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Food and the City: Histories of Culture and Cultivation

Food and the city book jacketThe UW Farm is a great example of the increasing interest in urban agriculture, but this is not a new movement. Food and the City: Histories of Culture and Cultivation provides historical snapshots of food growing projects from around the world, concentrating on the late 19th century through the mid-20th century. Two global depressions and two world wars made this a particularly difficult time for city dwellers.

These essays were developed from lectures given at a “Food and the City” symposium held at the Dumbarton Oaks research institution in Washington, D.C. in May 2012 that “…sought to historically contextualize the current discourse on urban agriculture.” I found the chapter written by Laura Lawson and Luke Drake of Rutgers University particularly engaging with its focus on American cities and because Lawson was a co-author of the 2009 book Greening Cities Growing Communities: Learning from Seattle’s Urban Community Gardens.

Both books bring an academic perspective on this very human activity of gardening. However, neither is locked in a strictly scholarly discourse. At the end of Lawson and Drake’s chapter in Food and the City, the authors conclude “In cities across America, food is being grown to feed families, to enliven communities, to provide economic opportunities, and to educate young and old…it is reassuring to realize that gardening for food is a normal part of the urban landscape…”

Published in the November 2016 Leaflet for Scholars Volume 3, Issue 11.

The Wildlife-Friendly Vegetable Gardener

The Wildlife-Friendly Vegetable Gardener jacket
Here’s a book on growing edible crops with a unique perspective, that our vegetable gardens can be planned and designed to encourage or at least coexist peacefully with wildlife. For example, you may not want to share your lettuce with slugs and snails, but you can make the garden hospitable to predators that consume mollusks (such as birds, toads, lizards, foxes, and skunks).

Many of the author’s recommendations are common-sense organic approaches to gardening, such as starting with the soil: respect the microorganisms and other soil-dwelling life forms by not over-tilling and disturbing soil structure; observe nature in your garden (keep a journal or sketchbook) and get to know the insects—beneficial and nuisance—and their life cycles, and the other creatures who visit regularly or seasonally.

Design elements in a wildlife-friendly edible landscape include a “perennial backbone” of fruiting trees and shrubs (fruiting ornamentals that will attract birds and other animals and dissuade them from eating the fruit you’ve planted for your own consumption), a water source, and “decoy plants” planted as a border around plants you intend to harvest for yourself. Some of the ideas here require a fair amount of space: not every urban food gardener has room for a hedgerow, or can afford to plant extra (sacrificial!) rows of crops for hungry critters. Still, you may have room for a few ornamental plants that attract pollinators or a few aromatic shrubs and herbs (like curry plant, Helichrysum italicum, or santolina, or lavender) that may discourage browsing by deer and rabbits.

Deer and rabbits are grazers, so they may not wipe out an entire crop in one fell swoop in the way that gorgers (such as raccoons) or hoarders (like squirrels) can. My own garden has become a favorite spot for these creatures, and they do not even wait for fruit to ripen before absconding with it. I was familiar with many of the “scare tactics” and devices the author suggests, but I had not thought of putting rubber snakes around fruit tree branches to intimidate birds, squirrels, and small rodents, or perching fake owls atop poles to ward off nocturnal foragers.

The book concludes with design plans for edible gardens that are aesthetically pleasing, functional, and inviting for humans as well as other living beings.

Edible Heirlooms: Heritage Vegetables for the Maritime Garden

book jacketEdible Heirlooms is a great little book! Little only in dimensions and number of pages, as the author carefully defines his purpose and limits his scope, but within those parameters shows you how to grow an outstanding vegetable garden in the maritime Pacific Northwest.

Most important, he sees this endeavor as part of a larger picture. “The challenge for me is to somehow integrate my vegetable-growing practices into a diverse ecosystem and, if possible, enhance biodiversity.” The key for this is to use heirloom varieties that can be regrown from collected seeds. Besides the mouth-watering descriptions, you will also get an excellent history lesson.

Straw Bale Gardens Complete

book jacketI was surprised to learn that there is a new way to grow vegetables. Inside straw bales. Yes, that is what I said, inside straw. This new book by Joel Karsten, Straw Bale Gardens Complete (Cool Springs Press, 2015), explains a method of growing and harvesting crops which is useful for increasing productivity while reducing labor. The chapters thoroughly cover planning your straw bale garden, and making straw bale greenhouses. There are extensive pages of garden layouts, including single, two, and three-bale gardens with tomato cages, trellises, and suggested plants. This approach to container gardening is using the straw bale itself, held together with two or three strings, with the outside crust of the bale serving as the container. The straw inside the bale will decompose, making it “conditioned” and ready to plant. The author gives step by step instructions for conditioning to create a warm, moist and nutrient rich rooting environment for seedlings. The author points out that straw bale gardens are ideal if you can’t do heavy lifting, can’t bend over, have poor soil, or limited space.

One thing to keep in mind is the difference between hay and straw, which often are confused. Straw comes from one of the cereal small-grain plants. Most common are oats, wheat, barley, rice, flax and rye. Hay is green, more coarse and wiry than straw. Hay can be baled alfalfa or any dozens of different grasses. Hay is fed to livestock as fodder. It contains all the seed heads inside the bale. But hay is not desirable for bale gardens. The book explains how to find and maintain the best straw for growing plants. If you are looking for a source for straw in the Seattle area, I’ve been able to supply my chickens with straw from The Grange in the University District. I also recommend using organic straw for vegetable gardening because you will want straw that has not been treated with herbicides or pesticides. Organic bales are usually sold at about the same prices as conventional ones.

The Seed Garden: The Art and Practice of Seed Saving

In the summer of 2015, I visited Seed Savers Exchange, a remarkable mecca for growers of heirloom vegetables, herbs, and flowers.  Located in rural Iowa, this organization has become world-renowned for its preservation of over 20,000 varieties of mostly food plants, not only providing safe storage for the seeds, but also maintaining the vitality of their collections by selective growing, germination testing, and researching the history of their sources.

While I would encourage all gardeners to visit Seed Savers, this may not be practical.  So instead, considering reading The Seed Garden: The Art and Practice of Seed Saving, published by the Exchange (and written by Micaela Colley and Jared Zystro) in which the basic philosophy and practices of the organization are distilled into very useful handbook for the home gardener.

Like many gardeners, I’ve done a bit of seed saving, and this book starts at that level – assuming a basic understanding of good gardening practices with a reminder that saved seeds are only useful from open-pollinated plants crossed with other plants from the same population.  Hybrids will not breed true.

I learned in the entry on lettuce – considered easy for beginners – that these plants are almost completely self-pollinating, and that different varieties only need 10 feet of separation to ensure purity.  Lettuce produces abundant seeds, but the quality is best on plants that are allowed to grow to maturity with minimal harvest, suggesting its best to designate a few stock plants for your breeding purposes.

There are also “Master Class” sections that cover more advanced subjects, including building isolation cages, avoiding inbreeding, and doing your own germination testing.  Most interesting is the process of extracting seeds from really messy plants, like tomatoes, but even with these, the reader is encouraged to try, using common kitchen tools.

The tone of the book throughout is positive and encouraging.  Even the usual negatives can be turned around.  “For many gardeners, the sight of bolting lettuce signals that its leaves have turned bitter and unpalatable, but these emerging flower talks also signal an impending harvest of ripened seeds.”  After reading this book I’m ready, with my patch of ‘Red Velvet’ lettuce, to become a serious seed saver.

 

Published in Garden Notes: Northwest Horticultural Society, Spring 2016

Patio Produce

bookAs a first time vegetable gardener, I was looking for a resource for planting and growing vegetables from a small space: my deck. This handy book, Patio Produce: How to Cultivate a Lot of Home-Grown Vegetables from the Smallest Possible Space by Paul Peacock really helped me start my garden. It simply showed me how to make the most out of my pots and how to plan for a reasonable crop yield. I especially enjoyed the chapters on how to grow vegetables on the patio. The author has an A-Z plant list and inside there are detailed step-by-step instructions on how to grow on the patio, including an “at a glance” table that contains helpful information on the plant’s pot size, sowing dates, care, and harvest information. The short but thorough snippets on specific plants, such as raspberries, strawberries, potatoes, and tomatoes helped me understand how to plant and take care of my crops.

Garden Tip #47

To find out which days in the lunar month are most favorable for planting root crops turn to the Old Farmer’s Almanac online at www.almanac.com The website is a condensed version of the printed edition with all the weather information a gardener could ever want, plus folksy gardening tips, frost dates and a manure guide. Check out the Growing Vegetables Chart to determine when to start seeds indoors or in the ground, when to fertilize and when to water through the growing season.

Garden Tip #35

A new magazine is available dedicated to antique treasures from the garden. The Heirloom Gardener is published four times per year for a mere $12.00. Articles in the winter 2004 issue range from a history of the Brandywine tomato, renovating neglected pome trees (apples and pears) to a profile on an heirloom vegetable farmer. Color photos and illustrations contribute to the thoughtful, informative articles. To subscribe call 1-866-OLD-SEED, or send a check to Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, 2278 Baker Creek Rd, Mansfield, MO 65704, or subscribe online at www.rareseeds.com

Garden Tip #155

Just as the spring planted vegetables are starting to really take off we’re told we must start planning for the fall garden. The problem is where to fit all these new starts. The answer is inter-cropping! For example, sow deep-rooted carrots with shallow rooted beans. Read more suggestions from Texas A & M.

The Timber Press Guide to Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific Northwest

Vegetable gardening book jacketIn “The Timber Press Guide to Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific Northwest,” Lorene Edwards Forkner gives a whole calendar of ideas of what to plant and what to harvest every month–what’s unusual is that the chapter on January, while having fewer pages, is still on equal footing with June, rather than be relegated to an off-season category.

Does year-round engagement with your garden sound daunting? Relax. Further reading encourages a steady but gentle approach–no more herculean “putting in the garden” effort in the spring–instead be strategic and realistic about how much garden you can handle and thankful for the bountiful resources of our region to provide what you leave out.

While this book is packed with information, it will work well for the novice, as Forkner is good with pointers for getting started. “If you are a beginning gardener, I recommend you learn to love your hose. Time spent at the end of it is the best education and the most accurate barometer of your garden’s needs.” I totally agree.

She also has some interesting ideas for the experienced gardener. She divides her veggies by flavor profiles, and then considers what fits into, for example, “sweet leaves” or “hearty greens.” Within each category there are plant options that which will give you a similar taste result, but some are easier to grow, or provide a harvest at different times of the year. This can simplify the planting list enormously.

Excerpted from the Summer 2013 Arboretum Bulletin.