moving Eremurus

For a couple of years, someone has been eating the flowering stalk of one of our foxtail lilies. I thought these bulbs were resistant to critters because of their bitter taste, and I can only speculate that it’s an intrepid squirrel climbing the rose that overhangs the stalk, and nibbling the developing flower like corn-on-the-cob. I’d like to save it from being eaten every spring. Can the plant be moved, and when would be the best time to do it?

You are correct that Eremurus is generally considered unappetizing to deer, rabbits, and other creatures. If you have acrobatic squirrels, then placing the foxtail lily in a more open spot (with nothing overhanging it) that also has excellent drainage and ample sun might help. However, these bulbs are sensitive to transplanting and their shallow but widely spreading roots are fragile. It is best to wait until the leaves have died back and the plant is entering dormancy (late summer to early fall). Have a new planting hole ready to accommodate the roots, which are octopus- or starfish-shaped. According to Chicago Botanic Garden, the hole should be about 15 inches wide and six inches deep with a shallow mound in the middle over which you can drape the roots.

Bulbs, Eremurus, Squirrels, Transplanting

Remembering Ledebouria

I keep forgetting the name of a plant I added to the garden some time ago, and every year I have to dig through my pile of old plant tags to remind myself. Any mnemonic devices to help me hold Ledebouria cooperi in my head? Any tips on keeping it growing well? How can I propagate it?

There are some common names that might guide you to the scientific name: Cooper’s false squill (it used to be named Scilla cooperi), Cooper’s African hyacinth, and Zebra’s quill (which evokes those delicately veined or striped leaves).

The genus is named for German botanist Carl Friedrich van Ledebour (1785-1851). The species name was given by Joseph Dalton Hooker to honor English botanist Thomas Cooper (1815-1913), who collected plants in South Africa’s Drakensberg mountains in the mid-nineteenth century.

The Pacific Bulb Society says this bulbous plant of damp eastern South African grasslands will grow well with its bulbs exposed or unexposed. It would thrive in a rock garden, growing in a wall niche, a container, or at the front of a border. According to Missouri Botanical Garden, it prefers well-drained but moist soil during active growth (but dislikes winter saturation which can rot the plant). It can be propagated by division, which is easiest to do when it is visible, not when it is dormant.

Botanical nomenclature, Bulbs, Ledebouria cooperi, Propagation

Deadheading lilies

How do you remove the dead flowers from a Asiatic lily? Do you go to the main stem and cut it there or do you just remove the flower and leave the pod?

Here is what South Dakota State University advises:

“Once all the flowers have dropped their flower petals, it is a good idea to deadhead the stem, by cutting of the flower spike at the base, just above the stem leaves. Keep in mind that the leaves are the most important plant component to allow the lily to come back next year and flower even more than the year before. So, keep those leaves green and healthy all the rest of the summer and fall so they can help to store up food reserves for the winter and next year’s growth and flowering.”

The practice of deadheading the spent flowers (but leaving the foliage as long as it is green) enables the plants to put energy into the bulb. Once the foliage dies back in late fall of early winter, you can cut down the dead stalks.

Bulbs, Lilium (Lily family)

Dividing and transplanting lilies

I have a question about what is the best time of year to transplant and
divide Asiatic lily bulbs? Is it fairly easy to identify where the bulb
should be divided? Also, someone told me to use a rooting solution on the
divided bulbs. Is this necessary? Is late October too late in the fall to divide
them?

Most sources say to divide lilies in the fall. You do not need to use a
rooting solution on the divided bulbs. Sunset’s Western Garden Book
(2001) says the following: “If clumps become too large and crowded, dig,
divide and transplant them in spring or fall. If you’re careful, you can
lift lily clumps at any time, even when they are in bloom.”

One rationale for lifting them when in bloom is provided in an article
from the Wisconsin Regional Lily Society, no longer available online, but excerpted here:

“After three successive years of making this futile pact, I finally
concluded that books were wrong! Fall isn’t the time to transplant
lilies. It’s a job best done in mid-summer when they’re in full bloom.
This eliminates most of the guess work, since at this point, the plants
are at their maximum height, making it nearly impossible to make the
mistake of planting the tall ones to the front of the border, the short
ones at the back. It also affords a crystal-clear picture of concurrent
bloomers. In fall, no matter how carefully one does the job, when digging
dormant bulbs at least one bold orange always manages to get itself
placed directly beside the brightest pink. The clashing colors burn
themselves into your retinas nearly as well as flashbulbs-blink quickly
and the image reappears!

“The maximum size of the plants in mid-summer is another advantage. When
autumnal plants have shrunk to a mere fraction of their former selves,
it’s too easy to misjudge your space placement. Who hasn’t heard the
disheartening ‘crunch’ of a spade slicing through the most expensive bulb
in the bed? How it knows the price, I’ll never know.

“Spring is the only time I’d actually refrain from moving lilies. The
delicate new shoot is easily broken, and once gone, the poor bulb has
only two options: It will either die or spend an entire year below
ground, depleting its energy reserves as it forms a new shoot for the
following spring. All the while it’s caught in a perilous game of Russian
roulette. Without aboveground parts to warn of its existence, it can
never quite be sure when a spade might suddenly come slicing down.
Crunch! -The second most expensive bulb gone?

“Certainly no plant will be thrilled at being dug up and moved in full
flower, but if it’s kept well watered and blooms are removed, almost any
perennial will have recovered fully by the following season. One of the
best gardeners I know says that the best time to move any perennial is
when you have the time!”

Bulbs, Lilium (Lily family), Vegetative propagation

frost and bulb foliage

Do the many bulbs that are rising up to 8″ out of the ground need to be covered since the forecast has temperatures down to 17 degrees F these next few mornings?

The bulb foliage should be fine as it is. Any flowers, on the other hand will probably turn to mush. If you’re feeling protective or nervous you may want to cover up the foliage with burlap, cloth rags, sheets, etc. Once the clouds come back you can remove the protection.

Here is an article on predicting frost from Michigan State University.

bulb care after bloom

Bulbs in pots – when to plant?

Daffodils & tulips wilting in pots now, what to do with them? Can you put them in the ground right now, or should you wait till fall? Keep them dry, wet, what?

Yes, you can put them in the ground right now or you can lift them, keep them dry and plant them in the fall. Growing in pots is stressful to bulbs, so you may find fewer flowers next year.

Most tulips do not flower reliably each year, even if they were grown in the ground, so many people treat them as annuals (dig up and toss!) BUT some tulips do re-flower (Darwin Hybrids, Fosterianas and species tulips) so if you are not sure what you have, go ahead and replant. Both tulips and daffodils dislike summer water, so make sure you either plant them in a place where they will stay dry or make sure they are planted in really well-drained soil. Mixing gravel into the soil can help with drainage.

on protecting bulbs from wildlife

I am trying to plant some bulbs but they are being disturbed and eaten by the squirrels. Do you have any tips and tricks to protect my bulbs from being snacked on?

Here is a 2009 article by Sally Ferguson in the online archive of BC Living magazine on preventing squirrel snacking:

Excerpt:
Q. How do I keep squirrels from digging up bulbs?

A. Squirrels can be terrible pests! They won’t bother daffodils and other narcissi bulbs (which taste terrible to them!), but they find tulips and crocus in particular to be worth the effort to sniff out and dig up.

The only sure-fire way to protect tulips and crocuses and other tasty bulb treats from squirrels is to lay wire mesh such as chicken wire on top of the bed. The squirrels can’t dig through the mesh and the flowers will grow neatly through the holes.

Bulbs are most vulnerable in fall immediately after planting when the soil is still soft and worked up. Digging then is easy! Squirrels often “chance” upon bulbs when burying their nuts in soft ground. Or they are attracted by “planting debris” such as bits of papery bulb tunics and other bulb-scented bits from the bulb bags. Don’t advertise your plantings: clean up and keep those squirrels guessing!

Here’s one neat trick that garden writer Judy Glattstein has found to work: after planting new areas, lay old window screens in frames on the ground, covering the newly-worked up soil. The screen weighs enough to
foil the squirrel, but allows for air circulation and rainfall. Once the ground has settled, remove the screens and store for future use.

Another remedy that some find successful is to feed the squirrels during the fall and winter. The theory is that the local squirrel population, when offered a handy plate of peanuts or other easy-to-get treats will leave your bulbs alone. At the White House, the gardeners put up six peanut-filled feeding boxes to satiate the furry denizens there — and reduced squirrel damage on bulb beds by 95 percent!

Many gardeners claim success with commercial repellents, but these are often sticky and unpleasant to deal with, or wash away in the rain.

Home remedies include sowing cayenne pepper into the soil or on the bulbs before planting and scattering moth ball flakes on the ground. You will find advocates and detractors of both methods. A favorite Dutch remedy is
to interplant Fritillaria imperialis. This tall dramatic plant gives off an odor that squirrels (and deer too, reportedly) find repellent. There is a book on the subject, Outwitting Squirrels, by Bill Adler, Jr. (1988 Chicago Review Press, Chicago, IL). It’s aimed at owners of bird feeders, but you may find some helpful hints.

on planting oriental lily bulbs

I was recently given 6 Oriental lily (Lilium) bulbs – bare root. It seems much too cold (late February) to put these in the ground. They are currently naked in the garage, but would it be better to pot them until the ground is workable? I have not raised lilies before, other than daylilies.

Generally, it is good to plant bulbs soon after you get them, but if you need to wait (due to cold weather and unworkable soil), keep the bulbs somewhere cool, and keep them “in moist sand or peat moss until scales plump up and new roots begin to sprout” (Sunset Western Garden Book, edited by Kathleen Norris Brenzel, 2001).

The Gardener’s Guide to Growing Lilies by Michael Jefferson-Brown and Harris Howland (Timber Press, 1995) confirms your thought that it is too cold to plant them out in the garden (I would wait until the threat of freezing temperatures subsides). According to the resource mentioned above, your lilies will do very well in pots, so what you could do is pot them now, and if you decide you would like to move them into the garden when it warms up, you could either put them, pot and all, into the border, or gently remove them from the pot without too much root disturbance, and plant them in the soil.

on pruning flowering bulbs

This is my first year planting spring flowering bulbs, which
grew nicely. I cut the dead flower and the stalk once it died back, and now the
foliage is yellow. What am I supposed to do with the yellow foliage? Pull it out? Cut it off? Just leave it alone? Also, will
planting some annual petunias now hurt the bulbs I have planted in the
garden? How close can I plant the petunia to the bulbs? I was going to
try and hide the yellow foliage.

The answer will depend on which bulbs you were growing. For example,
daffodil stems should not be cut back until at least 6 weeks after the
flowers have faded, and you should never tie the foliage in knots or
braid it (this is a common but ill-advised habit). You can leave
daffodils in the ground to naturalize and spread.

With tulips, you also need to wait at least 6 weeks from the fading of
the flowers before cutting back the leaves.

With hyacinths, you can pull away dead foliage and flower stems as they
fade. When the top growth has died down, you can either leave them in the
ground or dig up the bulbs, dry them off, and store them for replanting.

If you are growing iris, you can cut the dead flower stems to the base,
and cut away dead leaves in the summer. If they are bearded iris, the
fan of leaves may be cut back in the fall to about 8 inches above the
base.

(Source: The Plant Care Manual by Stefan Buczacki, Crown Publishers,
1993)

You can certainly plant your annual petunias quite close to bulbs like
daffodils and tulips and other bulbous plants which are quite vertical.
Just don’t plant right on top of the bulbs. To disguise dying bulb foliage, use perennial ground cover plants that keep their leaves over the winter, and that have stems soft enough for bulbs to emerge through them. Hardy geraniums (true geraniums, also called cranesbill) and creeping veronica, such as Veronica peduncularis ‘Georgia Blue,’ are good choices. You can remove dried leaves as needed, and they can be tidied or groomed in early spring.