parking strip vegetable gardening

I want to plant my parking strip for a vegetable garden. Do I need a permit from the city? And if so where do I get a permit?

You do not need a Street Use permit for gardening activities in the planting strip.
Here are the City of Seattle’s current guidelines for parking strip gardening.

Linden Mead, a Seattle Department of Transportation arborist, addresses one of the concerns I would have about planting edible crops next to a street:

“Although the list may not be exhaustive, and gardeners are encouraged
to be creative, they do need to follow some parameters. Plants grown
within the area equal to or less than 30 feet from an intersection
may not exceed 24″ (2 feet) in height at maturity. This is so that
visibility is adequately maintained (cars and pedestrians visible
to each other). When a planting strip is 5 feet wide or less, plants
may not exceed 36” (3 feet) in height at maturity. This is to help
assure pedestrian safety/visibility as well as to maintain pedestrian
walkways and the roadway clear of overgrowth which may impede travel
on the right-of-way. With wider strips, it is possible to put in scattered,
taller plants, if planted in the middle of the strip.

“There are also regulations about ‘hardscape’ – which may include
planting beds in the strip. Raised beds may be constructed from
timber but rocks or bricks that are easily moved (read here ‘picked
up and thrown’) are not allowed. Permits are also required to plant, prune or remove trees.”

Seattle Department of Transportation has specific information about growing food in the planting or parking strip. There are some concerns as well as a few restrictions, described here:
“SDOT prohibits fruit trees because of the slipping hazard for pedestrians from fallen fruit. For some residents, it’s their only sunny area to grow vegetables. But the planting strip is a public space, part of the public right-of-way, so it’s hard to control what pets or people do there. It can be harder to reach with water, and there may be concerns with the soil.” It is also a good idea to test the soil for contaminants before planting edible crops.

planting bamboo near a property line

Are there any restrictions to planting bamboo near a property
line? We are planting it at least 1 1/2 feet from the property line and
will be using the appropriate barrier (if planting the runner variety) or
clumping bamboo. Basically we want to regain some privacy for our yard
and house but not encroach upon the neighboring property.

Although I cannot speak to whether there are legal restrictions about
planting bamboo (this would be a question for King County Law Library), my hunch is
that as long as you take the necessary precautions to control the spread
of the plant by installing a root or rhizome barrier, it should not pose
a problem. If you intentionally planted an uncontrolled invasive plant at
the property line, it might be possible for someone to contend that it
was malicious, as mentioned below (Revised Code of Washington):

RCW 7.40.030

Malicious erection of structure may be enjoined.

An injunction may be granted to restrain the malicious erection, by any
owner or lessee of land, of any structure intended to spite, injure or
annoy an adjoining proprietor. And where any owner or lessee of land has
maliciously erected such a structure with such intent, a mandatory
injunction will lie to compel its abatement and removal.

The American Bamboo Society has helpful information (now archived) on how to control
bamboo. Here is an excerpt describing barriers:

To prevent a running bamboo from spreading, a rhizome barrier is
essential. A barrier two or three feet deep is effective. It should be
slanted outward at the top so that when the rhizomes hit the barrier they
will bend upwards. A barrier does not stop a running rhizome; it only
deflects it. The barrier should project an inch or two above ground
level. Check the barrier once a year, and cut off rhizomes that arch over
the top.

Barriers can be concrete, or metal, or plastic. The usual recommendation
is high-density polypropylene, 40 mil or heavier, glued or taped at
junctions, or clamped with stainless-steel clamps. This material comes in
rolls, or as hinged sections, and is available from some landscape
suppliers and bamboo nurseries, frequently termed root barrier. More
elaborate barriers with corner posts that hold the material at the proper
angle are also available.

One other option is to plant your bamboo in pots. Even then, you would
need to check the bottoms of the pots periodically for escaping roots.
You can also purchase lengths of bamboo fencing or willow fencing, if you
do not wish to install a heavier fence. Here is an example of willow fencing, and here is a local company, Bamboo Builders Northwest, which has examples of bamboo fencing.

controlling weevils on salal and Rhododendron

Last year I had a big problem with weevils in my salal, rhododendrons and a few other shrubs. I am not sure if they returned after putting down beneficial nematodes last fall.

Weevils are tough! You are on the right track with beneficial nematodes. It might take a few seasons to make a difference. Here is a link to information by entomologist Art Antonelli of Washington State University about controlling weevils, especially on Rhododendron.

controlling aphids on prune trees

My prune tree has tons of aphids in the leaves (also a lot of ladybugs to eat them but I am not sure the ladybugs will win out). Do I need to try to rid the tree of the aphids? If so how?

The question of whether to control aphids in your prune tree really depends on how bad the infestation is and if the tree is otherwise healthy enough to outgrow them. Often infestations like aphids are a symptom of a larger problem. The tree may be stressed out by root competition from grass or too much or not enough water, too much or not enough nitrogen. A stressed out tree is attractive to aphids, who in turn attract lady bugs.
My own mature prune tree gets covered in aphids every year. The leaves get distorted, and lady bugs come in droves. Some years I get a good harvest and some years I do not. I choose not to worry about it (I have other plants to fuss over). But if you feel the need to do something, see the HortSense website from Washington State University.

transportation of plants across state lines

I will be transporting plants from Oregon to Washington to sell to the public. Are there any restrictions, such as quarantines, that are important to know about?

You should contact the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS).

The Oregon Department of Agriculture has information on plant exports, quarantines, and permits. There are also Washington State codes about the transportation of plants that can be found in Chapter 17.24 RCW, Insect Pests and Plant Diseases. You can then click on specific sections, such as 17.24.081, Prohibited acts.

Additionally, this site makes reference to the Washington Administrative Code and includes information about standards that apply to plants and pests. See Chapter 16-402 WAC, Plant Pest Infestations and Plant Labeling standards.

You can also click on the embedded links to look at the specific standards.

online birch tree identification guides

Are there any tree identification guides online? In particular, I am interested in weeping birch.

For several excellent images of weeping birch (Betula pendula), go to
Oregon State University’s and click on Betula pendula. Look at all the images associated with this species of birch.

Also try Virginia Tech’s tree identification page.

Here are some other online tree identification guides:
What Tree Is It
University of Wisconsin’s Tree i.d.
Cal Poly’s Urban Tree Key

environmentally sensitive methods for removing Himalayan blackberry

I am wondering about an environmentally sensitive way to get rid of blackberries. I understand that mowing them consistently for 4 years works, but unfortunately this is not an option because of the terrain. If an herbicide is our only option, can you recommend one that has minimal impact?

The area is quite large – a mile long and 20 feet wide.

Invasive.org has produced a document entitled Controlling Himalayan Blackberry in the Pacific Northwest. It includes manual removal, shading, grazing, biological controls, and last-resort herbicide information. (We cannot recommend any specific herbicides, as we are not licensed pesticide handlers.)

The Northwest Coalition for Alternatives to Pesticides has information on nonchemical blackberry control.

For additional information, phone the Master Gardener’s DialExtension (King County) at 206-296-3425 (or 800-325-6165, ext.6-3425) and listen to tape #1274 about removing blackberries. However, the solutions given in this tape may apply to smaller areas, rather than the larger stand you mentioned.

An interesting idea that some people are trying locally is the use of goats.
This article in the Seattle Post-Intelligencer mentions Healing Hooves of Spokane. There is at least one company on Vashon Island which offers this service as well. Another P-I article mentions Rent-a-Ruminant.

This document from Sound Native Plants contains contact information for several such services.

on roof moss removal

I’d like to hear your thoughts about the safest way to
remove moss from the north side of my roof. I do
organic gardening, and I don’t want to contaminate the
soil with runoff.

The City of Portland had a guide to safe moss removal (formerly available online) indicating that that the most common product sold for moss removal, zinc sulfate, is a pollutant and is toxic to aquatic life. They do say that zinc strips on the roof are an alternative, but they also release zinc, and are pretreated with pesticide.

Toxic-Free Future (formerly Washington Toxics Coalition) offers several recommendations, including physical removal of the moss, landscape planning to keep the roof clear, and the aforementioned zinc strips

Oregon State University maintains a website devoted to mosses, and one page addresses the use of zinc strips as a control. Here is an excerpt:
“Zinc strips are usually considered the long-term solution to controlling mosses […] Zinc strips and galvanized flashing are apparently relatively safe and inexpensive. They effectively kill or retard the growth of mosses and fungi and appear to have effect up to 15 feet below the zinc flashing along the length of the flashing. To use: apply the rolled zinc or galvanized flashing to each side of ridge caps along the roof peaks. Place a nail down each foot of the zinc strip. With each rain zinc is released from the strip and kills the mosses below the strip. For best results remove the existing mosses prior to treatment. The active ingredient is metallic zinc.

Effectiveness: Zinc strips are considered to be effective for up to one year for most brands. The effect of galvanized flashing (example above) can persist for decades. Success rates vary with the degree of moss development and weather. Zinc strips or flashing are most effective before mosses are well developed. Physical removal of existing moss followed by installation of zinc strips or flashing is an effective long-term strategy for suppressing moss growth.

Negative Side Effects: Direct runoff from the zinc strips or flashing to surrounding vegetation, fish ponds, or water supplies should be avoided, because some contamination by zinc is likely to occur. Zinc strips should not be used with strong acids or bases.”

The PAN Pesticides Database has an entry for one type of rolled zinc strip product.

Washington Department of Ecology has a lengthy document analyzing zinc
concentrations in industrial runoff, and you can imagine that homes with
zinc strips are simply smaller contributors to this problem.

The Environmental Protection Agency lists zinc metal strips (consisting
solely of zinc metal and impurities) as minimum risk pesticides.

I think there is no easy solution, and it is a matter of deciding on a
lesser of two evils: the physical difficulties of cleaning the moss off
the roof, which is most environmentally sound, versus the relatively
small amount of pollution from using zinc strips.

managing mushrooms in lawns

Our backyard (which is flat and no pine trees) has hundreds of tiny mushrooms throughout the grass. Our front yard (which has a slight slope and one large pine tree) has many huge mushrooms. Otherwise, we have good looking grass. We have lived here for a very long time without ever seeing this problem. I know one answer is to “sweeten” the soil with lime. Should we do this now, in the fall, or at what time of year? Should we remove the mushrooms or let them be? Any other suggestions?

University of California, Davis Integrated Pest Management has guidelines on managing mushrooms in lawns. Here is an excerpt:
“Mushrooms found in lawns often develop from buried scraps of construction lumber, dead tree roots, or other organic matter. The fungi that produce these mushrooms are beneficial because they decompose organic matter in the soil, making nutrients available to other plants. These mushrooms usually are harmless to grasses, but some people consider them unsightly or want to get rid of them because young children play in the area. Remove mushrooms growing from buried wood or roots by picking them as they appear or by digging out the wood. Many of these mushrooms are associated with overirrigation or poor drainage. Removing excess thatch and aerating the soil to improve water penetration may help in some cases.”
The website further suggests adding nitrogen fertilizer, but bear in mind that excessive fertilizer contributes to urban runoff pollution.

As for sweetening the soil with lime(making it less acidic), it is best to do a soil test before attempting to amend for soil pH. The City of Seattle’s Natural Lawn Care information says that you would only need to “apply lime in the spring or fall if a soil test shows a calcium deficiency or acid soil conditions (pH less than 5).”

pruning and maintaining sword ferns

We leave for about 5 months in the winter and by the time we
get back our sword ferns have sprouted and it’s hard to prune the old
fronds out without cutting off the new ones. These ferns are in a fairly
protected area, so I was wondering if it would be okay to cut off the old
fronds in October before we leave? Also would it help if we just cut the
old fronds and lay them over the plant to help protect it over the
winter?

There are some slight differences of opinion on cutting back sword ferns.
It might be fine to cut the old fronds this fall and leave them as
protection over the winter, but it isn’t really necessary to cut them
back until early spring, if at all. The local web site for Great Plant
Picks recommends cutting sword ferns to the ground in late winter, or
only cutting back every 3 years or so on plants growing in poor soil:

Paghat’s Garden, another local gardening site recommends only cutting away dead fronds. Excerpt:

It was once believed it was necessary to cut all the fronds off in
February immediately before new growth begins, but it is now the
recommendation to only trim dead fronds. By April when the fiddleheads
are thickly erupting, any of last year’s fronds that have lost their
beauty should be removed, but only for looks’ sake, removing up to as
many as all of them. They’ll soon enough be replaced by new. Just don’t
remove the fronds before winter’s final frosts, as the reason this fern
adapted itself to keeping its fronds green at least until winters’ end is
to shelter & protect the humping crown from excessive cold or from
sunlight in winter when deciduous trees might not adequately shade the
rootcrown.

Since your plants are in a protected area, you might be able to go ahead
with your October trimming, but really the main reason to trim is an
aesthetic one, so it isn’t absolutely necessary.