else in the yard. When can I do this?

Lilacs should be able to tolerate moderate shade, according to The Plant Care Manual by Stefan Buczacki (Crown Publishers, 1993). You can move it to a sunnier location to see if it will thrive there.

The best time to transplant a lilac is before it leafs out (late winter, when it is dormant) but apparently they are somewhat tolerant of being moved at less-than-ideal times. The University of British Columbia Botanical Garden discussion forum also recommends transplanting lilacs in dormancy. Blooming should not be affected, unless your bush is already leafed out and in bud.

on transplanting rhododendrons

Some friends of mine just bought an old house with a huge rhododendron up against the house. It is at least 8 feet high and probably 10 feet wide. I did not dig around and there may be multiple shrubs growing next to each other. What are the chances of moving the rhody successfully? Should it be cut way back before hand? Any particular time of year for moving it?

Fortunately, rhododendrons are very likely to succeed in being transplanted. Most experts recommend fall as the best time to transplant. Spring or late winter is second best.

The real challenge is getting a large enough rootball. A five-to-six foot plant requires a rootball of about 3 feet in diameter.

Step 1- dig a 12-18 inches deep trench around the rootball.
Step 2 – under cut the rootball to sever the roots from the underlying soil. The most important roots are the small feeder roots, not the big old ones. You can use a steel cable with a tractor or you can use a shovel and digging iron and a lot of hard work. The rootball will probably be about 8 – 12 inches deep and 3 feet in diameter.
Step 3 – tilt it on its side and slide a piece of 1/2-inch plywood under the rootball and set the plant upright. Use the plywood to move the plant to its new location. (A tarp works, too, if you can get it underneath the rootball.)
Step 4 – dig a new hole 4 feet in diameter and deep enough so that the rootball is 1 inch higher than the depth of the hole. (Slightly above grade)
Step 5 – water well and mulch around the perimeter of the plant BUT keep the mulch at least 2 inch away from the trunk of the plant.

Newly transplanted plants need some tender care and especially need to be watered regularly, but not over watered.

There were no recommendations to cut the foliage back. But it is always ok to prune out dead, dying, diseased or deranged stems. This also means you can prune out twiggy growth.

This information comes from Success with Rhododendrons and Azaleas by H. Edward Reiley (1992).

Moving mature trees

I need advice on moving a Japanese Maple tree. The tree
is 10 feet tall, and has begun to grow unevenly
because it was planted too close to a very large wisteria in
front of our house. Ideally, we would only move it 8-10 feet,
as there is a wide open space with lots of sunlight just east of its
current home. I don’t know how deep the Japanese Maple typically roots,
or how difficult this may be, but any information you
could provide would be very much appreciated.

According to the book Japanese Maples by J. D. Vertrees (Timber Press,
1987), Japanese maples do not have deep, tap-root structures, but are
mainly a fibrous root network which stays in the upper level of the soil.
As they mature, however, there will be roots going deeper, so if you are
planning to move the tree, you will want to be sure to get as much of the
root ball as possible. If the tree is not too old, it should be easier.
Make sure to water the tree well and prepare the new site before you
begin digging carefully.

The Royal Horticultural Society has general information on moving
mature trees and shrubs which may be of use to you, keeping in mind that
fall is a good time for you to move a tree here in the Northwest.

You can also contact a certified arborist for advice. For a referral,
contact Plant Amnesty.
You can also go directly to the local chapter of ISA, the International
Society of Arboriculture.

on transplanting root-bound Bougainvillea

I have a Bougainvillea that has been in a container for a year. I would like to move it to a sunnier location, but it has taken root to the ground. What should I do to move it? I don’t want to just pull on it for fear of tearing and harming the roots.

The best time to move or transplant your Bougainvillea is in early spring, before active growth begins.

Since your Bougainvillea is only a year old, it shouldn’t be too difficult to transplant, but you should dig carefully around the base of the pot to try to loosen the roots which have made their way into the ground. You may have to break apart the container to get the plant out. Try to get as much of the root system as you can. Bougainvillea has very fine roots. According to Sunset Western Garden Book (2007 ed.), “the roots do not knit soil together in a firm root ball, and they are highly sensitive to disturbance.” Are you repotting the plant, or planting it directly into the garden? In pots, Bougainvillea likes its roots to be somewhat crowded and potbound. The August, 2006 issue of the Master Gardener’s Newsletter from Travis County, Texas, says, “Don’t place a Bougainvillea container directly on the soil or else risk the plant rooting out the bottom and creating quite a surprise when the plant is moved.” So you are not alone in having this experience!

This document from University of Hawaii Cooperative Extension provides a lot of information about how to grow Bougainvillea.

transplanting Japanese Maples

I would like to transplant a Japanese maple, probably 5 years old and about 8 feet tall. Can I do it in late October/November safely in St. Louis? And what is the best method?

Japanese maples are best transplanted when they are dormant—usually late fall through early spring if the ground does not freeze in your area.

The following information comes from Japanese Maples (by J.D. Vertrees, 2001, pp.61-62). This book also contains good information about mulching and general care:

When moving a plant to a different location within a garden, the plant must be dug with an earthen ball intact around the roots. If the plant is of any size or age, this root protection is important. It is also desirable that the planting hole be prepared in advance, ready to receive the plant with its root ball, as soon as it is dug up. Having the new planting hole ready minimizes the risk of the fine feeding roots drying out. For this reason it is imperative that, whatever method, material, or timing is used when planting a Japanese maple, the roots are not exposed to air or direct sunlight for any length of time. Such care will help prevent them from becoming desiccated, which would cause too much transplant shock and possible loss of the tree.

The planting hole should be dug slightly larger than the root mass of the plant. To enable the root system to establish itself quickly, it helps to mix with the soil organic compost, such as composted conifer bark mulch, rhododendron or azalea planting mix, or rose compost. In tight , heavy clay soils the compost helps condition the soil, while in light, sandy soils the compost assists in water retention. Sawdust or wood chippings should never be used as, during their breakdown, they use up the available soil nitrogen and render it unavailable to the newly planted tree.

The planting hole should be deep enough so that the root collar of the plant, the ground line at which the young plant was grown, is level with the ground surface. The exception to this rule applies to tight, heavy soils, like clay, where success will be greater if the hole is rather shallow so that the root system is partly above the ground level. When filling in the hole, the soil should then be mounded up to the root collar to protect the roots from drying out. If deep holes are dug in heavy soil, it is like planting the tree in a large iron kettle with no drainage. Surely the plant will soon drown and die.

Whatever the soil conditions, the tree should never be planted deeper than the root collar. After the first season or two, the plant will find the level of root activity at which it can exist in particular soil conditions. I have observed maples growing in some surprisingly dry, shallow, and exposed conditions.

transplanting Ivies

Do you have any information on how to transplant Hedera colchica?

Before you transplant your ivy, be sure to verify that it is not on your county’s noxious weed list. Hedera colchica, or Persian ivy, is not listed on King County’s site, but it may still share some of the self-perpetuating and plant- and structure-damaging properties of English ivy (Hedera helix).

I searched our books on ivies as well as our periodicals databases, and did not come across anything specifically about moving Hedera colchica. I would assume that what applies to the genus, as far as the procedure for transplanting, should apply to this species also. Below is general information I located.

The American Ivy Society has general information on moving outdoor ivies. Search under “Resources: Q & A.”(You may wish to contact them directly for information specific to Hedera colchica). Here is an excerpt:

“You can dig up ivy fall or early spring and move it. If you are in a really cold climate you will best results transplanting in the spring.

“Dig around the base of the ivy stem leaving as much root & soil as possible. Dig the new hole wider and deeper than the root ball. It is good to plant ivy deeper– as much as 3-4” deeper if possible. That will secure the ivy in the ground and help to prevent drying while it acclimates to the new location. Water regularly making sure the ivy does not dry out but do not keep the soil too wet.

“I would suggest mulching with almost any organic mulch like pine needles, leaves or chipped bark. This also helps to keep the soil moist and the temperature even.

“You will need to give the ivy some TLC for the first few months but once it gets started it should be fine. It is always a good idea to keep newly planted ivy carefully water for the first year or so. After that you can practically ignore it (depending on your climate) and it will survive with the natural rains or normal garden irrigation.”

From The Helpful Gardener, an online garden forum:

First thoroughly water the plants and cut off a lot of the top growth to prevent dehydration (down to where there is growth evident – don’t cut into old wood where there isn’t anything growing from it).
Then dig the new holes for them – making them large and deep – and dig in some compost. Carefully dig up the ivies, taking all the roots and some soil around them, and put each in a bucket or piece of sacking.
Next, making sure the new hole is big enough, replant the ivies in their new homes, shaking the plant gently so that the soil settles around the roots.
Heel in gently, water generously, put some shredded bark or shingle on top to keep in the moisture, and keep well watered during dry spells.

transplanting and caring for Iochroma australe

I grew from a seed from Kew Acnistus australis, now known as Iochroma australis. It is a small tree with white trumpet blooms. It is 8 years old and lives in the shade between two houses. I need to move it. Can you suggest methods for transplanting successfully? Also, any other information you might have about this plant would be great.

The current name of your plant is Iochroma australe, and it is in the Solanaceae family.

Is this tree hardy for you? Sunset Western Garden Book (2007) indicates that other species of Iochroma are not frost-hardy. Iochroma takes full sun to part shade, and requires regular watering. It is not a common plant in our area, and information about it is scarce. There is a reference to it in an article called “Get the Wows!” by Brian Minter in the October 2002 issue of Gardens West, where it is mentioned as an unusual container plant which is brought to a location under an overhang for the winter (in British Columbia). Iochroma is also featured in an article by Julian M.H. Shaw (pages 154-192) in the September 1998 issue of The New Plantsman (published by the Royal Horticultural Society). The name Iochroma comes from Greek for violet-colored. Since your plant has white blooms, it is probably a cultivar. There is one called ‘Andean Snow’ which has white blooms and is mentioned in the New Plantsman article. It grows “in a sheltered bay about four metres from the nearest wall,” and is hardy in Nottingham, England.

Fall is often a good time for moving trees and shrubs. Be sure to get as much of the root system as you can when moving your Iochroma. I am assuming you are moving it to a sunnier spot, possibly one with some shelter from fall rains and winter cold. The Royal Horticultural Society has helpful information about how to move mature trees and shrubs.

best procedures for preparing planting holes

I am going to take my 6-foot tall Wilma Goldcrest out of the giant pot it is currently in, and plant it in the ground. I am seeking some sort of consensus on how to prepare the hole into which the tree is going. Someone said that I should not put compost in the hole because that will encourage the roots to just stay in the area of the hole. If that’s the case, then shouldn’t the “no compost” rule apply to all new plantings (which, of course, it does not)? Also, when should I fertilize the tree and what kind of fertilizer should I use? I always use organic fertilizers. What about putting some bone meal in the planting hole to feed new root growth?

I refer you to the following information from Washington State University Extension horticulturist, Professor Linda Chalker-Scott, who discusses planting procedures in her book, The Informed Gardener (University of Washington Press, 2008). She says that the planting hole need only be the depth of the root system, but should be twice the width. She advises against amending the planting hole in any way: Backfill the hole with native soil, not a soil amendment. The idea is not to ‘spoil’ the plant by putting rich compost just in the hole, which will deter the roots from spreading out into the surrounding area.

Her debunked gardening myths may also be found online. This one addresses soil amendments and planting. She also addresses the use of bone meal as a planting amendment.

‘Wilma Goldcrest’ is a cultivar of Cupressus macrocarpa, or Monterey cypress.
The University of California’s Garden Information publication on “Pines and Other Conifers”(including Monterey cypress)says:
“Pines and conifers require less fertilizer than most other trees and shrubs. Heavy fertilizing can promote rank, unsightly growth, destroying their natural, symmetrical, picturesque form.” If you do wish to use fertilizer, a dilution of something like seaweed or fish fertilizer would probably not be harmful.

Here is more about fertilizing conifers from University of Minnesota Extension Horticulture.

Excerpt:
“Why Fertilize?
The plant itself will often indicate when it needs fertilizer. If growth rate and needle color are normal for a particular variety, fertilization is not necessary. If new growth is sparse or slow, or the needles are not a healthy color, or are shorter than normal, you should probably fertilize. Keep in mind, however, it is not unusual or abnormal for newly transplanted evergreens to exhibit slow growth until they’re re-established.
Regular fertilization may be recommended if you are trying to grow evergreens in a less than ideal site, such as very sandy or heavy clay soil, or if the plant has suffered damage from insects or disease. You might also wish to fertilize to encourage more rapid growth in relatively young evergreens.”

Local garden writer Ann Lovejoy says the following in her book, The Handbook of Northwest Gardening (Sasquatch Books, 2007): “I rarely feed plants directly, preferring to feed the soil with what are called ‘feeding mulches,’ made of materials such as compost, seed meals, kelp, and fish meals.”

on transplanting bamboo

I transplanted some bamboo and now some of it is dying. Can you give me some information on how to transplant bamboo correctly?

The following is an excerpt from the (now archived) American Bamboo Society webpage.

Q. How do I transplant part of a large clump of bamboo?

Transplanting is hard work and involves digging a large chunk of root ball out of the ground. Never transplant bamboo when it is shooting. Dig bamboo either very early in the spring before there’s any chance of shooting or wait for the growth period to be over late in the autumn. You should look for a clump of culms that has come up in the last year or so and which includes at least three or four healthy-looking culms. A good size for the clump would be at least two feet in diameter. Bamboo roots (rhizomes) are tough but must not be allowed to dry out even for a few minutes. You may have to use a very sharp shovel, ax or saw to separate the roots from the rest of the grove. If you will be transferring the division by truck, then water the leaves and roots well, wrap the whole thing in plastic and get it into the ground as quickly as possible.

pruning and transplanting Ceanothus

I have a mature Ceanothus ‘Victoria’ that I’d like to prune and transplant. When is a good time to do this? It seems as if it has a deep root system.

Ceanothus ‘Victoria’ can be a bit difficult to transplant because the root systems are extensive, as you noted, but it is worth a try. I have transplanted this cultivar both successfully and unsuccessfully.

I would recommend either that you do not prune them or that you wait until August. You do not want them to grow much before you transplant them, and pruning during the growing season will encourage growth. If you prune them in August, they will grow very little.

Extensive pruning before transplanting sets up competition between the root system and the upper plant (responding to the pruning), as far as the plant’s resources are concerned. After transplanting, you want energy directed toward the roots so that they might take hold and also so that growth above ground slows. If you choose to prune the shrubs, I recommend that you prune as little as possible. Prune from the inside, thinning and taking out dead branches, and removing a few lower limbs. You can also cut back some of the longer limbs, as this shrub can handle ‘heading back,’ as this type of pruning is called. Please note that this shrub is genetically programmed to get quite large, and pruning will not prevent this. Be sure the new spot can handle a shrub that wants to grow 8 to 10 feet up and out (possibly more!).

With this in mind, you can consider transplanting the shrub in the fall. I recommend October or later so that you can avoid a hot spell (which may promote upper growth and/or place the plant under stress). When you dig up the root system, retain as many of the roots and their native soil (surrounding them and holding them together) as you can. You will have to cut the deep taproot(s); that is unavoidable. The tiny, thread-like roots are more important to retain.

When you dig the hole, make it big enough to accommodate the soil around the roots as well as a bit of filler. You don’t need to add new soil; simply backfill with the soil you dug out. You may have to water a bit, even in the fall, until our rainy season begins. You don’t need to saturate the roots, but don’t allow them to dry out.