Baptisia from seed

I saved seedpods from my Baptisia this fall, and wonder about the best way to grow this plant from seed—when to sow, etc.

According to The Gardener’s A-Z Guide to Growing Flowers from Seed to Bloom (Eileen Powell, Storey Publishing, 2004), you can sow directly outdoors in late autumn or early spring at a depth of ¼ inch.

You can also start seed indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost. Germination time varies from 5 to 36 days. Powell recommends soaking the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, and then chipping them with a knife. Keep at 70-75 degrees F once sown. Transplant after the last spring frost, or in early autumn. Baptisia likes full sun to light shade, and well-drained soil. Plants grown from seed may take a couple of years to settle into the garden.

Miriam Goldberger, author of Taming Wildflowers (2014) and proprietor of Wildflower Farm, has additional advice, including an alternate outdoor method of putting sown seeds in potting medium out in late fall to winter to allow natural cold stratification (this applies only if your winters are cold enough!). “The seed will germinate in the pots in spring as the weather warms up. Be sure to water the pots regularly in spring and once the plants are 5 cm (2 inches) tall, transplant them into your garden.”

Baptisia, Propagation, Seeds

Plants on the Move

With its stylized but clearly recognizable illustrations, Plants on the Move introduces readers of all ages to the various ways plants travel and multiply. It is divided into sections by type of movement: plants that creep or explode of their own accord, and those that move with the aid of wind, water, or the help of mammals, birds, and ants, including those that carry, drop, or ingest their fruits and leave the seeds behind. Humans also help distribute plants, both inadvertently and intentionally.

Especially entertaining are the cutaway diagrams of the digestive tracts of a blackbird and a mouse, mapping the journey of a berry from one end to the other. The charming illustrations do an excellent job of representing traits of some plants that are prolific spreaders if not downright invasive: note the bursting seedy artillery of impatiens and violets (which also have reaching stolons), the hooked fruits of burdock, the creeping tendencies of buttercup, and the tunneling habits of lily of the valley.

The section on cultivated plants explains the role of anthropochory (plant movement generated by human intervention), and lists many plants that now exist worldwide because we saved seeds, transported, and planted them. There is a short list of other scientific terms (all ending in –chory) which are so effectively illustrated throughout the book.

Remembering Ledebouria

I keep forgetting the name of a plant I added to the garden some time ago, and every year I have to dig through my pile of old plant tags to remind myself. Any mnemonic devices to help me hold Ledebouria cooperi in my head? Any tips on keeping it growing well? How can I propagate it?

There are some common names that might guide you to the scientific name: Cooper’s false squill (it used to be named Scilla cooperi), Cooper’s African hyacinth, and Zebra’s quill (which evokes those delicately veined or striped leaves).

The genus is named for German botanist Carl Friedrich van Ledebour (1785-1851). The species name was given by Joseph Dalton Hooker to honor English botanist Thomas Cooper (1815-1913), who collected plants in South Africa’s Drakensberg mountains in the mid-nineteenth century.

The Pacific Bulb Society says this bulbous plant of damp eastern South African grasslands will grow well with its bulbs exposed or unexposed. It would thrive in a rock garden, growing in a wall niche, a container, or at the front of a border. According to Missouri Botanical Garden, it prefers well-drained but moist soil during active growth (but dislikes winter saturation which can rot the plant). It can be propagated by division, which is easiest to do when it is visible, not when it is dormant.

Botanical nomenclature, Bulbs, Ledebouria cooperi, Propagation

Propagating Cyclamen

I have a Cyclamen that blooms in the fall, so I think it would be
C. hederifolium. Right now there is a clump of 1/2 in. diameter
“seeds” attached to curly spirals. I’m wondering if I can harvest those seeds and give them to others. In the book I’m reading, they say it is propagated by corms, which I assume I
would find if I dug them up. What should be done at “cleanup time,” which seems to be about
now, as there are only a few dried up leaves left, and all those
“curls and pods.” I’ve had it several years and have done nothing to it. It
blooms beautifully in the fall each year with deep pink flowers. I
do see tiny starts at various places in the yard, so some seeds
have moved around.

Propagation by seed is the most commonly recommended method according to the following resources:
American Horticultural Society Plant Propagation: The Fully Illustrated
Plant by Plant Manual of Practical Techniques by Alan Toogood, The Royal
Horticultural Society A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants by Christopher
Brickell, The Complete Book of Plant Propagation by Jim Arbury, Richard
Bird, Mike Honour, Clive Innes and Mike Salmon, The Plant Care Manual by
Stefan Buczacki and Cyclamen; A Guide for Gardeners, Horticulturists and
Botanists by Christopher Grey-Wilson. Apparently propagation from corms
is technical and difficult. However, if you choose to give it a try, the
title Cyclamen, mentioned above, does go into some detail about the
process.

You can thank the ants for the tiny starts you are finding in your yard,
they eat the “sweet and sticky mucilage” that covers the seed, they
then leave the seed alone where it lies, ready to germinate on its
own afterward. Here is an article by Rebecca Alexander from the Spring 2017 Washington Park Arboretum on . (Cyclamen) As for the clump of seeds you are finding on
your plant, their dark brown color indicates they are ripe and ready for
sowing. They require dark, cool temperatures for germination (43-54 F)
for C. hederifolium. It is recommended that the seeds soak for a minimum
of 10 hours (a small amount of gentle detergent can be added) and rinsed
thoroughly. They can be sown at the end of summer and produce flowers in
about 14 months. (The Royal Horticultural Society A-Z Encyclopedia of
Garden Plants and American Horticultural Society Plant Propagation).

Unfortunately I couldn’t find much information for your question
regarding clean up. However, I would suggest that it would be perfectly
acceptable to remove the dead leaves and seed pods, including the curly
spirals that are attached to them. You can choose to sow the seeds
or give them away to friends. As long as you don’t disturb the exposed
curled tubers that may be present at or near the surface of the soil, I
think you’ll plant will be fine. You may also want to consider adding
additional plants that show their true colors in the summer when your
Cyclamen is dormant. This would mask the appearance of your Cyclamen and
perhaps dissolve any need for clean up.

Cyclamen, Propagation

Propagating Primulas

I have some Primulas I would like to propagate, specifically Primula elatior and Primula veris. What is the best method, and when is the best time?

The timing will depend on the propagation method you choose. The American Horticultural Society’s Plant Propagation (edited by Alan Toogood; DK Publishing, 1999)says that division is done in early spring or after flowering; however, this method is not recommended for any species except Primula vulgaris and Polyanthus primroses. Although division is a healthy practice for some species, it can weaken others.

You can raise your primroses from seed, which has the benefit of being a virus-free propagation method. This is done in either mid-spring or in late summer to fall(the later time period is rated as easier than the earlier). However, Primula elatior, Primula veris, Primula vulgaris, and candelabra-type primroses may hybridize if you do not isolate them. Depending on your outlook, this could be a problem or an opportunity. The seeds are best sown when fresh, in a well-drained, moist soil mix rich in organic content.

There is some propagation information in this Alaska Master Gardeners article by Mary Jo Burns, entitled Growing Primula in South-Central Alaska. You may want to see if your area has a chapter of the American Primrose Society. Members of the Society have access to informative articles about all aspects of primrose cultivation.

Primula, Propagation

Native Plants Journal

Peer reviewed research.

Propagating weeping willows from cuttings

I know you can plant willows from cuttings, but what about weeping willow trees? Can they be grown from a cutting (by an amateur)? If so, how?

Following is a suggestion from American Horticultural Society Plant Propagation, ed. by A. Toogood, 1999, p. 89.

“The most reliable method for propagating weeping willow (Salix babylonica) is by cuttings. Hardwood cuttings of vigorous willows may be as long as 6 feet and planted out immediately to mature faster than standard 8 inch cuttings. Take cuttings in late autumn from new, fully hardened wood that does not need to be very woody. Line them out in open ground, pot them, or place them in bundles in a frost-free sandbed to root. Select those in active growth in spring to pot. Cuttings may also be taken of green or semi-ripe wood. “

Here is additional information (no longer available online) from a British nursery called JPR Environmental:

“The best way to propagate weeping willows is first to find a mature tree that you like the look of and then go and ask the owner if you could take a small branch from it in the winter (most are happy to oblige and will tell you about their tree in great detail!).

“Once a source has been identified then look to prepare the ground. Make sure that the site is not near the house and not near any old water pipes etc. – it would be a shame to have to cut it down just when it is getting a good size. A site near water is good, willows like moist soil but do not do well in soil that is waterlogged for long periods. Dig a square pit say 18 inches wide and deep. Break up the soil and add some compost if the soil structure needs it.

“Now is the time to take a cutting. The best time of year is whenever the leaves are off the tree with the optimum being February to early March – so long as there is not a hard frost on the ground. The branch should be between 1 and 2 inches at the base and not more than 6 feet tall. Plant it in the hole that you have made, firming up the soil so that you cannot pull the branch out. If you are in a windy site it may be worth staking the tree and a rabbit guard will protect it from grazing in the first year or so.”

Propagation, Salix, Woody plant cuttings

Transplanting Yuccas

I have a number of large Yucca plants in my yard that I would like to dig up and transplant. I am not entirely familiar with this type of plant, but have noticed that, likely due to the age of these plants, several trunks have sprouted from the mother plant and have begun growing as what appear to be separate plants. However, these extensions are easily lifted from the ground and show no evidence of independent root development. Can I cut the new plants from the original plant and get these to take root elsewhere?

Following is some information that may help you in transplanting your Yuccas.

TRANSPLANTING

From Agaves, Yuccas and Related Plants: A Gardener’s Guide by Mary & Gary Irish (2000, pages 65-68):
“In mild winter climates that have hot summers, particularly hot and dry summers, fall planting is best, so that root systems establish through the mild winter before the onset of the stressful summer season. If planted in early spring, plants must be carefully watered and shaded from the sun during the summer to prevent sunburn and debilitating heat stress. When planting agaves [or yuccas], regardless of the soil type, raise the center of the hole slightly, just an inch or so, and plant the center of the plant at the top. The crown of the agave [or yucca] particularly is susceptible to infections, and when the soil inevitably subsides after planting, the crown can sink below the soil line. The practice of raising the center of the planting hole slightly is helpful in all the stemless members of both families to prevent crown rots.

“For all plants, begin by digging a shallow hole no more than the depth of the root system. Backfill the planting hole without soil amendments or with a very small amount of compost. Tamp the soil lightly as it is backfilled to prevent excessive settling later…

“Moving mature arborescent plants, such as some members of Beaucarnea, Furcraea, Nolina or Yucca, is more difficult. These large plants are sensitive to root and stem disturbance, and wounds of the basal growing platform in Yucca can introduce a host of infectious agents into the plant. If possible, it is much more advisable to move such plants when they are young and nearly stemless.”

PLANTING TOES AND SUCKERS

From American Horticultural Society Plant Propagation by Alan Toogood (1999, p. 145)

“In spring, carefully uncover the base of a sucker. Cut it off at the base where it joins the parent rhizome. Dust the wounds with fungicide. Pot the sucker singly in a free-draining medium, such as equal parts soilless potting mix and fine grit. Keep at 70 degrees F until rooted (12 weeks).”

Propagation, Rooting, Transplanting, Yucca

Blooming bamboo

I have a bamboo, Fargesia nitida, ‘Blue Fountain Bamboo,’ that seems to be blooming this year. Are other specimens of this species blooming in Seattle this year? (I heard a rumor that blooming is synchronized among bamboo plants.) Will it die? Will it produce seeds without a “partner”? I am curious since blooming bamboo isn’t something you see every year in Seattle.

My best suggestion is to look at specialist nurseries in your area, or contact your local Parks Department to see if there are any public gardens where you can view other specimens of Fargesia.

As far as the question of whether your plant will die after flowering, here is an article abstract about this subject (which does suggest that the plant will die, but also indicates that this is a time of opportunity to propagate the bamboo).

I also found some general information about propagating bamboo from this archived page from American Bamboo Society:

Q. How do I propagate bamboo?

Bamboo is usually propagated by digging up part of a clump of existing bamboo and moving it elsewhere. The vast majority of propagating is done that way and it results in most plants of most varieties in the U.S. being clones. If you divide a bamboo plant and put it in a new location, it usually doesn’t do much for the first few growing seasons. The first two years it puts out roots in its new location and usually by the third year it starts putting out larger culms. By the fourth or fifth years it’s putting out culms as large as that plant ever will in that location, with that much sun and that much water in that kind of soil.

Bamboo flowers only rarely, (sometimes there’s more than a person’s lifetime between flowerings) and when it does, it takes so much energy from the plant it often dies. People try various things to save them, like cutting back the culms and fertilizing generously, and sometimes that works.

It can also be propagated via germ plasm. A small number of cells are taken from some part of the plant and grown in glass dishes. Ordinary people don’t do this, of course.
Finally, with some tropical species, it’s possible to bend a culm in an existing clump of bamboo down to the ground, stake it and cover it partially with soil. Be sure to cover several of the nodes of the culm, as that’s where it will form roots. Don’t let the soil dry out completely.

According the Plants for a Future database, Fargesia nitida flowers are hermaphroditic, and are pollinated by wind.

I found some anecdotal information about propagating Fargesia nitida from seed on the University of British Columbia’s garden forum, shown below:
You can harvest the seed individually by hand. But it seems the best way to know that it is ripe is to allow it to fall to the ground, as they only fall when they are ripe. In order to not leave things to chance, it is recommended that a piece of cloth or a tarpaulin be placed on the ground, and the seed bearing culm be shaken. The best germination rate is when the seeds are sown fresh.

Bamboo, Fargesia, Propagation

Strawberry cross-pollination and varieties to plant in Seattle

I have organic Rainier strawberries in a raised bed. I’d like to plant organic everbearing strawberries in the same bed. Is there a problem with cross-pollination? What would be your recommendation for the best strawberry varieties to plant in Seattle?

Strawberries can reproduce by runners or by seed. Those which are reproduced by runners will be clones of the parent plant, but those which grow from seed may cross-pollinate.

Here is more information from the Royal Horticultural Society.

Excerpt:
“Strawberries can be propagated in late summer, but no later than early autumn, by sinking 9cm (3.5in) pots filled with potting media, such as general-purpose potting compost, into the beds and inserting individual runners into them. Sever the new young plants from the parent plant when rooted. Perpetual strawberries produce few runners and new plants are best bought in annually.
“Seed-raised cultivars are available but are not recommended*, except for alpine strawberries.”
*I suspect this is because you can’t know what the resulting new generation of strawberries will be like–tasty or not so tasty.

So I think as long as you harvest your fruit, and don’t let fruit ripen and drop into the bed, you can allow runners to produce new plants and they should be the same varieties as their parents. That being said, it’s usually good to replace strawberry plants after a few years, just to keep disease problems down (the RHS link above says to replace every 3 years or so).

I’ve had good luck with Shuksan (June-bearing), and I think I may have grown Tristar (ever-bearing) before, too. Oregon State University Extension has a guide entitled “Strawberry Cultivars for Western Oregon
and Washington” which recommends these varieties and several others..

There are many more varieties listed in the Sunset Western Garden Book of Edibles (2010). If you are looking for sources, you might try your favorite local nurseries, but also mail order nurseries like Raintree, Cloud Mountain Farm, and Burnt Ridge. The Northwest Flower and Garden Show in February often has vendors selling strawberry plants.

Cross-pollination, Fragaria, Propagation