on transplanting madrone trees

We’ve lived in the Northwest for years and love madrone trees. Yesterday, we “rescued” two madrone trees from a construction site with the hope of transplanting them to our Seattle garden. After reading more information on madrone transplanting, I don’t think it’s an easy task. Do you have more information on this subject?

I’ve seen several references to madrone trees being difficult to transplant.
This one is from Wikipedia: “The trees are difficult to transplant and a seedling should be set in its permanent spot while still small. Transplant mortality becomes significant once a madrone is more than one foot (30 cm) tall.”

According to Native Plants in the Coastal Garden (April Pettinger, 2002),
“Arbutus seedlings do not like to be transplanted because they have a single,
long taproot.” However, she does suggest they are not difficult to grow from
seed by planting the whole berries in fall where you want the tree to be, and
pulling up any extra seedlings that arise. According to Propagation of Pacific
Northwest Native Plants (Robin Rose et al, 1998), the seedlings will grow only
a centimeter a year at first.

Even if the trees aren’t looking great, it might be worthwhile to plant them and
see if they come back from the roots, as they tend to have an underground burl
that can re-sprout after the original trunk dies.

You might also try contacting the King County Master Gardeners, whose phone clinic can be reached at 296-3440.

about Floribunda roses

I was wondering if you could send me information about Floribunda roses. I’m doing a research paper.

We have a large selection of books on roses here in the Elisabeth C.
Miller Library. You are welcome to come in and browse as well as borrow
books.

The Seattle Rose Society says the following about Floribunda roses:
Floribunda roses combine the best aspects of their parent plants: the
Hybrid Tea rose and Polyantha rose. They receive their flower form and
foliage from the Hybrid Tea while taking after the Polyantha in increased
hardiness and exuberance of blooms. This link is to their lists of recommended roses for the Puget Sound region, including the best Floribundas.

Here are additional links which may be useful.

Roses and everything rose & gardening related

American Rose Society

Most of our books have at least a little information on Floribundas, but
none is specifically and exclusively about them. I recommend The
Companion to Roses by John Fisher (Salem House, 1987) for history of rose
classification, and Jeff Cox’s Landscape with Roses (Taunton Press, 2002)
for practical ideas on using roses in the garden, and recommendations of
specific Floribundas which do well. Cox says that Floribundas are the
best of the Modern roses for most landscaping situations because of their
hardiness, free-flowering habit, bushy form, and flowering season. They
work well both as specimen plants and in combination with other flowers
and shrubs in beds and borders. Most grow 2-4 feet tall, and are dense
enough to be used as hedge plants. Varieties range from single,
semi-double, to double flowers. Some are fragrant. Specific varieties
mentioned by Cox are ‘Gruss an Aachen,’ ‘Iceberg,’ ‘Queen Elizabeth,’
‘Marmalade Skies,’ ‘Showbiz,’ ‘Betty Prior,’ ‘Escapade,’ ‘Nearly Wild,’
‘Lilac Charm,’ ‘Europeana,’ ‘Sunsprite,’ and ‘Apricot Nectar.’

treating powdery mildew on Nandina

Can you give me some suggestions on how to treat a Nandina infected with powdery mildew?

Apparently, powdery mildew on Nandina is becoming a common problem in our
area, as the article linked here indicates.

While this fungal disease is unsightly, it generally does not kill
affected plants. Sometimes improving air circulation around the plant (by
pruning congested growth) can help, and making sure to practice good
sanitation by picking up fallen leaves affected by the mildew is also
important.

There is an interesting idea in this Science News article on
using milk powder in water as a spray to control the disease.

Several organic gardening sources recommend a baking soda spray. The
Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control by
Barbara Ellis (Rodale Press, 1996) recommends dissolving 1 teaspoon of
baking soda in 1 quart of warm water. You can add up to a teaspoon of
dish soap to make the solution stick to the leaves more effectively.
Here is another source with slightly different recommendations, from the
National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service.

More from University of California, Davis. Excerpt:

Shade and moderate temperatures favor most powdery mildews. Locate plants
in sunny areas as much as possible, provide good air circulation, and
avoid excess fertilizer. A good alternative is to use slow-release
fertilizer. Overhead sprinkling may actually reduce the spread of powdery
mildew because it washes spores off the plant; also, if spores land in
water, they die. The best time to irrigate is in mid-morning so that the
plants dry rapidly, reducing the likelihood of infections by other fungi,
such as the ones that cause rust or black spot infections on roses. As
new shoots begin to develop on perennial plants, watch closely for the
appearance of powdery mildew.

on Marimo or lake ball

I saw some moss balls for sale in the gift shop of the new Nordic Museum. What type of moss is used? Is it native to Nordic countries? How do I care for one indoors?

The “moss” is actually a type of freshwater alga, Aegagropila linnaei, found in only a small number of northern hemisphere lakes. Other common names are lake ball or Cladophora ball. In Japan, they are called marimo (meaning a bouncy ball that is in water). The Ainu people of Hokkaido hold an annual Marimo Festival at Lake Akan to celebrate these charming lake goblins.

Iceland’s Lake Mývatn once had the world’s largest colony of lake balls but pollution has been altering the ecosystem there, and the mats of algae balls (colloquially called round sh*t or muck balls by the fishing community) began dying out. Their disappearance was first noted in 2013. There are some recent signs that the nutrient imbalance of the lake (caused by fertilizer runoff, and accumulation of bacteria) is correcting itself and that the ecosystem of the lake is bouncing back to better health.

To grow marimo inside, you will need a container that holds water, and a spot where the algae receive indirect sunlight. They prefer cool locations in nature, so they will do best if they do not get too hot (don’t put them near a heat source, and if it gets hot in your home, you can cool them off in water in the refrigerator). To keep the balls floating, squeeze out some of the water from time to time. To propagate the algae, use scissors to divide the marimo in half after squeezing out some of the water (you can repeat this process and cut into fourths or eighths). Use thread to wrap the cut algae back into a rounded shape, tie the thread close to the ball, and put back into the water. Some people combine them with other plants and tiny shrimp in indoor aquascapes.

pruning Portugal laurel hedges

I have a very large, mature Portugal laurel hedge. A tree service is coming out next week to see about pruning it. It is February and I heard that Anna’s hummingbirds are beginning to build nests in our area. I have a hummingbird feeder near the hedge. So, my first question, is now an OK time to have the hedge trimmed for the health of the plant? Second, am I risking disturbing nests at this time? In addition, if the neighbors cut back a significant amount of hedge on their side of the fence last year, am I safe to cut some of the height now, or do I need to allow more time for the shrub to recover?

According to the American Horticultural Society’s Pruning & Training (ed. Christopher Brickell, DK Publishing, 2011), the ideal time to prune Prunus lusitanica (Portugal laurel) is late spring or early summer. However, it can produce new growth easily from old wood, so if a plant or a hedge requires renovation, it shouldn’t pose a problem. It’s always best to avoid pruning on very hot days. The Royal Horticultural Society website has general guidelines for hedge pruning:

“Evergreen hedges
Formative pruning: In the spring after planting and for the first two years after planting
Maintenance pruning: Each summer”

If you are concerned about disturbing the Anna’s hummingbirds, it makes sense in any case to wait until late spring or early summer. See this information on Anna’s hummingbirds from Washington NatureMapping Program:

“Nesting: As is the case with other hummingbird species, male and female Anna’s Hummingbirds associate only long enough to mate. The female is responsible for construction of the nest and care of the young. The breeding season begins in December and usually lasts until May or June. Females will lay a clutch of only two white eggs and will produce only one brood per season. The hummingbird eggs are roughly the size and shape of a small jellybean. The hatchlings will remain in the nest for three weeks.”

Portugal laurel is generally considered pretty tough, but if you are concerned about pruning too much at one time, you might want to wait until it is in the height of active growth. To sum up, it seems best for both the hummingbirds and the hedge to wait a while.

on sourcing oak logs

I am looking for advice on how to obtain an oak log or two. I got some shiitake mushroom starter plugs at the garden show in Seattle, and it seems that they grow best on oak logs. But I am having the hardest time trying to find one or two oak logs to plant them in. I’ve tried craigslist, and can’t seem to find a thing. My tree identification skills are not exactly up to par, and I don’t know the rules for cutting parts of trees in the forest, so I wonder if you have any advice for a novice mushroom grower. I really only need two logs, about 6 inches in diameter and maybe 3-4 feet long. This is proving to be a much more daunting task than I ever imagined!

Have you tried contacting Plant Amnesty? They maintain a list of certified arborists, some of whom will probably have occasion to prune or cut down an oak tree at some point. That might be one way of obtaining a log.

You might also try posting on the Pacific Northwest Garden Exchange (watch out–annoying ads!).

As far as cutting branches on public forest land, you should contact the Washington Department of Natural Resources before proceeding. They have information on harvesting and collecting forest products, and how to obtain a firewood permit.

Once oak trees have leafed out fully, they should be easier to identify. See the following tree identification guides:

Vanderbilt University
Ohio Public Library Information Network’s “What Tree Is it?”
Arbor Day Foundation

removing fairy rings in lawns

I’ve researched “fairy ring in the grass” online, but haven’t come up with any surefire solutions. Ours is about 3 feet across, with scant grass in the center. Digging it out and replacing grass or hiring a professional to apply toxic fumigants seemed logical. Any other suggestions to try?

I think physical removal is certainly a better option than applying toxic fumigants, though it requires some work. Washington State University Extension offers these recommendations for fairy ring in lawns:

Several species of fungi can cause fairy rings in lawns. The common symptoms may include a ring of dead grass with darker green grass and mushrooms on the inside and/or the outside of the ring, circular patches of darker green grass, or rings of mushrooms or puffballs appearing with or without other symptoms. Mushroom rings most commonly appear in the spring or fall when adequate moisture is present. The type of fairy ring which causes dead rings is the most damaging. The fungus feeds on decomposing organic matter such as dead tree roots and undecomposed bark mulch in the soil and makes water penetration difficult. Fairy rings are more severe on sandy soil with low fertility. Grass inside the rings may be weakened or killed and replaced with weeds and weedy grasses. Fairy rings may disappear suddenly.

Select Non-chemical Management Options as Your First Choice!!

After rewetting, reseed affected areas and fertilize and water properly.
Provide proper culture, including deep, infrequent waterings and adequate fertilization.
Rake and loosen soil in affected areas. Aerate soil and water the area deeply. A grass-type wetting agent can be used to help rewet the soil.
Remove the sod, mix soil in affected areas in the upper 6 to 8 inches of soil with a rototiller, and reseed or put new sod in the area.

Pesticides: None recommended (Revision Date:4/20/2010)

In his book, The Chemical-Free Lawn (Rodale Press, 1989), Warren Schultz says of fairy rings:
“The only sure way to eradicate the mushroom is to dig out the turf and soil to a depth of 2 feet, extending outward at least 1 foot beyond the edge of the circle. It’s also possible to slow the fungus by drenching the soil with water to a depth of 2 feet. Some turf experts recommend fertilizing the rest of the lawn heavily to mask the green color of the ring. This practice, however, may encourage other diseases [my note: heavy fertilization contributes to toxic stormwater runoff]. You may be best off learning to live with the disease.”

This information from Oregon State University (no longer available online) provides advice on removing fairy rings from lawns:

Soak Fairy Ring area daily for a month with water. Punching a number of holes in the area to be soaked will help get the water into the soil. The Fairy Ring area is often dry, hard and difficult to get water into the soil. A thorough aeration in April with a rented machine will make the job easier.
Adequate fertilizer will mask the green ring by supplying the entire lawn with extra nitrogen.
Renovation of affected area can be accomplished by removing the affected sod and soil. Cut the area 12 inches wider than the outside of the ring. Cut the sod and soil 1-2 inches deep. Remove affected material. Replace with ‘clean’ soil and replant.

controlling moss growth in garden beds

I have a small rooftop plant bed that’s full of moss. Is that an indication of sour soil, and if so, can it be sweetened with Dolomite lime?

Moss is often simply an indication of a shady site or compacted soil, but can also be an indicator of low soil pH (i.e., acid soil). I wouldn’t recommend adding lime without doing a soil test for pH (you can buy an inexpensive kit at most garden centers), and without considering the pH needs of the plants you have in the bed. You would not want to increase the alkalinity of the soil if your plants are acid-loving.

You may find this link about moss growing in garden beds (from Oregon State University) of interest. Here is an excerpt:

“Mosses grow in garden areas for the same reasons they grow in lawns: for example, deep shade, high acidity, poor drainage, and soil compaction. As in the lawn, mosses do not compete with other plants. Rather, they establish in bare areas where conditions are favorable (Cook and Whisler, 1994).

Mosses have not been shown to hinder the growth of garden plants or trees. Reasons for removal are generally aesthetic. But aesthetics are in the eye of the beholder, and mosses are commonly viewed as positive features in landscaping. For example, traditional oriental gardening holds distinctive roles for mosses (Japanese Garden Society of Oregon 1996; see also Encouraging Mosses). Furthermore, in some situations mosses may help reduce moisture loss and crusting on soil surfaces.”

parking strip vegetable gardening

I want to plant my parking strip for a vegetable garden. Do I need a permit from the city? And if so where do I get a permit?

You do not need a Street Use permit for gardening activities in the planting strip.
Here are the City of Seattle’s current guidelines for parking strip gardening.

Linden Mead, a Seattle Department of Transportation arborist, addresses one of the concerns I would have about planting edible crops next to a street:

“Although the list may not be exhaustive, and gardeners are encouraged
to be creative, they do need to follow some parameters. Plants grown
within the area equal to or less than 30 feet from an intersection
may not exceed 24″ (2 feet) in height at maturity. This is so that
visibility is adequately maintained (cars and pedestrians visible
to each other). When a planting strip is 5 feet wide or less, plants
may not exceed 36” (3 feet) in height at maturity. This is to help
assure pedestrian safety/visibility as well as to maintain pedestrian
walkways and the roadway clear of overgrowth which may impede travel
on the right-of-way. With wider strips, it is possible to put in scattered,
taller plants, if planted in the middle of the strip.

“There are also regulations about ‘hardscape’ – which may include
planting beds in the strip. Raised beds may be constructed from
timber but rocks or bricks that are easily moved (read here ‘picked
up and thrown’) are not allowed. Permits are also required to plant, prune or remove trees.”

Seattle Department of Transportation has specific information about growing food in the planting or parking strip. There are some concerns as well as a few restrictions, described here:
“SDOT prohibits fruit trees because of the slipping hazard for pedestrians from fallen fruit. For some residents, it’s their only sunny area to grow vegetables. But the planting strip is a public space, part of the public right-of-way, so it’s hard to control what pets or people do there. It can be harder to reach with water, and there may be concerns with the soil.” It is also a good idea to test the soil for contaminants before planting edible crops.

planting bamboo near a property line

Are there any restrictions to planting bamboo near a property
line? We are planting it at least 1 1/2 feet from the property line and
will be using the appropriate barrier (if planting the runner variety) or
clumping bamboo. Basically we want to regain some privacy for our yard
and house but not encroach upon the neighboring property.

Although I cannot speak to whether there are legal restrictions about
planting bamboo (this would be a question for King County Law Library), my hunch is
that as long as you take the necessary precautions to control the spread
of the plant by installing a root or rhizome barrier, it should not pose
a problem. If you intentionally planted an uncontrolled invasive plant at
the property line, it might be possible for someone to contend that it
was malicious, as mentioned below (Revised Code of Washington):

RCW 7.40.030

Malicious erection of structure may be enjoined.

An injunction may be granted to restrain the malicious erection, by any
owner or lessee of land, of any structure intended to spite, injure or
annoy an adjoining proprietor. And where any owner or lessee of land has
maliciously erected such a structure with such intent, a mandatory
injunction will lie to compel its abatement and removal.

The American Bamboo Society has helpful information (now archive) on how to control
bamboo. Here is an excerpt describing barriers:

To prevent a running bamboo from spreading, a rhizome barrier is
essential. A barrier two or three feet deep is effective. It should be
slanted outward at the top so that when the rhizomes hit the barrier they
will bend upwards. A barrier does not stop a running rhizome; it only
deflects it. The barrier should project an inch or two above ground
level. Check the barrier once a year, and cut off rhizomes that arch over
the top.

Barriers can be concrete, or metal, or plastic. The usual recommendation
is high-density polypropylene, 40 mil or heavier, glued or taped at
junctions, or clamped with stainless-steel clamps. This material comes in
rolls, or as hinged sections, and is available from some landscape
suppliers and bamboo nurseries, frequently termed root barrier. More
elaborate barriers with corner posts that hold the material at the proper
angle are also available.

One other option is to plant your bamboo in pots. Even then, you would
need to check the bottoms of the pots periodically for escaping roots.
You can also purchase lengths of bamboo fencing or willow fencing, if you
do not wish to install a heavier fence. Here is an example of willow fencing, and here is a local company, Bamboo Builders Northwest, which has examples of bamboo fencing.