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Clematis and hard pruning

We are tearing out an old wood fence and replacing it with a new cedar fence, 6 feet high. We have a mature Clematis montana rubens growing on the old fence, prolific in growth and bloom, that I would very much like to save. Can I save it? We will have to start taking the old fence down right away. The new one is being installed next week, so I cannot wait until fall, which would probably be a better time to cut it back. Where do I begin pruning? Where do I stop? Anything I can do to lessen the shock to the plant?

Clematis montana is in pruning group 1 (or A) which means they do not take well to hard pruning. However, if it is the only way to save your Clematis, it is worth a try.

This is what the British Clematis Society recommends:

Category 1 (or A): No pruning.

“This category includes: C. montana If you wish to prune these types because they have outgrown their space they should be pruned immediately after flowering. You may or may not lose your plant as a result of the pruning. You might want to reduce the plant size over two or three seasons rather than in one go.

How-to: Start at the bottom of the plant and work your way up the stem to the first pair of plump, healthy buds. Prune the stem above the buds and remove everything above the cut. Treat each stem in a similar way.”

Pruning is safer than transplanting:

“If a Clematis is to be replanted from an existing site, the late winter before bud break is the time to do this. However, it is only the large-flowered cultivars that generally can be replanted from an open ground position due to their large fleshy roots. The Clematis species and their cultivated forms have a very fibrous root system that usually breaks up when it is being dug up. The montana types are extremely difficult to replant once they have been established for more than two or three years.”
Source: The Gardener’s Guide to Growing Clematis, by R. Evison, 1998, p. 39).