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To Eat: A Country Life

Joe Eck and Wayne Winterrowd shared over 40 years together, most of it at a home they called North Hill in Readsboro, Vermont.  This is a long time for any couple, but especially noteworthy for gay men.  Their garden inspired many books, written by each singly or by both.  The Miller Library has eight of their titles on subjects that include annuals, tender perennials, roses, and garden design.   Winterrowd’s “Annuals for Connoisseurs” (1992) is one of my personal favorites.

Eck and Winterrowd met in a gay nightclub in Boston during the late 1960s.  Often such encounters are brief, but they spent much of the night talking together and walking the Boston Common.  They never parted.  Eager for a rural life, they found their Vermont home a few years later, initially making their living as school teachers before transitioning to full-time garden designers and authors.

Most of their books celebrate the many aspects of their life together at North Hill, including raising a son.  Their final book, “To Eat: A Country Life” was started jointly in 2010, but after Winterrowd died suddenly that fall, Eck was left to finish it alone.  The book was published in 2013.  The men shared many passions, but eating had “always been central.”

Bobbi Angell, a noted botanical artist who lived near North Hill, provided the illustrations for “To Eat.”  She also has an essay in the book about a lunch with the couple shortly before Winterrowd’s death.  In a conversation musing about their place in rural Vermont, she concludes: “Wayne and Joe’s life–their plants, their friends, their stories–came from around the world, city and country alike.”

Excerpted from Brian Thompson’s article in the Fall 2022 issue of the Arboretum Bulletin

The Beginner’s Guide to Growing Great Vegetables

Not just for beginners, Lorene Edwards Forkner’s latest vegetable gardening book is chock full of good advice for all gardeners. If you are a beginner, I suggest reading the opening chapter, “Gardening 101.” For everyone, the chapter entitled “Garden Planning” will help you decide what type and especially how much food growing is realistic for you, including options if you do not have garden space. Like ornamental plants? These are encouraged for edible fruits or flowers, or to attract beneficial insects to protect or pollinate your food crops.The book’s core is a month-by-month calendar showing both the planning and the doing for the time of year, including seasonal essays. For example, September is the time to plan for your fall and winter garden, planting cover crops and saving seeds. October is about cleaning and feeding the garden for the future, especially after the first frost, and creating or enhancing your process for making home compost.Forkner encourages experimentation and keeping a journal of the results. She happily shares her personal experiences, good and bad. “Over the years I’ve experimented with sowing ornamental corn, winter wheat, and fancy French melons. Ultimately, I decided that homegrown popping corn is highly overrated, and my cat took up napping in the middle of my ‘wheat field.'” She concludes that the two tiny Charentais melons her efforts produced “were absolutely delicious–well worth the time and garden space they occupied all summer.”While similar in some ways to her 2012 publication The Timber Press Guide to Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific Northwest, this book incorporates nine more years of Forkner’s experience. Check it out!

Reviewed by Brian Thompson for the Leaflet for Scholars, August 2022, Volume 9, Issue 8.Editor’s note: A longer version of Brian’s review was originally published in the Autumn 2021 issue of Northwest Horticultural Society’s Garden Notes.

Sustainable Food Gardens: Myths and Solutions

Robert Kourik has eight books in the Miller Library, the earliest from 1986.  In all of these, he emphasizes the importance of adopting gardening practices that work with nature.  He is especially interested in the root systems of plants and ways to maintain soil integrity while conserving water and nutrients.  Based in Santa Rosa, California, at the southern edge of our region, his writing is easily transferable to Pacific Northwest gardeners.

In the years since his first book, he has continued to learn.  His newest title, “Sustainable Food Gardens,” takes the reader on this educational journey.  Many of his opinions have evolved in the last 35 years and some have completely changed.  Kourik is a good teacher.  He has conversational approach to his writing and is good at providing sources and reasons for his opinions, recognizing that some contradict traditional thinking.

At well over 400 pages with large outer dimensions, this is a hefty book.  I think it is best treated as a reference resource, to read individual chapters as needed.  Important concepts are sometimes repeated if relevant in multiple chapters.  While some may be frustrated by this structure, I found it very useful.  It is also important to know this does not have a dictionary of food plants.  While there are recommended choices for certain situations, another book is likely required for choosing your food crops.

Kourik encourages the food gardener to be realistic about the scale and setting for their garden.  What works on a large organic farm, might not be as effective on your small backyard plot or p-patch.  Some sustainable planting practices are only intended for warmer climates.  Be realistic, too, about the amount of maintenance a food garden requires and don’t over commit yourself.

One chapter is devoted to container gardening, recognizing this may be the only option for many urban gardeners.  The intricacies of drip water systems are thoroughly presented, as are the many other concerns of soil choices, fertilizing, and plants that are best suited for this growing environment.  But Kourik recognizes that the simplest approach is often the best.  “The quick-and-dirtiest way to grow plants like tomatoes on a deck or driveway is to buy a sack of potting soil or compost, lay if flat on its widest side, slit it open, and plant it with tomato or pepper seedlings.”

 

Excerpted from the Spring 2022 issue of the Arboretum Bulletin

 

Vegetable by Vegetable: A Guide for Gardening Near the Salish Sea

Marko Colby and Hanako Myers are organic gardeners in Quilcene, Washington, growing both vegetables to sell in markets and vegetable starts for home gardeners.  From their experiences answering the questions of their seedling buyers, they have put together a small (83 pages) but very useful book titled “Vegetable by Vegetable: A Guide for Gardening Near the Salish Sea.”

The sub-title recognizes the similarity of climates over a wide range of coastal British Columbia and Washington.  As an example, they note how the growing season around Puget Sound is more comparable to northern Vancouver Island than to much closer areas just east of the Cascade Mountains.

The advice is very direct and encouraging.  For tomatoes, “few varieties have complete resistance to fungal disease and some amount of disease is normal (Try not to worry too much!).”  I recommend you give this user-friendly little book a try.

Excerpted from the Spring 2022 issue of the Arboretum Bulletin

Garden Tip #431

Believe or not, but when the first cherry tomatoes ripen in July it’s time to start planning the fall and winter vegetable garden in the Pacific Northwest. Beets, beans, kale and other cold hardy crops need to be sown in July or August so that they have a few weeks to bulk up before night time temperatures drop after the autumn equinox. The idea is to get the plants to almost harvestable size before the weather really turns cold, and then gardens acts as a kind of refrigerator, keeping the vegetables in stasis until we’re ready to eat them. If you miss the seed starting window there is still time to buy transplants from local nurseries until early September.

These two publications from Washington and Oregon State University Extensions have all the details to ensure success.

Garden Tip #54

Advanced vegetable gardeners who want go to the next level of self reliance will enjoy the attractive book by John Seymour, The Self-Sufficient Life and How to Live It (Dorling Kindersley, 2003, $30.00). This very practical book gives “how-to” instructions for a wide range of traditional living skills. How to raise (and butcher) poultry and rabbits, how to grow grain crops, how to make a methane digester to create energy and how to spin flax are just a few examples. The author’s intention is to encourage readers to question how truly satisfying the modern life is compared to an honest day’s work on the homestead. But even urban dwellers will find ideas for making their own food and craft products.

The simple life has gone digital, too. For articles and ideas on living a self-sufficient life, check out Mother Earth News and www.homestead.org.

Safety of ceramic pots for edible gardening

My question is about the ceramic pots that you see in nurseries and
places in the area. The pots are glazed on the outside, and unglazed on
the inside, and they are made in China and Vietnam. Are these pots safe for planting vegetables and herbs? Or, are there materials in the interiors of the pots that could leach into the soil and make the vegetables and herbs unsafe to eat?

Some ceramic glazes do contain toxic materials, such as lead and cadmium.
Washington State Department of Health has information on preventing lead poisoning, and on testing for lead.

State of Oregon’s Lead Poisoning Prevention Program includes information on sources of lead exposure, including pottery.

California Department of Health has several pages on toxins in pottery.

Excerpt:

“The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) sets standards at the
national level for the amount of lead that can pass out of, or ‘leach,’
from dishes. Tableware with lead levels greater than these standards
cannot legally be sold in the U.S. The FDA regulations cover only
tableware that is imported or that is brought into the state for sale.
The standards apply only to items that are used for foods and beverages.
They do not apply to pieces that either cannot hold liquids or are not
intended to hold liquids, such as salt shakers, cookie jars, butter
dishes, etc. See the table below for the FDA standards for lead in
ceramicware.

Decorative ceramics
The FDA has labeling rules for ornamental or decorative ceramics that are
not intended for food use. These items must either (1) be permanently
labeled with a logo or statement that they are unsuitable for food use,
or (2) be made incapable of holding liquid. If an item is clearly
intended for food use, such as a bean pot, labeling it is not sufficient,
however. It must be made unusable, for example, by having a hole drilled
through any surface that could hold liquid.”

My co-worker tells me that some retail stores are good about informing customers if pots are unsafe for food use. This
document
from Clemson University Extension (although its focus is
cookware) suggests that you not use pottery which does not bear the
label, “Safe for Food Use:”

If a pot has been fired at a high temperature (something you cannot
easily ascertain by looking at it), my thought would be that there would
be less likelihood of toxic material from the glaze leaching inward, but
if the clay itself comes from a source which is full of contaminants,
there may be a risk apart from the glaze. If you are at all concerned
about using these pots for growing food, my advice would be not to do it.
There are other ways of growing food in containers, such as untreated
wood boxes or barrels. See links here for general information on growing
vegetables in containers:

Vegetable Gardening in Containers from Virginia Cooperative Extension.
Plants Grown in Containers from North Carolina State University.

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Planting shallots

How far apart should I plant my shallot starts?

According to Steve Solomon’s Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades (Sasquatch Books, 2007), plant them 3 to 4 inches apart in rows 18 inches apart. Other sources suggest you can make the rows as close together as 12 inches, and the plants as far apart as 6 inches.

Ontario Ministry of Agriculture has a useful page about shallots which recommends 4 to 6 inches between plants.

corn varieties for Seattle

Can you tell me some varieties of corn that do well here? I would like to do an early and a midseason variety. Which ones do you like the best?

 

I consulted Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades by Steve Solomon, and he says the thing to look for is the number of heat units (HU) required for the corn to reach maturity. Early corn needs about 1,300 HU, later types need over 2,200. We need to choose varieties on the lower end of the HU scale. (Seed catalogs for commercial growers typically have this information, while retail catalogs may not. If you look at a Northwest catalog, such as Territorial Seeds in Oregon, the maturity dates will be closer to our own.)

Solomon lists ‘Earlivee’ as an early sweet corn variety. In general, he seems to prefer hybrid varieties to open-pollinated, because they may have low yields and less than optimum eating quality, although ‘Hooker’s Sweet Indian’ is one that Territorial carries and which he thinks is worthwhile. He recommends ‘Jubilee’ as a main season hybrid choice, but says, “It will just barely mature in warmer microclimates around Puget Sound.” He recommends choosing small-eared and richly flavored varieties like ‘Seneca,’ and his final word is that he would grow early corn as the main crop in our area.

The New Twelve Month Gardener: A West Coast Guide has a longer list of recommended varieties, but less detail about their particular requirements and merits: ‘Golden Jubilee,’ ‘Seneca Horizon,’ ‘Sugar Dots,’ ‘Bodacious,’ ‘Chief Ouray,’ ‘Miracle,’ ‘Sugar Buns,’ ‘Jubilee Super Sweet,’ ‘Seneca Appaloosa,’ and ‘Golden Bantam.’

vegetables for a short growing season

I have set up four-by-eight-foot raised vegetable beds in the only available spot in my backyard (here in the Pacific Northwest). In winter, the house casts its shadow over the entire bed area. With the progress of the seasons, the shadow recedes and leaves the beds entirely in the sun only by approximately mid-May. Similarly, the house shadow again begins to encroach on the bed area by the beginning of August.

What can I grow with this ultrashort growing season? What vegetables, if any, are likely to succeed here?

It sounds like you have about 75 days of well-lit growing season. The Maritime Northwest Garden Guide by Lisa Taylor (Seattle, WA: Seattle Tilth, 2014) lists several varieties of vegetables come to harvest within 75 days in our
area, and here’s what I see:

  • carrots
  • swiss chard
  • cress
  • kohlrabi
  • lamb’s quarters
  • lettuce (if picked young)
  • arugula
  • spinach
  • summer squash
  • turnips
  • purslane
  • shungiku (edible chrysanthemum)
  • swiss chard
  • kale
  • tatsoi
  • bok choi/pac choi

In 10 Terrific Vegetables, produced by the National Gardening Association, the author suggests that vegetable gardens require at least 6 hours of sun per day (South Burlington, Vt. : National Gardening Association, 2002). Some fast-maturing vegetable varieties listed include ‘Green Comet’ Broccoli (40 days) ‘Packman’ broccoli (53 days), Kentucky Wonder beans (60 days), Romano beans (75 days), basil (70 days), ‘Amsterdam’ and ‘Nantes’ carrots (60 days), ‘Sugarsnap’ peas (62 days–and they should be planted earlier, before the soil warms), ‘North Star’ red pepper (60 days), ‘Melody,’ ‘Space,’ ‘Tyee,’ and ‘Bloomsdale Longstanding’ spinach (all under 45 days), ‘Sun Gold’ tomato (57 days).

In general, you can find the number of days to maturity listed on the back of seed packets, so you can check if the varieties you want will ripen in time. Another quick-harvest vegetable is the radish, which can be ready to eat in just a few weeks. I’ve also had some luck with potatoes in less-sunny locations, although they do take a fair amount of space.

You might also consider growing raspberries, which don’t need sun quite as much as vegetables, in one of your beds.