growing peas in the fall

I wonder why I’ve never known anyone who grows peas in the fall. I am an experienced gardener and have specialized in fall/winter vegetables. I am guessing the soil temperatures in the summer aren’t “friendly” to peas. I have some shelling pea seed that I think I’ll try, but wondered if you can find any information that will indicate how to be successful.

Your guess is a good one. Here is what Binda Colebrook says in Winter Gardening in the Maritime Northwest (Timber Press, 1998):
“It is theoretically possible to make a July sowing of peas and get a fall crop just before the fall frosts. The problem is that it is hard to keep these moisture-loving, cool-weather plants going through the rigors of the hottest part of summer. Even if you do manage this, there is a virus in the Northwest, called pea enation, that will cripple most varieties.”
Colebrook recommends seeking an enation-resistant variety, but further states that, having tried some of these resistant types, “so far I’d say it isn’t worth the trouble.”

Washington State University Extension doesn’t go into the specifics but you can read between the lines that a summer sowing will not result in a bumper crop of peas:
“Peas can be planted in early November for an early June crop. They may not make it every winter. Green peas and edible pod peas (sugar peas) can be planted until mid-July. A moderate harvest can be expected in fall.”

Note Westside Gardener’s blog post mention of the Alderman variety of shelling peas:
“The bad thing about older varieties of peas is they don’t have the disease resistance of newer types. Up here in the Maritime Pacific Northwest, two diseases seem to cause the most problems for pea growers. The first is powdery mildew, a non-specific fungus that we’re all familiar with. Powdery mildew often isn’t a killer though, and it can be controlled when necessary with wettable sulfur. A worse disease is Pea Enation Mosaic, which does kill non-resistant varieties. Enation is a virus which is spread by the Green Peach aphid, so controlling ranges from difficult to impossible (it only takes one aphid to infect a plant). Usually what happens is the weather warms up, and the aphids become active. Often this coincides with the peas starting to set pods heavily. When a plant becomes infected, it’s pods become warty-looking and rather woody. Soon after, the plants die. It can be very disappointing to have your plants all dry up just as you’re looking forward to harvest. As far as I know, there is no practical way to control enation. All of my favorite varieties, of course, are susceptible to Enation Mosaic.

When it comes to shelling peas, I still haven’t found anything to beat Alderman […] Some years I get a good harvest, while other years the vines are wiped out by Enation. The flavor is so good, though, that I find the gamble worthwhile. I am trying out a new pea this year, which is somewhat earlier than Alderman – Maxigolt […] Earlier maturity means it should yield more in those years enation strikes, but flavor will determine whether it unseats Alderman from its place in my garden.”

on harvesting red currants

I have picked my red currants. Some berries on the bunches are still green. Is it possible to ripen them in the house?

Most sources say that you should pick entire strigs (the name for the bunches of fruit) when they are fully ripe. I don’t think the green currants will ripen successfully indoors. However, currants which are to be used for making preserves may be picked slightly before full ripeness (but not when green), according to an archived article on fruit harvesting, published by the University of Idaho Extension:

“Currants may be harvested two or three times, but all of the fruit from a particular cultivar is usually harvested at one time. Wait until all of the berries on the bush are ripe. Berries at the tops of the fruit clusters ripen before those at the tips. Harvest the fruit after it softens and is fully ripe, but before it begins to shrivel. […] Pick the fruit by pinching off the fruit clusters (called strigs) where they attach to the stem. Particularly with red and white currants, do not strip the berries from the clusters.”

University of Illinois Extension has similar recommendations (link no longer available):

“Currant: For eating out-of-hand, currants should be dead ripe and picked just before eating. For making jam and jelly, however, pick them when they are firm but not fully ripe. Pectin content is high at this stage. Currants have a naturally high pectin content and thus are excellent choices for jelly- and jam-making. To harvest currants, twist the cluster off of the branch first, then strip the berries from the cluster. Don’t attempt to pick the berries one-by-one.”

on the origin of hollyhock

What’s the origin of the hollyhock?

I consulted The Gardener’s Atlas by John Grimshaw (Firefly Books, 1998) and in the section on mallows, Alcea rosea (garden hollyhock) is described as “indigenous to the Near East.” It was initially grown to be used for its fiber, like fellow Malvaceae family member Gossypium (cotton), but it didn’t work well for that purpose, and has been used as an ornamental plant in Europe since the Middle Ages. Its seeds may have been taken to northern and western Europe by returning Crusader soldiers. “The soldiers added ‘holy’ to hoc, the Anglo-Saxon word for a mallow.” All the doubles and strains with variegated flowers were cultivated in European gardens. There is a smaller species, Alcea rugosa, which is native to the Ukrainian steppes.

on collecting Yucca seeds

I live in New Mexico, and I’d like to harvest Yucca seed to share with the local cactus and succulent society. Last time I tried, I didn’t find any seeds at all. I want to go about this the right way–can you tell me what I should do?

In searching for an answer to your question about how and when to collect seed from Yuccas, I came across several articles on the interdependence of Yuccas and Yucca moths. Here is one example (now archived), from Emporia State University:

Excerpt:
“… the yucca plant and yucca moth are the textbook case of coevolution. First, the yucca plant has no ability to reproduce seeds without the moth. Yuccas can propagate small rosettes around the parent plant, but these vegetative sprouts are copies of the parent. Over decades, the plant cannot move but a few feet, and there is no possibility for genetic variation. Without the moth, the whole flowering effort (expensive to the plant in energy terms) is a total waste. The only pollinator of the plant is the yucca moth; bees are not attracted and neither wind nor bees can pick up the sticky pollen.

The yucca moth is likewise dependent upon the yucca plant. There are no alternate host plants known for the yucca moth; the yucca moth caterpillars must eat yucca seeds or starve. Without the plant, the moths die off in one generation. Without the moth, the plant cannot reproduce variation or disperse; given any major climate changes, it too will go extinct. The system is therefore tightly coevolved.[…] You can watch yucca moths pollinate flowers between dusk and midnight. The female gathers pollen from the flower anthers by using her specially adapted mouthparts, called palps. She forms the sticky pollen into a ball which she carries between her tentacles and her thorax (under her “chin” so to speak). The pollen ball is then “stuffed” or “combed” into the stigma of the various flowers she visits. The stigma is the receptive tip of the female pistil. Without this process, the yucca flower will not develop into the fruit or pod with seeds.”

The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum states that Yucca may not set seed every year:

“Biologists have only recently determined that almost every species of yucca has its own species of yucca moth; some yuccas have two moth species. Such a tight mutualism has risks for both partners. Emergence of adult moths must coincide with yucca flowering for the reproductive needs of both species to be met. However, the synchronization of moth emergence with flowering is frequently poor and seed set and moth reproduction in such years are low. Furthermore, yucca populations may flower sparsely or not at all in dry years. Yuccas don’t have to set seed every year because they flower many times in their long lives.”

Regarding seed collecting and preparation, a question similar to yours was answered by the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center:

“Gather capsules as they begin to dry but before they split. Allow to dry, then crush to remove seeds. Overwinter, keep seeds in moist sand in the refrigerator. For longer storage periods, keep in sealed, refrigerated containers.

At the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, we have collected and prepared yucca seeds for the Millennium Seed Bank. Crushing the pod to remove seeds is not as easy as it sounds. We found that pliers worked about as well as anything, but it was a struggle, either way. Inside the broken pod, you will find channels of seeds. They are flat, black wafers, very thin. As you pull out a stack of them, you may find a neat, round hole drilled up the center. This is the nursery for the larvae of the yucca moth, who have been munching on the seeds. However, the yucca moth is essential for the blooming of the plant.”

Late summer to early fall (September/October) seems to be the time when some Yucca seeds ripen. Several places I looked suggested this is the case, including Plants for a Future database, which describes propagation for several species of Yucca.

bumble bee nest removal

I am taking a large, overgrown fern out of our backyard, to make room for more lawn (we are doing the opposite in other parts of our outdoor space). While I was cutting off the fronds, to get to the root, bees started to hang out near the cuttings. There seems to be a bumblebee nest at the base of our fern. I know that honeybees have been dying. Should I leave the bees’ nest? They are not aggressive, but I would like to take out the plant. Is there some way to move the nest?

Bumblebees are bees native to North America, and they are above all important
pollinators, so if you can leave them, that would be ideal. Fortunately, bumble
bees nest for only one year, so if you don’t mind waiting until fall to remove
your plant that might be the best solution for you and them. This
information, and more, is in Garden Insects of North America, by Whitney Cranshaw
(Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2004). Like honeybees, bumblebees are currently experiencing
a decline, so it’s a good time to protect them. The Xerces Society has useful information on this and other bee-related topics.

Bees choose their nests in the spring, when a queen bumblebee comes out from hibernation. They often choose an old rodent or bird’s nest, or something else with lots
of good insulation, and establish a colony. Find more about the life cycle of bumblebees here. In fact, you can encourage bumblebees to nest in spring by building them a
nesting site! The Xerces Society describes nest plans, if you would like to encourage bumblebees elsewhere.

If you do decide you need to move the plant before fall, you might be able to
get information on moving the next by contacting the Puget Sound Beekeepers
Association or a Seattle-area stinging-insect enthusiast, Jerry the Bee Guy. Another local stinging insect removal expert is Dan the Bee Man.

evergreen daylilies for the PNW

Can you recommend an evergreen daylily for this area? There are none listed with Greatplantpicks.org, but surely there must be some that thrive in this area. I’m trying to purchase bare root to save on costs, and haven’t had much luck.

There are several evergreen daylilies which should do just fine in our area. Here is some information (now archived) from University of Vermont Extension (where winter is more of an issue):

Excerpt:
“Catalogs list daylilies as D (dormant), SE (semi-evergreen), or E (evergreen). Dormant daylilies stop growing and drop their leaves when the days are short, much like deciduous trees. Evergreen daylilies are not affected by short days and hold their foliage until it is literally frozen off during the winter. Semi-evergreens are somewhere between dormants and evergreens. Many evergreen daylilies are perfectly hardy in the North, but the foliage may be somewhat unattractive in early spring.”

You might get some ideas from this archived article published in the Seattle Times by Valerie Easton. B & D Lilies, a Port Townsend area nursery lists several evergreen cultivars, and some are available as bare root plants.

propagating Phalaenopsis orchids

I have a question about a Phalaenopsis orchid. The orchid is a year old and at the top of last year’s flower stalk has grown a new set of leaves as well as roots. Can this be cut off and re-rooted? Also, after the blooms fade, do you cut the stalk off and if so, how far?

Here is some information on propagation of Phalaenopsis, from a commercial orchid grower:

“Phalaenopsis can be vegetatively propagated by cutting the flowering stem above a stem internode, the dormant growth ‘eye’ is covered with a triangular sheath. Cut, with a hot knife or shears, through the flower stem after the last flower has fallen. Then move the plant to a dimmer area. In most cases, new plants will start from the dormant ‘eyes.’ After the new plants initiate, the mother and ‘keikis’ (babies) can be move gradually back to higher light. When the keikis have 2-3 roots, the keikis can be removed, by slicing between the stem and the keiki, or cutting the stem above and below keiki’s attachment point. The new plant can now be potted up and grown on. If more flowers are desired, cut the stem as above, but do not move the plant. In the second method, the mother plant is topped. As a monopodial plant, Phals continue to grow vertically. In time, they discard their lower leaves. The leaves have served as a storage vessel of water and nutrients. The leaves have outlived their usefulness and are discarded. New roots are produced above the leafless stem, as the Phal continues growing vertically. The stem can be cut below the new roots. The top part, with leaves and roots, can be repotted after proper care of the cut. The remaining stub can be left as is, for a few days/weeks. Soon, new little plants will be found growing out of the old stub. These keikis can be repotted in the same manner as the first method. They will grow on and eventually bloom. If left on the stub, they will often bloom sooner, than if individually potted.”

The American Orchid Society has a video illustrating the potting of a keiki, as well as a host of other orchid care information.

You may find the following links to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden useful for general directions on orchid care. Here is an excerpt:
“Some species will also produce plantlets on the flowering spikes, complete with leaves and roots. These small offshoots can be pruned and planted, but keep in mind that transition from plantlet to flowering specimen is a long process requiring several years and lots of patience.” Here is another helpful link from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden website.

As for what to do with a spent flower stalk, here is what the Royal Horticultural Society recommends: “A flower spike can continue to bloom for up to three months. Once faded, cut the spike just above the second node (joint) beneath the spent flowers, and a flowering sideshoot may develop.”

hummingbirds and plants’ supply of nectar

I would like to know how the hummingbird’s feeding affects the level of nectar in flowers. I already know about which flowers produce nectar that will attract hummingbirds. My main concern is whether hummingbirds can use up a plant’s supply of nectar.

There has been some research which suggests that a plant’s production of nectar is regulated by hormones. Sometimes the hormone attracts one creature in order to repel another. The article excerpted below suggests that rapeseed plants produce nectar to attract ants that will defend them against caterpillars. Source: Max Planck Society for the Advancement of Science (March 29,2010):
“Jasmonic acid and related molecules are constituents of molecular signal transduction chains in plant tissues. These compounds – generally referred to as jasmonates – are synthesized when caterpillars feed on plants; they are signalling substances and belong to the group of plant hormones. By producing jasmonates the plant regulates its defence against herbivores e.g. by stimulating the synthesis of toxins. Moreover, previous studies have shown that jasmonates regulate the production of “extrafloral nectar”. This particular nectar, which is produced by special glands called “extrafloral nectaries”, has nothing to do with pollination, but attracts ants to the herbivore-attacked plants as defenders against their pests. The sugars in the nectar reward the ants for defending the plant. The same principle applies to floral nectar: nectar production in the flowers attracts and rewards pollinators which in turn contribute substantially to the seed yield. However, up to now, it has not been clear how nectar production is regulated in the flowers.”

In the book The Biology of Nectaries edited by Barbara Bentley and Thomas Elias (Columbia University Press, 1983), there is an essay called “Patterns of nectar production and plant-pollinator co-evolution” (by Robert William Cruden et al.) which states that “flowers pollinated by high-energy requiring animals [this would include hummingbirds] produce significantly more nectar than flowers pollinated by low-energy requiring animals, such as butterflies, bees, and flies.”

Similarly, plants whose pollinators are active in the day produce more nectar during the day, and plants pollinated by nocturnal creatures will make more nectar at night.
So clearly there is an intricate system of response between the needs of the plants and the needs of the hummingbirds, and the biology of individual plants has evolved to serve the plants’ interests which are tied to those of pollinators. In effect, the hummingbird can’t exhaust the nectar supply of the flowers, because the plant has adapted to meet its needs.

on shade gardening

Which flowers can be planted in the shade?

The University of Minnesota Extension Service article entitled, “Gardening in the Shade” provides lists of annuals, perennials and herbs that do well in the shade.

Gardening with Ed Hume offers advice about growing plants in shady areas under tall trees.

For resources specific to the Pacific Northwest, try the list of shade perennials from Paghat’s Garden, Great Plant Picks, King County’s searchable Native Plant Guide, and lists of native plants for mostly to fully shady sites Washington Native Plant Society. There are also numerous books available in the Miller Library. Here is a booklist.

aquatic plants and water gardening

I am looking for information about planting floating emergent plants (e.g., water shield, yellow pond lily) in natural ponds. If planting young plant material in the soil, what is the recommended water depth? Is it okay to submerge the entire shoot? If yes, what is a safe depth from top of shoot to water surface?

There are several different types of plants that are grown in ponds. A great resource on planting floating plants is The Water Gardener’s Bible: A step-by-step guide to building, planting, stocking, and maintaining a backyard water garden by Ben Helm and Kelly Billing (Rodale Inc., 2008). In the book they explain that floating plants will either float on the pond surface or be slightly submerged. The most popular floating plants are Frog’s bit (Hydrocharis morsus-ranae), Water hyacinth (Eichornia crassipes), Water chestnut (Trapa natans), and Water soldier (Pistia stratiotes). They also explain submerged plants that will inhabit a pond at all levels, from those whose roots sit on the bottom to those that emerge from the pond, getting only their feet wet. For planting a water lily, place on a stack of bricks in the position where the lily will be sited, so that the top of the planted basket is no more than 1 inch (3 cm) below the surface. As the leaves start to extend, remove the bricks until the basket is on the pond bottom.

Another great book is Plants for Water Gardens: The Complete Guide to Aquatic Plants by Helen Nash and Steve Stroupe (Sterling, 1998). The book contains a huge list of a variety of lily plants and specifications for planting and survival.

Texas A & M Extension has a website on water gardening with useful information on planting aquatic plants. You may want to check your local list of invasive species before planting.