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The Weeds


It’s hard to imagine a more botanical novel than Katy Simpson-Smith’s The Weeds, which takes its narrative structure from Richard Deakin’s 1855 book Flora of the Colosseum of Rome, or, Illustrations and Descriptions of Four Hundred and Twenty Plants Growing Spontaneously upon the Ruins of the Colosseum of Rome. The primary characters are two intentionally unnamed women, one in 2018 and the other in 1854, and the occasional refrain of a ghost, the unsettled spirit of Richard Deakin hovering over the Colosseum.

The contemporary woman is a graduate student from Mississippi, gathering plant observations for her thesis advisor. She is a keen observer of plants and people, and we soon learn she has recently lost her mother (who also had a strong connection with plants). As she works on the Rome Colosseum project, she develops an idea for a thesis exploring climate change through the plant life in Jackson’s Mississippi Coliseum. The 19th century woman has transgressed the norms of society: she is eager to avoid an arranged marriage and takes up petty thievery to make herself unmarriageable. The “you” addressed in her narrative is her lover, a woman. She works as Deakin’s indentured assistant, observing and describing the plants.

Both women consider the wild plants in context (how are they used by humans and animals, how they fit in an ecosystem, how climate affects them). For this, both are rebuked. The thesis advisor is dismissive, telling his student she has “an anecdotal mind,” whereas true scientists (men) are rational, and do not allow sentiment to intrude. Her role is to record and learn, his role is to interpret and author. The fictional Deakin tells his assistant that science is knowledge freed from emotion, and she wonders “how many days or centuries it will take for him to be proven wrong.” Whenever either woman mentions mystical, medical, or agricultural associations of the plants, they are told these things are irrelevant. But the 19th century woman believes “there is a bias against time here, and I must fault science for its disregard of history. Does it think knowledge is not accumulated but sudden?”

By turns furious, hilarious, and botanically erudite, this deeply feminist novel shines a light on the relative invisibility of women’s contributions to botany in particular and science in general. The women characters are never named because that has so often been the case in real life. Nothing in the historical record suggests a resemblance between the fictional Richard Deakin and the real one, but there are undoubtedly many instances of women overlooked and omitted as co-authors and researchers, whose contributions to the pool of knowledge remain unrecognized. Their absence from the record is a ghost that should haunt us.

The book includes a dozen exquisite graphite drawings by Kathy Schermer-Gramm, depicting selected plants of the character’s proposed Flora Colisea Mississippiana. If you want to explore Deakin’s book, a digitized copy is linked here and in the catalog record.

Reviewed by Rebecca Alexander, published in the Leaflet for Scholars, Volume 10, Issue 10, October 2023.

Controlling Parsley-piert

Slowly but surely, what’s left of my untended lawn is being overtaken by a small weed with fan-shaped leaves. It reminds me of a tiny Lady’s Mantle. What is it, and is there any hope of getting rid of it without herbicide?

Your description sounds like Aphanes australis, whose common name is slender parsley-piert. The common name derives from the plant’s leaves which resemble parsley, and the French ‘perce-pierre,’ meaning ‘break (or pierce) stone.’ It thrives in dry, exposed, or barren soils. North Carolina State University’s Turf Center describes cultural control methods:
“Winter annual broadleaf weeds germinate in the fall or winter and grow during any warm weather, which may occur in the winter, but otherwise remain somewhat dormant during the winter. They resume growth and produce seed in the spring and die as temperatures increase in late spring and early summer. They quickly invade thin turf areas especially where there is good soil moisture. Shade may also encourage growth. Many have a prostrate growth habit and are not affected by mowing. A dense, vigorous turf is the best way to reduce the encroachment of winter annual weeds. First, select adapted turfgrass cultivars for your area and then properly fertilize, mow, and water to encourage dense growth.”

It sounds like lawn renovation might be a good idea. If the parsley-piert has intense competition from a happily growing lawn, it will not thrive. Seattle Public Utilities has good resources on lawn care.

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Disposing of seeds in compost

When is a seed a seed? My wife and I are in agreement on not putting weeds with set seeds in the compost (and the “Easy Compost” book says just that). However, we are less sure about weed flowers (probably OK), and what about seed cases that haven’t formed seeds yet? I’m thinking in particular of foxgloves right now, as the flowers are coming to an end and leaving behind the undeveloped seed cases. I’m unsure whether to compost them or not. Just an aside: our compost pile doesn’t get superheated.

That is a very good question. I found an article in Fine Gardening magazine which discusses harvesting wildflower seeds. It is relevant because it suggests that some unripe seeds may continue to ripen even after being harvested from the plant before maturity. Whether unripe seed will eventually germinate may have to do with the permeability of the seed coat: the more permeable, the more likely the chance it will germinate.

The book Seeds by Peter Loewer (Macmillan, 1995) says that plants with tough seed coats (like legumes and morning glories) “are virtually impermeable to water and must be nicked by the gardener or soaked in warm water for twenty-four hours before they germinate. If these jackets are not broken, scratched, or eroded, water never enters and germination never begins.”

I have found several references to the immature seeds of invasive plants (Ailanthus, teasel, yellow flag iris, to name a few) being capable of germination. The Complete Compost Gardening Guide by Barbara Pleasant and Deborah Martin (Storey, 2008) “weeds that show up in your garden are fair game for compost, even if they are holding seeds. […] Weeds that have not yet begun to bloom and lack viable root buds that help them grow into new weeds can be added to any compost project, but it is important to keep weed seeds to a minimum every chance you get. […] In every climate there are plant criminals known as noxious weeds […] Unless you are confident and committed to processing the compost made from noxious weeds with a high-heat procedure, collect them in a black plastic garbage bag and subject them to various forms of torture before dumping them in an inhospitable place. Cook bags of them in the sun, add water and let them soak into slime, and keep track of what works and what doesn’t. If your superweeds survive your torture methods and you don’t have a spot in your landscape suited to use as a little landfill, discard them as garbage.”

If you want to be on the safe side, avoid putting anything seedy (even green and immature) in the compost, especially if the pile is not going to get especially hot and speed the decomposition process.

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managing crabgrass

I used to have a pristine green lawn and it has since been overtaken by crabgrass. I’ve tried organic and chemical weed-and-feed products to no avail. What can I do to get the weeds out?

Local plant expert Arthur Lee Jacobson has written about crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis) in his book, Wild Plants of Greater Seattle (2008): “Crabgrass is difficult to get rid of because it seeds itself at an almost unbelievable rate; mowing simply makes if flower nearer to the ground. Control demands diligent weekly hoeing and pulling by hand, from July through at least September. Even a few specimens left to reseed ensure more seedlings next summer.”

According to Ecologically Sound Lawn Care for the Pacific Northwest by David McDonald (Seattle Public Utilities, 1999), weed invasions are best prevented by making a habit of aerating and topdressing to correct soil compaction and build fertile soil. He recommends that you “overseed at summer’s end with locally adapted grasses to fill bare areas with grass rather than weeds. Correct acidity or poor drainage. Mow higher (2-2 1/2 inches, or 1 inch on bentgrass), fertilize moderately with slow-release or natural products, water deeply and infrequently in the summer. Tolerate some broadleaf plants like clover and daisies. Hand weed or spot-spray problem weeds in spring or fall to stop them before they spread.”

There is additional information on crabgrass from University of California, Davis Integrated Pest Management.

Seattle Public Utilities has information on best practices for maintaining a healthy lawn.

Toxic-Free Future (formerly known as Washington Toxics Coalition) also has a helpful lawn care fact sheet that might be helpful to you.

Since the weed-and-feed approach to the problem was not effective (and chemical weed and feed should be avoided), I recommend trying some of the cultural controls discussed above (mow higher, only fertilize at appropriate times and don’t use quick release fertilizer, water less often but more deeply, improve drainage by aerating, build soil by mulching). Solarization might be an option if the problem can’t be addressed by hand-weeding combined with the other methods described.

Weed Identification

Enter information about an unidentified weed, and compare it with photographs and text descriptions of weeds that share similar characteristics.

Weed Images and Descriptions

The Rutgers Cooperative Extension provides close-up photos and descriptions of many weeds found in New Jersey, but are also common throughout the U.S.