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What’s an Amarine?

What’s an Amarine and should I grow it? Also, when do you plant the bulbs?

 

x Amarine is a cross of the South African bulb Nerine and Amaryllis belladonna (Naked Ladies). According to the Pacific Bulb Society, the plants have larger flowers than Nerine. The cross was developed in the Netherlands in 1940, according to this article by Graham Duncan of Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden in South Africa.

This British commercial gardening site says that x Amarine improves upon Nerine’s reluctant and unpredictable blooming habits. x Amarine keeps its foliage while it is blooming. Nerine, on the other hand, produces foliage in the spring and flowers when the foliage dies back in autumn.

In his article on Belles of the Autumn Border, Graham Rice says that × Amarine tubergenii is in between its parents in flower numbers and flower size. For a Pacific Northwest perspective on growing Nerine (and its cousins), you may find Susan Calhoun’s article in Fine Gardening useful. As far as when to plant these fall-flowering bulbs in the Northwest, we suggest doing it in May when all danger of frost is long past.

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Aquatic plants as mulch?

I noticed a Seattle P-Patch garden that was using milfoil from Lake Washington as a mulch in the vegetable beds. That made me wonder about using other aquatic plants as mulch, such as seaweed. Would this be beneficial to the plants? Or would it add salt to the soil and cause problems?

 

Milfoil (Eurasian watermilfoil, or Myriophyllum spicatum) is a Class B noxious weed in Washington State, and it is on the quarantine list. I am not sure whether moving milfoil dredged from the lake into a garden as mulch violates the quarantine’s prohibition on ‘transport of plants,’ but presumably it had died back before being spread on the beds. When the plants decay, they do impart nutrients (potentially beneficial to the soil, but a detriment to the lake because they cause algae growth), but Lake Washington is not a pristine body of water, and I would be somewhat concerned about pollutants.

As for using seaweed as mulch in the garden, the book Seaweeds: Edible, Available & Sustainable by Ole Mouritsen (University of Chicago Press, 2013) notes that seaweed has been used as fertilizer for centuries in coastal regions. “In France and on Iceland, this practice goes back at least as far as the 14th century.” In Scotland and Ireland particularly, scraps of seaweed that wash ashore have been added to soil to form raised beds for potatoes and other crops. Such beds hold moisture well, but there is a concern about soil salinity (harmful to earthworms and some plants) and pollutants from contaminated water, so it is best to wash the seaweed in rainwater before use. Plants that were originally shore plants, like asparagus, cabbage, and celery are more salt-tolerant.

There is an enlightening discussion on the University of British Columbia Botanical Garden forum about using seaweed in the garden. A biologist urges rinsing the seaweed at the beach to free any creatures that might be attached to it. Even desiccated seaweed higher up on the beach harbors living things that will not survive if you unwittingly transport them with the plants you are collecting. Additionally, there may be seeds and roots of other plants you might not want to introduce into your garden.

It Is worth noting that you must have a license to harvest seaweed from Washington beaches; it is not permitted everywhere, and where it is allowed there is a ten-pound wet-weight limit. There are specific guidelines on what tools to use, and how to leave behind the base of the plant so it can continue to flourish. Be mindful that seaweed is an integral part of a complex ecosystem, and you do not want to disrupt habitat and food sources when gathering plants to use as mulch. Also heed any notices posted about pollutants that may have been released in the water where you are harvesting.

All of this being said, it does not make much sense to collect seaweed for mulch unless it is ‘in your own backyard,’ that is to say, you live near the beach. There are more sustainable mulch options (feed a compost pile with materials already in your garden, and use that as mulch; obtain free wood chips from a local arborist) that do not come with so many environmental factors to consider.

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Plants for seaside gardening

I need plant suggestions for growing in cold, salty winds only 15 to 20 feet from the high water mark of the Georgia Straits. In winter, the salt water from the ocean occasionally douses the area where I will be gardening. I’m particularly interested in perennials and small shrubs.

 

I found a list from Island County, WA (no longer available online) with revisions added for Bay Area gardeners.

Excerpts:
“Some of the better salt-tolerant shrubs and small trees to consider include Salal (Gautheria shallon), Ocean Spray (Holodiscus discolor), Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus), Elderberry (Sambucus species), Tall Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium), Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia), Nootka Rose (Rosa nutkana), and the Wax Myrtle (Myrica [now called Morella] californica).

There are a variety of native plants that are commonly found near the shoreline, and which typically do well in the Puget Sound area. These include the sword fern (Polystichum munitum), Bracken fern (Pteridium aquilinum), Fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium), Coastal lupine (Lupinus littoralis), Honeysuckle (Lonicera species), and Coastal strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis).”

Washington Native Plant Society also has a list of plants for a saltwater setting.

I recently answered a question about salt-tolerant grasses which may be helpful to you as well.

The book cited in the answer above, Frances Tenenbaum’s Gardening at the Shore, also lists shrubs and perennials. Below are those which might work in zone 8 or lower, and which are smaller than 20 feet.
Shrubs:

  • Acca (also called Feijoa) sellowiana (8-12 feet)
  • Amelanchier (small tree/large shrub)
  • Arbutus (there are some smaller species than the familiar Pacific madrone)
  • Arctostaphylos patula (6 feet)
  • Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (ground cover)
  • Atriplex canescens (3-5 feet)
  • Baccharis halimifolia (6-10 feet)
  • Calluna vulgaris (from 6 inches to 2 feet)
  • Caryopteris x clandonensis (2-3 feet)
  • Ceanothus (many varieties of different sizes, from ground cover to 20 feet)
  • Chamaecyparis lawsoniana (look for a dwarf variety of this tree)
  • Clethra alnifolia (8 feet)
  • Gaultheria shallon (ground cover)
  • Hydrangea macrophylla (6-8 feet)
  • Juniperus virginiana (look for creeping juniper cultivars like ‘Bar Harbor’ and ‘Blue Rug’ which are salt-tolerant)
  • Picea glauca (look for dwarf cultivars like ‘Arneson’s Blue’)
  • Rhus typhina
  • Rosa rugosa
  • Rosmarinus officinalis
  • Syringa vulgaris
  • Vaccinium corymbosum (highbush blueberry)
  • Viburnum (numerous species of different sizes)

Perennials:

  • Achillea
  • Armeria maritima
  • Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’
  • Artemisia schmidtiana
  • Asclepias tuberosa
  • Baptisia australis
  • Echinacea purpurea
  • Hemerocallis ‘Stella d’Oro’
  • Nepeta x faassenii and Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’
  • Perovskia atriplicifolia [now renamed Salvia yangii]
  • Platycodon grandiflorus
  • Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’
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Pruning apple trees

We have an apple tree in our back yard. Last year it produced more apples then we knew what to do with. We pruned it after last season and then this year was an off year and we only had a few apples. My question is do we need to prune it every year or only after a very productive year? We are very new at this so any pruning tips you have would be great as well!!

 

Many factors may have affected the fruit production on your apple tree, but the general rules on pruning are to prune young trees very lightly, and old trees more heavily, particularly if they have shown little growth.

Pruning is usually done when the tree is dormant (i.e., winter), but sometimes apples are pruned during the summer growing season (the main reasons to do this would be to improve fruit quality and quantity, to regulate growth and control vigor, and to reduce pest and disease problems). An excellent resource we have here is Training and Pruning Apple and Pear Trees by C.G. Forshey, American Society for Horticultural Science, c1992. Another thing to consider is whether your tree is a dwarf, semi-dwarf, or standard apple tree. Pruning differs for each of these.

The following factsheet gives basic guidelines for pruning fruit-bearing trees:

Pruning Apple and Pear Trees from Clemson University Extension

Below are useful webpages about pruning fruit trees, and apples in particular:

Pruning Tree Fruit from WSU Extension

Spring and summer pruning for apples from Oregon State University

We have many great books on this subject in the library if you need additional guidance.

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Information on garden designers

Where can I get information about garden designers? I am more interested in designers than landscape architects.

 

Some sources of information and contacts for garden design are

Plant Amnesty’s Referral Service

Association of Professional Landscape Designers (look for APLD Chapters and then choose from the list of states/regions)

Edmonds Community College graduates in Horticulture are sometimes featured on the program’s Home page when they start businesses. You might also contact the department and see if they have information about garden designers.

Loquat trees in the Puget Sound

Will loquat trees grow here in the Puget Sound, and which varieties are best?

 

In his book Trees of Seattle (2006), local author Arthur Lee Jacobson lists a small number of loquats growing in Seattle, all of them young trees. On his website, he at least mentions the potential for fruit if the winter flowers are not killed by frost. The book From Tree to Table: Growing Backyard Fruit Trees in the Pacific Maritime Climate (Barbara Edwards, Skipstone Press, 2011) says that loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) will grow well here as an ornamental tree, but it is extremely rare for it to produce fruit in USDA hardiness zones 8a and 8b (Puget Sound). (In warmer areas–zone 9 and 10–these are some of the recommended varieties: Gold Nugget; Champagne; McBeth; Big Jim.)

The website of California Rare Fruit Growers provides general information on growing loquat.

Packing plants for shipment

What do I have to do to ship a plant via the United States Postal Service? How do I prepare a plant for mailing? I want to mail a one gallon plant.

 

When sending your one gallon plant, you should mark the box Fragile and Living Plant Material. You should also use the fastest shipping method you can afford, to make sure the plant reaches its destination in good condition. You might also phone your local post office to learn whether there are any other regulations concerning mailing live plants. The U.S. Postal Service provides these basic guidelines for packaging perishable plant matter. Another matter to consider is whether plant quarantine regulations apply to the plant you are shipping, and whether or not you need a permit.

FedEx has a guide has a guide entitled Packaging Guidelines for Flowers and Plants which should help you.

In terms of packing the plant, you should also ensure that the plant does not move around in its box during transport. Avent (see the source below) recommends securing the pot to the side of the box, with strapping or similar material. You may also want to protect the vegetation with breathable material–perhaps biodegradable starch-based packing peanuts?

Source: So You Want to Start a Nursery, T. Avent, 2003, pp. 75-78

Luzula purpureosplendens

I am looking for information on Luzula purpureosplendens, and all I can find is very general information on the genus Luzula.

 

Luzula purpureosplendens is endemic to Azores islands, which may be why there is so little information about the species. Another reason it may be hard to find information is that it has synonymous names, according to en.hortipedia.com, and these are Luzula azorica and Luzula purpurea. If you search either of the synonyms on the web, you will get some results, many quite technical (chromosomal studies).

Management of an educational greenhouse

We are currently making plans to construct a Plant Science Laboratory at our school, a community college in Seattle. The plans are to have a two greenhouses, gutter connected and providing about 1,800 square feet of space. It will be constructed on a 10,000 square feet of property near the school.

I am wondering if there are any publications that discuss the management of an educational greenhouse at the CUH library. Also, are there any newsletters, websites or other materials you are able to recommend?

 

The bulk of our books on greenhouses focus on either commercial growing or home hobbyist. We have some back issues of the journal GM Pro, also known as Greenhouse Management and Production, which has a commercial focus.

I searched the Garden Literature Index (of journals) and didn’t find anything too promising on actual management. I recommend you try talking with some of your colleagues at the local colleges that have horticulture programs:

Edmonds Community College

South Seattle College

Lake Washington Institute of Technology

And here is a link to a college in Ontario, Canada – Niagara College – that is doing something similar to what you describe.

Siberian iris care in winter

Do I leave my Siberian iris alone through the winter, then cut them back in the spring when new growth starts to show, as I’ve done in the past, or do I cut them back now? My neighbor has had hers cut back for months now and insists her way is best…

 

According to the book The Siberian Iris, by Currier McEwen, 1996, you should
“allow leaves to remain on the plants as long as they are green and adding energy to the plant through photosynthesis. When they turn brown in the fall, cut them off as low as possible and burn them.* It is risky to add them to the compost pile, as they may carry fungal spores, insect eggs, and other disease agents.

*Or put them in your trash (in a sealed bag).

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