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Elisabeth C. Miller Library

Archives: Plant Answer Line Q & A

Plant Answer Line questions and answers.

Seeds and food stamp benefits

I receive a food stamp benefit, and I’ve been able to use it to buy food plants to grow in my garden, but I would like to be able to grow food from seed. Do you know if the benefit covers seeds for food crops?

Thanks for pointing out that food stamp benefits can be used for food plants! I consulted with legal experts at Seattle’s Solid Ground and found out that the benefit does include seeds. Here is the USDA Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program web-site where this is stated:

Excerpt:
“Households CAN use SNAP benefits to buy: Seeds and plants which produce food for the household to eat.”

According to the historical information on the website of SNAP Gardens, this benefit has existed since 1973, when the Food Stamp Act was amended to include “seeds and plants for use in gardens to produce food for the personal consumption of the eligible household.” You would still need to obtain the seeds from an existing vendor who accepts the food stamp benefit.

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Growing bamboo in Northeastern U.S.

I am considering planting some bamboo in a wet area near the neighbor’s yard. Right now, there are spruce planted in that area. I’m worried the bamboo will edge out the spruce, and I’m worried the bamboo might get into the neighbor’s yard. The species I’m considering is Phyllostachys atrovaginata, which is supposed to do fine in zone 5 (my zone in the Hudson Valley region of New York), and tolerate wet ground. What do you think?

The American Bamboo Society has a useful general article(now archived) on growing bamboo species in the Northeastern U.S. One thing the article says is that there are very few temperate (as opposed to tropical) bamboo species which will do well in wet conditions. Here is another article(now archived) about growing bamboo in Massachusetts, and another article(now archived) about controlling bamboo, which is essential if you plant a running bamboo–especially if it’s planted close to your neighbor’s property!

I do have an idea about how you can plant a running bamboo so that it will not invade your neighbor’s side of the property line, and so it will have improved drainage: what about planting it in a raised bed or container? I’ve seen this done, in a high and long raised bed along a property line, planted with running Phyllostachys.

The species you are interested in, Phyllostachys atrovaginata [also called incense bamboo], is described in an article in American Nurseryman, v.208, n. 7, 2008, as reaching 20-35 feet tall. It does tolerate (or require) moist conditions, as you say. It is hardy to zone 5b, and sustains no winter damage at -5 degrees F but culms will die back at -15 and regenerate new shoots in spring. It is a vigorous spreader, and needs “a width of at least 5 feet to provide a sustainably managed screen or specimen in a lawn. A rhizome access trench (1 foot wide by 1 foot deep, backfilled with sand) provides easy access to the rhizomes for routine inspection and extraction. Inspect three times throughout the growing season. Neglect causes unwanted spread, resulting in a garden thug.” It also prefers full sun, which might not be available in your garden if it is planted in the shade of the spruce trees.

To my reading, this sounds like a lot of work, when it might be easier to plant a hardy clumping bamboo in a container or raised bed–no worries about wet soil, or about invading the neighbor’s garden, and some even tolerate partial shade.

Here is another American Bamboo Society article(now archived) with suggestions for noninvasive clumping bamboo for the Northeast.

Excerpt:
“These plants do not tolerate full sun, but prefer to be understory plants, with overhead canopy above. Cooler, morning sun is acceptable, but hot, midday sun causes the curling of the leaves. Good woody companions are rhododendron, pine, hemlock, leucothoe. Good herbaceous companions are hosta, epimedium, vinca minor, hakonechloa, ceratostigma.”

  • Fargesia nitida – Fountain Bamboo, and its many cultivars nitida ‘de Belder’, ‘McClure’, ‘Nymphenburg’, ‘Wakehurst’: Hardy to minus 20 degrees F – Heights to 18 feet
  • Fargesia murielae – Umbrella Bamboo: Hardy to minus 20 degrees F – Height to 15 feet
  • Fargesia dracocephala: Hardy to minus 10 degrees F – Height to 15 feet
  • Fargesia robusta: Hardy to zero degrees F – Height to 20 feet
  • Fargesia rufa: Hardy to zero degrees F – Height to 10 feet

Invasiveness status of the Tree of Heaven

There seems to be a plant invasion in my Seattle neighborhood. I think what I’ve been seeing are larger specimens of Ailanthus altissima (Tree-of-Heaven) surrounded for many blocks by smaller seedlings of this same tree. It sprouts up through the middle of landscape plants and lawns, and right up against concrete foundations. I feel I should be warning people, but I’d like to know what the local status of this tree is, and I want to be sure I have identified it correctly. I already know it’s aggressive here, and I know it’s been designated invasive in other parts of the U.S. and the world.

You are correct that Ailanthus altissima has quite a track record for invasiveness. As you say, the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s National Invasive Species Information Center lists it. If you want to show people in your neighborhood some clear images of the tree in various stages, the Invasive Plants Atlas of the United States has good information.

If you aren’t completely certain what the plant is, you can bring samples to the Herbarium here at the Center for Urban Horticulture, or you can compare and contrast what you have observed with some close look-alikes:

Tree-of-Heaven is mentioned in a pamphlet on alternatives to invasives for Eastern Washington gardeners, but it has not yet achieved official invasive status. The Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board is considering a nomination to designate it as a Class B noxious weed (second highest priority) for the 2012 state weed list.

You could encourage your neighbors to eradicate it when possible. It spreads by seed (which can be dispersed by birds but especially by wind), and by root sprouts. It is a very fast grower, and it is important, when digging it up, to get every last bit of root, or you will soon find more of it sprouting. The California Invasive Plant Council has excellent, detailed information on its history, its growth and reproductive habits, and several methods of controlling its spread.

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Low maintenance Carex

I am designing a low maintenance landscape. I’m interested in using one of the Carex cultivars that have golden/variegated leaves (Carex dolichostachya ‘Kaga Nishiki’, Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’, Carex morrowi ‘Ice Dance’, or Carex hachijoensis ‘Evergold’). I would like to use a species that does not need to be cut down each year. Can you advise if any of these would look good all year without cutting back in the winter?

According to The Plant Care Manual by Stefan Buczacki (Crown, 1993), most sedges (such as Carex) require little maintenance. Even those with tall flower stems don’t need staking, and only need their dead flower stems removed in spring, or if damaged by rain or wind. In general, foliage may be trimmed lightly in spring as needed.

Rick Darke’s Encyclopedia of Grasses for Livable Landscapes (Timber, 2007) says that Carex dolichostaya ‘Kaga Nishiki’ will form “a symmetrical fountainlike mound, eventually to 2 feet in diameter. Long-lived and durable, suited for groundcover sweeps. Fully evergreen into Zone 6. Prefers fertile organic soils and light shade or full sun with adequate moisture. Fairly drought-tolerant in shade once established.”

Darke says that Carex hashijoensis is similar to Carex oshimensis but not as cold-hardy. The variegated cultivar you mention, ‘Evergold,’ is actually a cultivar of C. oshimensis, not C. hachijoensis, but there is confusion in the nursery trade.

Carex morrowi ‘Ice Dance’ is described as “strongly rhizomatous but not so fast as to be a nuisance. A superb, self-repairing groundcover.” There are other cultivars, such as C. morrowi ‘Gilt’ (leaf margins cream-white), ‘Gold Band’ (leaf margins cream-yellow), and ‘Variegata’ (a catch-all name for otherwise unnamed variegated selections).

You may find this of interest: Darke’s section on cutting back grasses and sedges states that “most grasses require little maintenance other than being cut back once yearly, and even this is done more for neatness than for the needs of the grass. […] Many evergreen grasses and sedges do not need to be cut back yearly and may grow attractively for a number of years with just minor grooming. Old growth or discolored foliage is often easily removed by gently combing plants by hand.”

Reviving Philadelphus

I just bought a house with a garden which has good bones, but has been untended for a long time. I believe the garden has 4 Philadelphus X virginalis ‘Minnesota Snowflake’ plants. They are deciduous in the winter, and they have greened up nicely in the summer. They are about 6 feet tall. On the 4 plants, this first summer, I’ve only seen 2 flowers. Can these shrubs be salvaged by using a blooming (high in phosphorus) fertilizer? Or do they need something else?

The three things I would ask about Philadelphus with few flowers:

  • Are they in full sun? (Sun is needed for best flowering results.)
  • Have they been pruned and, if so, when? (Pruning is best done in late summer, after flowering.)
  • Are they growing near a lawn or other area which receives fertilizer that is higher in Nitrogen (N) than Phosphorus (P) or Potassium (K)?

I would recommend that you test the soil before embarking on a plan of fertilization, unless you are adding a mulch such as compost, which releases its nutrients slowly. Philadelphus is usually considered a light feeder (i.e., it doesn’t require a lot of supplemental fertilizer).

As far as a future pruning regime for the shrubs, Jacqueline Heriteau’s Complete Trees, Shrubs & Hedges: Secrets for Selection and Care (2005) says that Philadelphus “blooms on the previous year’s growth. A light annual pruning of older branches right after flowering keeps mock orange shapely and productive. Branches more than five years old should be removed in winter or early spring.”

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Disposing of seeds in compost

When is a seed a seed? My wife and I are in agreement on not putting weeds with set seeds in the compost (and the “Easy Compost” book says just that). However, we are less sure about weed flowers (probably OK), and what about seed cases that haven’t formed seeds yet? I’m thinking in particular of foxgloves right now, as the flowers are coming to an end and leaving behind the undeveloped seed cases. I’m unsure whether to compost them or not. Just an aside: our compost pile doesn’t get superheated.

That is a very good question. I found an article in Fine Gardening magazine which discusses harvesting wildflower seeds. It is relevant because it suggests that some unripe seeds may continue to ripen even after being harvested from the plant before maturity. Whether unripe seed will eventually germinate may have to do with the permeability of the seed coat: the more permeable, the more likely the chance it will germinate.

The book Seeds by Peter Loewer (Macmillan, 1995) says that plants with tough seed coats (like legumes and morning glories) “are virtually impermeable to water and must be nicked by the gardener or soaked in warm water for twenty-four hours before they germinate. If these jackets are not broken, scratched, or eroded, water never enters and germination never begins.”

I have found several references to the immature seeds of invasive plants (Ailanthus, teasel, yellow flag iris, to name a few) being capable of germination. The Complete Compost Gardening Guide by Barbara Pleasant and Deborah Martin (Storey, 2008) “weeds that show up in your garden are fair game for compost, even if they are holding seeds. […] Weeds that have not yet begun to bloom and lack viable root buds that help them grow into new weeds can be added to any compost project, but it is important to keep weed seeds to a minimum every chance you get. […] In every climate there are plant criminals known as noxious weeds […] Unless you are confident and committed to processing the compost made from noxious weeds with a high-heat procedure, collect them in a black plastic garbage bag and subject them to various forms of torture before dumping them in an inhospitable place. Cook bags of them in the sun, add water and let them soak into slime, and keep track of what works and what doesn’t. If your superweeds survive your torture methods and you don’t have a spot in your landscape suited to use as a little landfill, discard them as garbage.”

If you want to be on the safe side, avoid putting anything seedy (even green and immature) in the compost, especially if the pile is not going to get especially hot and speed the decomposition process.

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Trees and turf roots

I have two mature cherry trees on my parking strip that are about 20 feet tall. Their roots protrude above the sidewalk level and are quite prominent. There used to be grass planted above them but it wasn’t well maintained and I took it out several years ago. After trying different plantings, I’d like to put sod back on the strip and wondered if it was best to cover the roots fully with soil and lay the sod on top of that, or if it would be okay to let the roots be partly exposed and lay the sod around them.

I am not sure that it would be wise to reinstall sod over your trees’ roots. You may want to mulch them lightly (no more than 2-3 inches, and keep away from the trunk), as described by a document formerly available from North Carolina State University Extension:
Excerpt:
“Exposed surface roots can become unsightly or in the way. Roots do not suddenly grow on the soil surface. Roots increase in diameter over a period of years. Soil erosion can speed their exposure. Exposed roots need protection from pedestrian and vehicle traffic including lawn mowers. Mulching exposed roots physically protects them as well as conserves soil moisture and prevents direct sunlight from heating the roots. Cutting off or covering roots with top soil are temporary solutions that can cause long term damage to tree roots.”

There is excellent, clear information in this link to the International Society of Arboriculture’s page on trees and turf. Ultimately, the best thing for your trees and your grass is to create a grass-free zone under the trees’ dripline, mulch that area, and restrict lawn grass to the area beyond the dripline. Here is an excerpt from the link:

“Trees, shrubs, ground covers, and lawn grasses all require sunlight, water, and rooting space for growth. Each plant in the landscape competes with neighboring plants regardless of type or species. Some even produce chemicals that are exuded from roots to restrict growth of nearby plants. For each plant to do well, it must have adequate space. Because perennial woody plants increase in size each year, they require additional space over time. The landscape design should provide adequate space for these plants to mature.

“While shade is the biggest, most obvious problem trees create for turf growth, a tree’s roots also contribute to poor turf performance. Contrary to general thinking, most tree roots are in the top 2 feet of soil. More important, the majority of fine, water absorbing roots are in the top 6 inches of soil. Grass roots ordinarily occupy a much greater percentage of the soil volume than tree roots and outcompete them for water and nutrients, especially around young trees. However, grass root density is often much lower in areas where trees were established first. In these situations, tree roots compete much better for water and nutrients and prevent or reduce the success of establishing new turf.

“Competition is especially important when transplanting, seeding, or sodding. The newest plant in the area must be given special treatment and must receive adequate water, nutrients, and sunlight, which frequently means that competing sod should be removed from around transplanted trees and shrubs or that some of the lower branches should be removed from existing trees above a newly sodded lawn. In any case, do not do any tilling around trees.

“Mulching is an alternative to turf around trees, and its use eliminates potential competition. A 2- to 4-inch layer of wood chips, bark, or other organic material over the soil under the drip line is recommended because it

  • helps retain soil moisture
  • helps reduce weeds and controls grass
  • increases soil fertility when mulch decomposes
  • improves appearance
  • protects the trunk from injuries caused by mowing equipment and trimmers that often result in serious tree damage or death
  • improves soil structure (better aeration, temperature, and moisture conditions)

 

“Maintenance practices for trees and turf are different. Because tree and grass roots exist together in the upper 6 to 8 inches of the topsoil, treatment of one may damage the other. Fertilizer applied to one plant will also be absorbed by the roots of a nearby plant. Normally that is good, but excessive fertilization of either trees or turf can result in tree crown or grass blade growth greater than desired.”

Identifying seeds at the cotyledon stage

I have some seedlings coming up in my compost. They smell a bit like basil, but they could just as easily be weeds. I’d like to know if there are resources for identifying plants at this early stage of growth.

You could wait a week or two and allow the seedlings to develop, which might make identification a little easier. However, there are various resources online for identifying plants, especially weeds, at the cotyledon (seed leaf) stage.

There are also print resources which illustrate plants at the seedling stage:

  • Seeds of Woody Plants in North America by James A. and Cheryl G. Young (Dioscorides Press, 1992)
  • Woody Plant Seed Manual prepared by the Forest Service, USDA (1948), also available online
  • Seeds: The Ultimate Guide to Growing Vegetables, Herbs & Flowers by Sam Bittman (Bantam Books, 1989)
  • Park’s Success with Seeds by Ann Reilly (Geo. W. Park Seed Co., 1978)
  • Park’s Success with Herbs by Gertrude Foster and Rosemary Louden (Geo. W. Park Seed Co., 1980)
  • Weeds of the West edited by Tom Whitson (Western Society of Weed Science, 2000)
  • Weeds of California and Other Western States by Joseph DiTomaso and Evelyn Healy (University of California, 2007)

Propagating Euphorbia trigona from cuttings

I have a Euphorbia trigona houseplant which is about 6 feet tall and quite thin. It has gotten weak and is bending. It looks like it is going to break. I have read it can be propagated by stem cuttings. I don’t know if this means cut the end off OR cut several sections of the stem. If I just cut off the end will the original stem survive?

According to Indoor Gardening by Kate Jerome (Pantheon Books, 1995), Euphorbia trigona often becomes top-heavy, which sounds like what is happening to yours. They do tolerate pruning well and may branch out from the place where you prune. Do be very cautious in handling this plant, and be sure to wear gloves: it has a toxic sap that can cause skin irritation. Generally when cuttings are taken, they are from the tips, where the new growth is occuring, but you can also try several cut pieces of stem. Ordinarily not every cutting is able to form roots, but according to The Complete Houseplant Book by Peter McHoy (Smithmark, 1995), you can increase your chances of success by letting the cut ends of the stem dry out in the air before putting them into potting soil.

Deadheading rhododendrons

Should you remove old blooms from rhododendrons and, if you should, which is best: to prune or snap them off?

Here is what the American Rhododendron Society says on the subject:

“It is desirable, with the large flowered rhododendrons, to remove the withered flower clusters after the blooming season. This is fairly easily done as the central axis of the cluster, usually called a truss, will break free from the plant with a quick snap of the thumb pushing on the side, or can be cut off with a hand pruner. With the smaller flowered rhododendrons and azaleas, dead-heading is labor intensive and and generally is not required.

Dead-heading is usually done to make the bush look more attractive, to reduce the prevalence of fungus and to prevent a heavy set of seed. If it is not possible to remove the old flowers, it is usually not too detrimental, but flowering the next year may be reduced.”

I have several mature rhododendrons in my own garden, and I deadhead the parts of the shrubs which are easily reachable, leaving the other areas to their own devices. For me, it’s an aesthetic choice, and I would probably do them all if I could reach and if I didn’t get very tired of the task. (It’s hard to do well with gloves since you can’t easily feel the right place to snap off the flower head, but it’s sticky work without the gloves.) I’ve never tried pruning them off, because it seems less precise (leaves a bit of a stub), but if rhododendron experts approve (as indicated above), I may just try it this year.