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Water chestnuts and edible tubers

What is the botanical name for water chestnut? Will it grow here? Are there other water plants that have edible tubers which will thrive in the Pacific Northwest? What about edible lotus root, from Chinese lotus?

 

Chinese or Sacred lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) is hardy in zones 4-10 and is considered invasive in some parts of parts of the midwestern and southeastern U.S. This article in The Guardian by Mark Griffiths, author of The Lotus Quest, suggests growing it in a container in a conservatory or on a sunny deck. However, you may not want to harvest tubers from a lotus grown in a relatively small container, as the plant needs to be large enough to have a substantial system of linear growth in order to sacrifice some of its tubers for human consumption. According to the Colorado Water Garden Society, “Lotus grow in a linear fashion, with a sequence of a tuber producing a leaf and perhaps a flower, then beginning another tuber to repeat the cycle . . . Tuber, leaf, flower, tuber, leaf, flower, etc. Each terminal point produces a single leaf and flower and then sends out the next, new growth. Beneath the soil, lotus growth takes on one of two forms: runners and tubers. The Summer “runner” growth is thin and long (to 24″+).”

American yellow lotus (Nelumbo lutea) also has edible tubers, but it can be an aggressive grower. If you are seeking out plants, be aware that there is sometimes identity confusion among Nelumbo, Nymphaea, Nymphoides, and Nuphar. In King County, there are two common invasive water lilies that are sometimes mistaken for lotuses, Nymphaea odorata and Nymphoides peltata. While some of these water lilies have tubers that have been considered edible in times of famine, they are not a desirable food source.

The common name ‘water chestnut’ may refer to the edible corms of the Chinese water chestnut familiar from Asian cuisine (Eleocharis dulcis), which is in the sedge family (Cyperaceae), or to European water chestnut (Trapa natans), which is in the loosestrife family (Lythraceae). Eleocharis is not winter-hardy in our area (it requires zones 9-11). Trapa natans is a noxious weed in Oregon and is on the Washington State Noxious Weed quarantine list, so it is not a good choice if you are planning to grow your own aquatic plants. Green Deane’s Eat the Weeds webpage describes the differences between these plants.

One commonly grown native plant with edible tubers is Sagittaria latifolia (common arrowhead, wapato, duck potato). It is an attractive ornamental in a water garden. According to Missouri Botanical Garden, the starchy golf-ball sized tubers that develop at the ends of the rhizomes (underground runners) “are edible, and may be boiled or baked and eaten as a potato-like food. Native Americans harvested and consumed these tubers, which in some areas were known as wapato. The tubers are also an important food source for waterfowl, hence the name duck potato.” According to Eat the Weeds, only Sagittaria latifolia is of edible interest to humans because the size of the tubers or corms is more significant than in other species. Generally, the larger the leaf size, the larger the edible tuber. In any case, avoid planting the two species of Sagittaria on the Washington State Noxious Weed list: S. platyphylla (quarantine list) and S. graminea (class B).

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aquatic plants and water gardening

I am looking for information about planting floating emergent plants (e.g., water shield, yellow pond lily) in natural ponds. If planting young plant material in the soil, what is the recommended water depth? Is it okay to submerge the entire shoot? If yes, what is a safe depth from top of shoot to water surface?

 

There are several different types of plants that are grown in ponds. A great resource on planting floating plants is The Water Gardener’s Bible: A step-by-step guide to building, planting, stocking, and maintaining a backyard water garden by Ben Helm and Kelly Billing (Rodale Inc., 2008). In the book they explain that floating plants will either float on the pond surface or be slightly submerged. The most popular floating plants are Frog’s bit (Hydrocharis morsus-ranae), Water hyacinth (Eichornia crassipes), Water chestnut (Trapa natans), and Water soldier (Pistia stratiotes). They also explain submerged plants that will inhabit a pond at all levels, from those whose roots sit on the bottom to those that emerge from the pond, getting only their feet wet. For planting a water lily, place on a stack of bricks in the position where the lily will be sited, so that the top of the planted basket is no more than 1 inch (3 cm) below the surface. As the leaves start to extend, remove the bricks until the basket is on the pond bottom.

Another great book is Plants for Water Gardens: The Complete Guide to Aquatic Plants by Helen Nash and Steve Stroupe (Sterling, 1998). The book contains a huge list of a variety of lily plants and specifications for planting and survival.

Texas A & M Extension has a website on water gardening with useful information on planting aquatic plants. You may want to check your local list of invasive species before planting.

Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants

“The UF/IFAS Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants is a multidisciplinary research, teaching and extension unit directed to develop environmentally sound techniques for the management of aquatic and natural area weed species and to coordinate aquatic plant research activities within the State of Florida.”